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I have a 2001 Mazda b-4000 with the 4.0 v6 sohc engine, and a lot of people I know say the engines always self destruct because of the timing chain and some kind of issues with the guides or something. I was told and also read on one of these forums that doing frequent oil changes helps prevent it, I already did my oil changes every 3,000 miles anyways so I’m probably fine in that regard. If I took the truck into ford or Mazda for a new timing chain (not that mine shows any signs of needing replacing) would they replace the guides with better ones that don’t wear as badly and cause the chain to mess up? Cause from my understand late 2003 - 2004 and up 4.0 sohc engines don’t have this issue cause ford fixed the probably by making the guides out of a less soft material? So would the dealer be able to upgrade my engine with the better guides to prevent the chain from breaking in the future? Just trying to prevent having my engine Grenade itself because of this as I’d rather not have to buy a new engine for it. The whole truck runs great without any issues and is in mint shape inside and out so I’d like to hold onto it as long as I can before needing a new engine. It currently has 147k on it with the original chain and corresponding parts like pulleys, guides, etc.
You got a bit of bad info on why that engine had the problem
Yes, the 1997 to 2003 4.0l SOHC engines did have timing chain issues, but it was the Long Chain tensioners, that were the problem, not the guides or chains
There are two tensioners that can be changed BEFORE you have a rattling noise, the rattling noise means a tensioner has failed and chain has broken the guide so new tensioner can't help at that time.
The tensioners use oil pressure, but also have a strong spring inside for Start Up before there is oil pressure, this spring is what broke, so no tension on start up, and chain could bang on guide, over time, broken guide
These tensioners are not hard to change, and, IMO, should be changed on any year 4.0l SOHC every 70k-90k miles or so
Rear tensioner can be changed in under an hour, you go thru the passenger side wheel well
Front tensioner requires some disassembly on the top front of the engine, but not that much, maybe 2 hours
Several videos out there
I would use Motorcraft tensioners only, but up to you
Why did it take Ford 6 years to fix the problem?
Because it doesn't happen to every 4.0l SOHC tensioner and because some of the failures were NON-MAINTAINED engines, i.e. no oil changes so...................
Ford Service departments finally saw enough failures on MAINTAINED engines that they knew a design problem was there, but what...............
Yes, they did think maybe guides were weak, or getting brittle from the heat.
But after getting enough of the old tensioners back to look at, they found a common problem
That makes me feel better about it then, I read somewhere that the engine HAS to be removed to change the rear tensioners or chain, but you can just go through the wheel well? That would certainly make it much easier to do. I run synthetic blend and change every 3k since I got the truck so hopefully that really helps with the life of the tensioners till I can afford to have them changed. I do not know what life it lived before I got it or how the previous owners maintained it in terms of oil changes and such. Again, no noises or concerning sounds right now. So I suppose I’ll look into getting all that work done at some point in the future. Hopefully before mine has any issues. I really wish these weren’t interference engines so that if it did break then the engine wouldn’t nuke itself :( but we’ll see. Thanks for the reassuring news though, makes me feel a bit better about it, knowing that if I maintain it well (as I do all my cars) that it should last long while.
The neutral position for the Cams(where cam would stop if chain broke) won't cause valves to hit pistons, so its very rare to get bent valves in this engine, but rare is not never, lol, so it can happen
Well. As I said, it currently has 147k in it, and I imagine it’s the timing chain and corresponding hardware. Should I look into changing it sooner then later even if there isn’t a current issue?
also, but if the neutral position is at a point where valves won’t get struck, then wouldn’t that make this a non-interference engine? Or am I missing something?
