4.0 Ranger questions! Possible buyer
#1
4.0 Ranger questions! Possible buyer
Hi there,
I am finding myself in need of a truck at this point of my life. Anywho I have found a nice lil ranger on 33's with a few things done like bumpers and stuff. It has the 5 speed tranny and is 4x4. it also has a lot of mileage on the body 120,000 miles but apearently has a new engine with only 40,000 miles.
Can you guys tell me what to look out for in these trucks?
Are these engines reliable? Known problems?
What are bad things about these trucks?
I have been a jeep owner for the last few years and have had a lot of problems with jeeps so I've grown to be decent mechanically.
I am finding myself in need of a truck at this point of my life. Anywho I have found a nice lil ranger on 33's with a few things done like bumpers and stuff. It has the 5 speed tranny and is 4x4. it also has a lot of mileage on the body 120,000 miles but apearently has a new engine with only 40,000 miles.
Can you guys tell me what to look out for in these trucks?
Are these engines reliable? Known problems?
What are bad things about these trucks?
I have been a jeep owner for the last few years and have had a lot of problems with jeeps so I've grown to be decent mechanically.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forums.
Ranger manual trans is very reliable.
Running gear lasts a long while, 300k
The 2001 to 2004 4.0l SOHC engine had bad timing chains sets, but if replaced then all is good.
If timing chain breaks then new engine is needed, find out what year the new engine is or if any work was done on it, before installing like new chains
4x4 transfer case is BW1354 so a good one, 2001 and up Rangers have "live axles", hubs are always locked, no option for unlock.
But they work fine that way.
Electric 4x4 shift motors do fail, also the 4WD control modules have had issues.
Shift into 4high and 4 low once a month, don't have to drive it that way just shifting it once a month keeps motor and shifting mechanisms working.
Ranger manual trans is very reliable.
Running gear lasts a long while, 300k
The 2001 to 2004 4.0l SOHC engine had bad timing chains sets, but if replaced then all is good.
If timing chain breaks then new engine is needed, find out what year the new engine is or if any work was done on it, before installing like new chains
4x4 transfer case is BW1354 so a good one, 2001 and up Rangers have "live axles", hubs are always locked, no option for unlock.
But they work fine that way.
Electric 4x4 shift motors do fail, also the 4WD control modules have had issues.
Shift into 4high and 4 low once a month, don't have to drive it that way just shifting it once a month keeps motor and shifting mechanisms working.
#3
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#5
That must be a FX4 Ranger. In 02 the manual shift transfer case only came in the FX4. They have a lot of upgrades over the standard 4X4 Ranger. The manual shift transfer case is not very common but works well in my experience with it. If the engine has been replaced it may have the updated timing chain cassettes. If not it may still be OK. I have over 194K miles on my 02 and have not had a problem with the engine other than having to replace the valve cover gaskets and thermostat housing.
#6
It's also an 02, right smack in the middle of that whole timing chain BS. Sounds like from what you say about the new engine, the chains should be good. 120k miles or less isn't a ton if you look at the truck as being 14 years old. That's 8500 miles a year.
The manual trans can make these trucks a lot of fun and can help on mpg. The downside is the design of the line for the slave cylinder for the clutch. There are numerous threads and posts online and on this site.
Post pics.
The manual trans can make these trucks a lot of fun and can help on mpg. The downside is the design of the line for the slave cylinder for the clutch. There are numerous threads and posts online and on this site.
Post pics.
#7
Just wanted to update you guys. I went ahead and bought the truck. Its been running great! Yes it does say FX4 on it. I'm new to rangers so I don't know all the details yet. She runs great and im really enjoying this truck already. It was taken care of by the last owner he did some small woods trails in it but everything is very clean, undercoated, greased up , etc.
Only thing I find with the truck is that its a little hard to get into first gear. All of the other gears shift fine. But if I am stopped and want to go to first , i have to play with it a little to get it into first. Thanks all!
Only thing I find with the truck is that its a little hard to get into first gear. All of the other gears shift fine. But if I am stopped and want to go to first , i have to play with it a little to get it into first. Thanks all!
#8
That can be due to one or more of a few things. The clutch slave is usually the first suspect. That is usually accompanied by leaking fluid. The next suspect is the clutch master cylinder. It can leak internally and not show any leaking fluid. It could also be a failing pilot bearing in the flywheel.
I experienced the bad master cylinder and it was replaced under warranty. I also experience the failing pilot bearing and replaced that myself.
One of the easiest fixes that can contribute to it being hard to get into first is old transmission fluid. A change of transmission fluid will help you if determine if that is the problem. BTW, the manual transmission uses ATF. I use Royal Purple Synchromax and change it at around 60K mile intervals. I find it makes shifting easier.
One thing I do is shift into first gear slowly. Even when everything is working right it will sometimes not want to go into first gear if you try to force it in. Just give it light pressure and let it slip in. Hmmmm, that sounds kind of sensual. Well its worth a try.
I experienced the bad master cylinder and it was replaced under warranty. I also experience the failing pilot bearing and replaced that myself.
One of the easiest fixes that can contribute to it being hard to get into first is old transmission fluid. A change of transmission fluid will help you if determine if that is the problem. BTW, the manual transmission uses ATF. I use Royal Purple Synchromax and change it at around 60K mile intervals. I find it makes shifting easier.
