Water in #2 cylinder, need Help Please! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 09-08-2013
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Water in #2 cylinder, need Help Please!

I want to start by saying I have performed many internet searches looking for the answer to this question. I have found a lot of good information but nothing that is specific to my problem. I hope someone reading this can help me out. I have a 2005 Ranger XLT 3.0L that will not start. It tries but just can't. So anyway here is where I'm at. I reached a point that I thought it was a blown head gasket. No antifreeze in the oil, unable to test whether the antifreeze will blow out of the radiator, and unable to do a compression check on the cylinders. Ok, here is why. I removed the radiator because it was leaking. I found the leak after doing a flush. I also have all the plug wires and plugs out. The plastic air intake has been removed revealing the holes that go into the head cover. That is how I found moisture or water in cylinder #2. Now if it had been antifreeze I would have thought for sure it was the head gasket but remember I just did the flush and ran into the leak before I put antifreeze back in it. I talked with a mechanic and he suggested that I may have a crack in the plastic air intake. So I'm not sure where to go from here. Do I put it all back together so I can do the checks? I have tried to get all the water out of cylinder #2 by turning over the motor and forcing the piston to push it out. I did see good amount of rust colored water come out of only #2. I do realize I might have a burn out in the head gasket between cylinders but, is it really possible it may be as simple as a crack in the plastic air intake? I was thinking if I did put the plastic air intake back on and I got it started that wouldn't tell me if there was a crack. I do know I could check for a vacuum leak with something like starting fluid or carb. cleaner. The problem there thought is I haven't put the radiator back in yet so I couldn't run it long. I figured I would leave it out because it gives me more area to work if I do have to get into the motor. Is it possible to have the plastic air intake checked for leaks? I'm stuck at where to go from here. I need help with this one. Can anyone give me some advise?

Last edited by pellis10asee; 09-08-2013 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 09-11-2013
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Well I guess I must have posted this in the wrong spot or something. I'm not getting any response if some one can let me know if there is a better way to post things please help, I'm new to the forum and not quite sure how to use it yet. I did get into working on the motor though. I've removed one head and as I suspected there was a lot of water in #2 also in #1 and #3. I'm not sure what to do here but there is rust on the cylinder walls of all three. Is there any good way to clean this up without doing any damage? Hope someone can help me.
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Old 09-16-2013
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Hello there

From experience these motors have issues with the head gasket if you have rust in the cylinders that usually means that water has been in that cylinder for a while. To be certain you need to do a compression test and a cooling system test since you have it taken apart you need to install the parts you removed and do the tests it can be the plastic intake where it meets the cylinder head and or the intake gasket could of failed on that cylinder which would be the cheapest to fix do the test and report your findings.
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Old 09-16-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordtech View Post
Hello there

From experience these motors have issues with the head gasket if you have rust in the cylinders that usually means that water has been in that cylinder for a while. To be certain you need to do a compression test and a cooling system test since you have it taken apart you need to install the parts you removed and do the tests it can be the plastic intake where it meets the cylinder head and or the intake gasket could of failed on that cylinder which would be the cheapest to fix do the test and report your findings.
Hey, thanks for the reply. I have already replaced the head gaskets and a few other gaskets. I've put everything back together and it still will not start. I have checked the CSP sensor and it's good. I put new plugs, plug wires and a coil pack in it and still no start. The fuel pump is new I just put that in a few months back and so I'm almost positive that it's getting fuel and spark. I have even tried starter fluid with no success on starting. Today I went out and bought a code reader to see if there are any codes. I am really starting to think that it may have jumped timing. I have not done a compression check yet and I'm not really sure if I should do that before I go into checking the timing belt or chain. I did put my finger over every spark plug hole and could feel pressure coming out when turning over the engine. I have no clue as where or what to check now. I did replace the Idle Air Control before the truck died on me while I was driving it. When I removed the old IAC, I could see where a chunk of the plunger or valve portion was broken off and missing. I'm not sure where that piece could be now and I am hoping that is not what caused it to die on me while I was driving it. What should I do next, do you have any ideas?
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Old 09-16-2013
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theres also a crankshaft sensor if either the crankshaft or camshalf sensor goes out the truck wont start
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Old 09-16-2013
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I've checked the crank shaft sensor and it's good but I did not check the cam sensor. It looked complicated to me. Should I check that before checking the timing? Also is it easier then I'm thinking?
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Old 09-17-2013
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how did you check the crankshaft sensor ? the camshaft sensor is at the back of the motor if you remove it you should be able to see if the brushes are still intact on the sensor
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Old 09-17-2013
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I have a 2005 Ranger XLT, 3.0L On this motor both the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are the magnetic 2 wire type. I did a resistance test on the crankshaft sensor but after doing it I did some more research and it says that to test correctly you must check it while the motor is running or cranking. However I am getting spark so it should be good. I don't believe there are any brushes in the camshaft sensor. I removed it last night and looked it over. It is a sealed magnetic sensor. I'm going out to check it right now. I'm going to crank the motor and test it with a multi meter.
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Old 09-17-2013
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Well I've checked both the Cam and Crank sensors with a multi meter. Both sensors had a reading of .59 or .60 in a resistance check. The Crank sensor, connected on the motor while cranking had a reading of 1.0 and 1.3 in AC mode. I believe that is where it should be and I'm getting spark, therefore; Crank sensor is working. I also checked the Cam sensor in the same manner but the reading was only between 0.0 and 0.1 I do believe this is an indication of a bad Cam sensor or not receiving signal back from the PCM. Does anyone know if that is correct and could that be the cause of a no start even if I'm getting spark?
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Old 09-23-2013
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well I did a compression check of all the cylinders. This is what I came up with. #1-49psi #2-70psi #3-125psi #4-81psi #5-39psi #6-58psi. Now I don't know what the compression is suppose to be in the cylinders but I have a good hunch that it should be around the 125psi number or higher. I guess that is the reason it will not start. I guess that I did not do the head gaskets properly. I really didn't check to see if the heads were warped either. Anyone else have an idea of what the problem might be? I'm heading back out to the garage to start the tear down again. I guess I'll have to check the heads for any warping.
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Old 10-02-2013
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Cracked Warped Heads and the beginnings of a Crack.

Yes sir I'm sure you've heard the phrase Stupid tax right? Well I just paid my fair share. I ended up taking the heads into a machine shop and I had a cracked head and the other side had some major warping going on with the beginnings of a crack starting. So I got a pair of heads with new gaskets and bolts and proceeded to go to work on it. I'm just now heading to bed after a long day at work and then wrenching on the old Ranger. I should have it all back together tomorrow some time. I can really feel the difference in the compression while turning the crank shaft to adjust the rockers for reinstallation. What a big difference a little crack can make. Anyway I will keep ya'll posted on how easy it starts up when I've got this lesson recorded in the Stupid Tax books. Thanks for all the insight. Peace Oh wait I am the stupid one.
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Old 10-03-2013
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Sounds like this engine was severely overheated are you sure the block is still flat?
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