As of this 2020 writing, I am just dumb lucky, not having had any TimingChain component failure with this 20Year old V6-4.0L~SOHC engine; the only item noticed is momentary rattling with very cold morning starts. The recent removal of the lower pan & pumps screen was clean without any TimingGuide pieces or other surprises found in the Pan\Screen\Girdle. In 2010, after first becoming aware of the notorious Tensioners+Guides in this engine, I had a trusted mechanic install new Oil Pressurized TimingTensioners, followed by an Oil Flush+Change; I have since used lighter 0w30\0w20~FullSyn oil. Now the engine is 100kMiles+10Years older & is\was overdue for new OilPressurized Tensioners; both myself & vehicle have retired from daily commutes, & it's assigned to snow plow duty or the occasional substitute for the car, thus wife assigned me this maintenance chore, as described below. Hope this helps someone else. My writeup & more info at Engine Oil Pressurized TimingTensioners
Tools used included 1/2" Drive Ratchet, 20" Extension, 1i063=27mm 12pt Wrench.
And Modified 27mm 12pt DeepSocket, ground short+narrow to fit Left Tensioner & to clear Manifold:
Left Tensioner Old (2010, Crunchy+Gritty+Stiff) vs New (2020). CarbThrottle spray made old feel new.
Install 1stTry with new Washer wOut Teflon @49FtLb = Oil Leak @SeatScar.
Install 2ndTry with Washer Teflon Wrap @60FtLb = No Leak.
Left Tensioner Removal+Install requires TStat Upper Hoses+Sensors removed & Modified Socket to clear Manifold.
OilPipe Reducer @LowerLeft, OilInlet Landed @UpperLeft.
Install 1stTry with new Washer wOut Teflon @49FtLb = Oil Leak @SeatScar.
Install 2ndTry with Washer Teflon Wrap @60FtLb = No Leak.
Left OilPipe Reducer\Restrictor: removed PipePlug with 30Torx Ratchet, removed ReducerRod with Tweezers.
CarbThrottle spray cleaned & reinstalled, resealed plug with RTV lite smear.
Right Tensioner Dimensions:
Right Tensioner Old (2010, Crunchy+Gritty+Stiff) vs New (2020). CarbThrottle spray made old feel new.
Install 1stTry with new Washer wOut Teflon @49FtLb = No Leak.
Right Tensioner Removal+Install requires hole drilled in wheel well Skirt for 20" Drive Extension.
OilPipe Supply @LowerRight, OilInlet Landed @UpperLeft.
Install 1stTry with new Washer wOut Teflon @49FtLb = No Leak.
Last edited by DILLARD000; 08-08-2020 at 07:44 AM.
PS\Update2020.0818:
Unable to directly edit\change post &
Tensioner Dimension drawings above showing 0m020*1.5 Threads,
they should be 0m022*1.5 Threads per correctd drawings below.
...cannot find the OEM Motorcraft timing chain tensioners
...have a 2000 XLT 4.0 4WD
...where to get them, or what the OEM part number is?
You've got a 2000 RangerXLT with a V6~4.0L~OverHeadValves\OHV Engine; this engine has no inherent issue with OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
The 2001+Later Ranger with the V6~4.0L~SingleOverHeadCams\SOHC Engine, have an inherent design flaw with the OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
Understand these are totally different engines, so ease your mind on this issue, assuming you really do have the 2000 model & the OHV Engine?
Take a closer look at your engine bay, the label in your drivers door frame, & your OwnersManual.
1990-2000 Rangers used the 4.0l OHV engine, no timing chain issues
2001-2011 Rangers used the 4.0l SOHC engine, timing chain issue thru 2003 model year
1997-2010 Explorer did have the 4.0l SOHC as an option, Rangers didn't have it until 2001 Model year
You've got a 2000 RangerXLT with a V6~4.0L~OverHeadValves\OHV Engine; this engine has no inherent issue with OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
The 2001+Later Ranger with the V6~4.0L~SingleOverHeadCams\SOHC Engine, have an inherent design flaw with the OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
Understand these are totally different engines, so ease your mind on this issue, assuming you really do have the 2000 model & the OHV Engine?
Take a closer look at your engine bay, the label in your drivers door frame, & your OwnersManual.