One thing I do is shift into first gear slowly. Even when everything is working right it will sometimes not want to go into first gear if you try to force it in. Just give it light pressure and let it slip in. Hmmmm, that sounds kind of sensual. Well its worth a try.
#9
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
+1 ^^^
Engine at idle is 600-750 RPMs
When stopped transmission is at 0 RPMs
Transmission can't be disconnected from wheels
Engine can be disconnected from Trans via Clutch.
So if your are stopped, trans in neutral, clutch pedal out, then clutch is spinning at 700 RPM.
When you push the clutch pedal in pressure hold clutch disc against flywheel is released, but clutch disc is still spinning and sitting in between flywheel and pressure plate which are spinning at 700 RPM, and there WILL BE rubbing.
When you push shifter into a gear the synchro pushes against the gear first, it has to slow the clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft down from 700 RPMs to 0 RPMs to match the trans/wheel RPMs, that takes some rubbing, lol, and when clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft are at 0 RPMs it will lock into 1st gear.
As said above if clutch slave travel is slightly less than full travel then there is more rubbing on the clutch disc, making it harder to slow down to 0 RPMs.
Could be air in the system or ??.
But try this, shift in to 4th gear first, that will stop clutch disc faster, then shift to 1st, clutch disc is already stopped so it will go in easier.
Forcing shifter in to 1st just wears down synchro faster.
Shifting while moving is easier because trans is not at 0 RPMs
Engine at idle is 600-750 RPMs
When stopped transmission is at 0 RPMs
Transmission can't be disconnected from wheels
Engine can be disconnected from Trans via Clutch.
So if your are stopped, trans in neutral, clutch pedal out, then clutch is spinning at 700 RPM.
When you push the clutch pedal in pressure hold clutch disc against flywheel is released, but clutch disc is still spinning and sitting in between flywheel and pressure plate which are spinning at 700 RPM, and there WILL BE rubbing.
When you push shifter into a gear the synchro pushes against the gear first, it has to slow the clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft down from 700 RPMs to 0 RPMs to match the trans/wheel RPMs, that takes some rubbing, lol, and when clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft are at 0 RPMs it will lock into 1st gear.
As said above if clutch slave travel is slightly less than full travel then there is more rubbing on the clutch disc, making it harder to slow down to 0 RPMs.
Could be air in the system or ??.
But try this, shift in to 4th gear first, that will stop clutch disc faster, then shift to 1st, clutch disc is already stopped so it will go in easier.
Forcing shifter in to 1st just wears down synchro faster.
Shifting while moving is easier because trans is not at 0 RPMs
#10
+1 ^^^
Engine at idle is 600-750 RPMs
When stopped transmission is at 0 RPMs
Transmission can't be disconnected from wheels
Engine can be disconnected from Trans via Clutch.
So if your are stopped, trans in neutral, clutch pedal out, then clutch is spinning at 700 RPM.
When you push the clutch pedal in pressure hold clutch disc against flywheel is released, but clutch disc is still spinning and sitting in between flywheel and pressure plate which are spinning at 700 RPM, and there WILL BE rubbing.
When you push shifter into a gear the synchro pushes against the gear first, it has to slow the clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft down from 700 RPMs to 0 RPMs to match the trans/wheel RPMs, that takes some rubbing, lol, and when clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft are at 0 RPMs it will lock into 1st gear.
As said above if clutch slave travel is slightly less than full travel then there is more rubbing on the clutch disc, making it harder to slow down to 0 RPMs.
Could be air in the system or ??.
But try this, shift in to 4th gear first, that will stop clutch disc faster, then shift to 1st, clutch disc is already stopped so it will go in easier.
Forcing shifter in to 1st just wears down synchro faster.
Shifting while moving is easier because trans is not at 0 RPMs
Engine at idle is 600-750 RPMs
When stopped transmission is at 0 RPMs
Transmission can't be disconnected from wheels
Engine can be disconnected from Trans via Clutch.
So if your are stopped, trans in neutral, clutch pedal out, then clutch is spinning at 700 RPM.
When you push the clutch pedal in pressure hold clutch disc against flywheel is released, but clutch disc is still spinning and sitting in between flywheel and pressure plate which are spinning at 700 RPM, and there WILL BE rubbing.
When you push shifter into a gear the synchro pushes against the gear first, it has to slow the clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft down from 700 RPMs to 0 RPMs to match the trans/wheel RPMs, that takes some rubbing, lol, and when clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft are at 0 RPMs it will lock into 1st gear.
As said above if clutch slave travel is slightly less than full travel then there is more rubbing on the clutch disc, making it harder to slow down to 0 RPMs.
Could be air in the system or ??.
But try this, shift in to 4th gear first, that will stop clutch disc faster, then shift to 1st, clutch disc is already stopped so it will go in easier.
Forcing shifter in to 1st just wears down synchro faster.
Shifting while moving is easier because trans is not at 0 RPMs
I do think it could be the slave, because when I push my clutch all the way to the floor it doesn't like to go into first. However say I ease back the clutch from 100% pressed to the floor to 90% , it will slip into first gear quite easily. I do not want to tear apart the synchros.
As well if I find a spare transmission will any one due out of that model? mine is a Fx4 with a stick 4x4 shifter. Would a normal gear box / trans bolt right into the fx4 transfercase?
Thanks!
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