Cleaned engine bay and saw oil in intake tube - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 03-05-2010
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Icon2 Cleaned engine bay and saw oil in intake tube

hey guys so i was washiing my engine bay with some degreaser and it look ok. see pics. then i wanted to clean my tb and i took it off and happen to look inside my intake tube and saw what seemed to be oil in the groves. also in the tb there was a thin coat of very dirty oil on the surface. i was wondering id that is normal to have that like maybe for the dirt to stick to or somethnig.... or is there a problem... btw i used this extream clean stuff in a blue bottle from simple green.... is where somethign else that works better from home depot?

dirty
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clean. i need to do it again and get in nooks and cranies
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Old 03-05-2010
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It Should be on the inside of the throttle body its from the EGR.
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Old 03-05-2010
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It Should be on the inside of the throttle body its from the EGR.
ok but its like pooling in the cevases (sp?) in the intake tube
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Old 03-05-2010
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if it is in the intake tube it is from the breather by the oil cap that goes into the intake tube. did you ever add oil with the engine running? or overfill the engine with oil? clean it out and keep an eye on it
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Old 03-05-2010
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no i dont remember adding oil while running and didnt over fill it that i know of... bil i will keep an eye on it tho thanks justin
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Old 03-05-2010
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Sounds like something might be up with your PCV system if its sucking oil into the intake tube.
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Old 03-05-2010
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i agree with rob... a bad PCV valve can cause this, as the blowby gases aren't being sucked back into the intake manifold, they are being sucked into the intake, on the airfilter side of the throttle body...

my bike had this issue, it was almost like a thick grease on the intake tube, and it's a dual carb setup... does your truck ever back fire? that is what was causing my issue on my bike, and my airfilter was all burnt on the inside

this COULD also be caused by the natural oils in the air, condensing on the intake tube, but this would take a long period of time to happen (similar to how your throttle body gets dirty) and is highly unlikley that this is the source of your issue

my money is on the PCV valve
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Old 03-05-2010
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if the pcv was inoperable though you should notice some driveability concerns too, lacck of power, poor fuel economy type stuff, but if it is clogged it will suck in from the breather by the filler cap i was talking about...def check the pcv
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Old 03-05-2010
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
if the pcv was inoperable though you should notice some driveability concerns too, lacck of power, poor fuel economy type stuff, but if it is clogged it will suck in from the breather by the filler cap i was talking about...def check the pcv
stuck open, it will cause symptoms similar to a vacuum leak, stuck closed will cause blowby gas issues..
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Old 03-05-2010
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stuck open, it will cause symptoms similar to a vacuum leak, stuck closed will cause blowby gas issues..
yes, i said inoperable, should have specified open
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Old 03-05-2010
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yes, i said inoperable, should have specified open
no worries man, i was agreeing, not arguing
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Old 03-05-2010
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how much and difficult is a pvc valve to change? Is it a job I can do or does it usually require a mechanic?
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Old 03-05-2010
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I shouldnt be too bad you should be able to do it yourself in like 30 mins
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Old 08-16-2010
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Curious as to what you found with your PCV Valve? I had the same symptoms and found that the PCV Valve was loose and would not stay in the valve cover.
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Old 08-16-2010
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Quote:
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how much and difficult is a pvc valve to change? Is it a job I can do or does it usually require a mechanic?

its about five bucks, locate on valve cover pull out, replace. u can do it.
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Old 08-16-2010
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some pcv's are heated and are like 60-70 bucks
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Old 08-16-2010
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as far as i know ones in ranger r not.
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Old 08-16-2010
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According to mitchell, the 4.0's do have a heated pcv.
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Old 08-16-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04_xlt_4.0_4x4 View Post
how much and difficult is a pvc valve to change? Is it a job I can do or does it usually require a mechanic?
The EPA says that manufacturers have to either put a flow monitor on the PCV or they have to install a "positive retention device" to make sure it doesn't just fall out of the grommet during normal operation. Most manufactures chose the retention device because it's cheaper/easier/more reliable than a flowmeter.

To make the job even more fun, many late model Fords have a coolant tube wrapped around the PCV body to prevent ice formation in extreme cold. This just adds to the experience.

Of course, all of this means that a 2 minute R&R job grows to 20 minutes....and the price of the valve jumps from about $4 to over $20....


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The 2003 Ranger shop manual gives a vague non-description of the PCV valve replacement on the 4.0L SOHC. Without "official" directions, here's what I did, right or wrong:
  • Wait for engine to cool.
  • Locate the PCV valve in the rear of the driver side cam/valve cover.
  • Pull the large PCV elbow off the PCV valve
  • Clamp off the two small coolant hoses that lead to the horseshoe tube. I used two small needle-nosed Vise Grips.
  • Squeeze and slide the constant tension clamps up the hoses.
  • Remove the hoses from the horseshoe tube.
  • Rotate the PCV valve 1/3 turn CCW to release it.
  • Reassemble in reverse order.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This picture of the 4.0L SOHC PCV valve shows the coolant "horseshoe" and the screw-in base.


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