Originally Posted by RonD
Not dense, just have the wrong info
1990-2000 Rangers used the 4.0l OHV engine, no timing chain issues
2001-2011 Rangers used the 4.0l SOHC engine, timing chain issue thru 2003 model year
1997-2010 Explorer did have the 4.0l SOHC as an option, Rangers didn't have it until 2001 Model year
Ah…thank you for the replies…this is great to hear. I wasted basically a whole day worrying about my truck for no reason apparently, but at least I learned some new information along the way.
Yes - it’s a 2000 XLT 4.0. It was built in August of 1999 according to the sticker. I got it last year in beautiful condition and 119K miles. I don’t drive it a lot, but I definitely wanted to do all necessary preventative maintenance.
I’m running full synthetic Mobil 1, and Mobil 1 fuel filters, and I changed the air filter to a reusable K&N. I also took it to a trusted mechanic and had him check everything out when I got it. He found nothing wrong, except recommended removing a little surface rust (very minor) underneath.
Is there anything that I should be doing besides normal stuff with this engine, or this truck in general? I have to admit that this is my first ever truck at age 43, and while I’m loving it, I have always driven small Japanese sedans before this. I do take all my vehicles to this mechanic every 50k miles for radiator and transmission flushes, as well as power steering and brake fluid checks.
Obviously I’m not much of a gearhead, but I’ve wanted a cool truck for many years, and I’m stoked to finally have one.
EDIT: It looks like regularly cleaning the MAF sensor on these engines is a good idea. I think that even I can handle that.
Last edited by ( . )( . ); 01-13-2022 at 09:35 PM.
The Ranger 2001 4.0 SOHC was the one with the most timing chain problems. Ford must have made some kind of change for 2002, because they did not have near the frequency of problems.
I changed my tensioners at 100K miles as preventive maintenance. I compared the old ones to the new ones and the spring force felt the same. I then did a complete timing chain system rebuild at 250K miles and the long chain cam tensioners and guides were good. I will say the guides were kind of brittle because I broke one while taking it out. What I did find broken was the mechanical tensioner for the chain between the crank and jackshaft that drives the long chains. It was completely broken off and looked to be that way for a while. I was surprised I had not heard any rattling from that area.
Well guys I may not have the ranger but I do have the 4.0l sohc v6 with dreaded tensioners - So upon one lucky day ( insert sarcasm) i was revealing my lower oil pan and found some gifts my engine decided to present to me. Yep 200 dollars is about to jump out of my pocket - or maybe I could figure out how to do this without having to go broke .
Well Dad -god rest his soul, being of fords master tech class back in his day forced his son to think outside the box when ford repair was the issue.
23.89 to complete the timing issue and permanent solution to the tensioner nightmare
1. Ordered tensioner guide from amazon $15 bucks the little black plastic in oil pan let me know which one i needed , funny how everything is different color wonder if thats a setup, I digress.
oh yeah part came with seal kit.
2 home depot trip , this is where I spent the other 8.89 , 12" long 3/8-16 allthread stainless , 4 @3/8-16 hex nut , 3/8-16 tap and 5/16drill bit.
after making sure everything was TDC and replacement of internal tensioner guide , it was time to get out of the box and solve external tensioner problem,
center punched the cap of each, drilled 5/16 hole in said cap , blew out shavings and tapped each cap 3/8-16 , are you feeling it yet , proceed to make bolts with jam nut locking system and presto it worked.
now if you want to spend all that on ford service and parts by all means , but I'm here to say it , I don't for oil pressure and have zero fear of busted springs. And to Dad for all the years of screaming across the shop , you sir were right outside the box there is a couple solutions, and I hope wherever your soul landed you make them think outside of their box.
sweet that's awesome im glad im not the only person who remembers when stuff had to be done manually, now I wish I watched YouTube but I dont really like social media stuff , if my daughter hadn't talked me into it last year id still have no clue what Instagram is, and fully despise Facebook but I guess ill give a little bit and perhaps watch a few videos.
Yep, social media is much too "Politicly Correct" AKA in "LaLaLand" for my taste,
so avoid most of it, but do enjoy & appreciate the technical vids on YouTube.
06-01-2019
