Have the valve cover off and several of the rocker arms are slightly loose and can be wiggled back and forth. Anybody know what the center bolt should be torqued to? This is a 2006 Ranger 3.0 V6.

Also, is it just me or do these rockers seem askew? Will edit to post pic shortly.

 

You need to rotate the engine manually when you first install the rockers to set each Fulcrum bolt to 10ft/lbs

But if all the rockers are in place already then each should be tightened to 26ft/lb, crank/cam position doesn't matter
But I would rotate crank one full turn and check each again

Once all are at spec, a good test is to try and spin the push rod of a closed valve with your fingers, should turn but be very hard to turn
If its loose then probably a collapsed lifter(broke spring inside lifter)

 

Thanks Ron! Are my rockers at the right angle? They don't look right to me... shouldn't they all be at the same angle and plane?

You may recall I'm getting a misfire in cylinder 5. When I removed the PCV tube, it was very dirty and oily. I suspect that aint right.

 

Okay, so the center bolts are already torqued to 26 ft/lbs but I can wiggle the rocker arms from side to side about a 1/16 inch. Is there supposed to be that much play?

 

Oil vapor in the engine is caused by Blow-by
Blow-by is the exhaust gases that blow by the piston and rings when a cylinder fires
The piston sides and cylinder walls are coated in oil
The HOT gases vaporize some of the oil

As the miles go up so does the Blow-by and so does the amount of oil vapor in the engine

PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system was added specifically to deal with Blow-by, prior to PCV there was just a vent tube in lower block or upper oil pan that allow Blow-by to be vented to the outside air, and the oil vapor, lol

The "Positive" in PCV means blow-by is being dealt with, its not about pressure, PCV actually applies negative pressure to engine area, but Negative Crankcase Ventilation doesn't sound as good, lol

Because there are open drain holes from valve area to crankcase the crankcase and valve cover areas are connected, and the blow-by/oil vapor is HOT, and "hot" rises, so it goes to valve cover area

The PCV Valve sucks in the blow-by to be re-burned in the engine and with it some oil vapor
As the engine gets older there will be more oil vapor so the PCV system will need to be cleaned more often and PCV valve replaced more often if it can't be easily cleaned
(also cheaper oil vaporizes easier, so........)

Some add a Catch Can if the oil vapor gets to be too much and causes running issues, coating of oil inside the intake
Catch Can is used to Condense the oil vapor inside "a can" that can be emptied as needed

 

Alright... what's the trick with installing new injectors? I can't get the O ring to seat in the fuel rail! I've used some oil and pushing/twisting and it won't go down all the way. Probably a stupid question but can I put pressure on the head of the injector?

 

Bump. Why are these bloody things so hard to seat and install? Anybody have any tips? I used syl-gide and still no go.

 

Did the old o-rings all come out?

You should put the new o-ring on the end of the injector and just push injector down into the hole

There can be a pintle cover on a new injector that needs to be removed before installing, the pintle cap stays, it has a hole in it

 

Yes, the old O ring did come out and the new injectors are OEM with O rings already on. No cap.

So here's dumb question... I can get the injector in the fuel rail just a tad, so it pops in, but inside in the fuel rail there is a narrower lip that (I assume) the O ring needs to get beyond. Am I overthinking this? The injector seems VERY loose compared to the other injectors I did not remove, which make kind of a squeeky sound when I twist them. Are they just swolen for some reason??

Think I'm an idiot... :) Are the O rings supposed to be IN FRONT OF and not behind the narrower flange in the fuel rail? If so, the new one seems awfully loose.

 

YUP, I AM AN IDIOT.

 

Okay, put it all back to together and now there's a clicking sound after the engine shuts off. Clicks for like 15 seconds then stops. Ugh.

 

Not an engine noise of course

EVAP relay maybe, so purge valve if noise is in the engine bay
Cooling fan, spin it manually after engine is off
Long shot would be Blower/heater fan, has a leaf in it and you hear that as fan slows down with key off, leave fan OFF and see if noise goes away

 

It seems to be coming from the intake, where the plenum meets. I used the scope and I can hear it right right there through the plenum. I used new gaskets. Only clicks for like 5-10 seconds then gets fainter and disappears.