hey guys so i was washiing my engine bay with some degreaser and it look ok. see pics. then i wanted to clean my tb and i took it off and happen to look inside my intake tube and saw what seemed to be oil in the groves. also in the tb there was a thin coat of very dirty oil on the surface. i was wondering id that is normal to have that like maybe for the dirt to stick to or somethnig.... or is there a problem... btw i used this extream clean stuff in a blue bottle from simple green.... is where somethign else that works better from home depot?

dirty


clean. i need to do it again and get in nooks and cranies

 

It Should be on the inside of the throttle body its from the EGR.

 

ok but its like pooling in the cevases (sp?) in the intake tube

 

if it is in the intake tube it is from the breather by the oil cap that goes into the intake tube. did you ever add oil with the engine running? or overfill the engine with oil? clean it out and keep an eye on it

 

no i dont remember adding oil while running and didnt over fill it that i know of... bil i will keep an eye on it tho thanks justin

 

Sounds like something might be up with your PCV system if its sucking oil into the intake tube.

 

i agree with rob... a bad PCV valve can cause this, as the blowby gases aren't being sucked back into the intake manifold, they are being sucked into the intake, on the airfilter side of the throttle body...

my bike had this issue, it was almost like a thick grease on the intake tube, and it's a dual carb setup... does your truck ever back fire? that is what was causing my issue on my bike, and my airfilter was all burnt on the inside

this COULD also be caused by the natural oils in the air, condensing on the intake tube, but this would take a long period of time to happen (similar to how your throttle body gets dirty) and is highly unlikley that this is the source of your issue

my money is on the PCV valve

 

if the pcv was inoperable though you should notice some driveability concerns too, lacck of power, poor fuel economy type stuff, but if it is clogged it will suck in from the breather by the filler cap i was talking about...def check the pcv

 

stuck open, it will cause symptoms similar to a vacuum leak, stuck closed will cause blowby gas issues..

 

yes, i said inoperable, should have specified open

 

no worries man, i was agreeing, not arguing

 

how much and difficult is a pvc valve to change? Is it a job I can do or does it usually require a mechanic?

 

I shouldnt be too bad you should be able to do it yourself in like 30 mins

 

Curious as to what you found with your PCV Valve? I had the same symptoms and found that the PCV Valve was loose and would not stay in the valve cover.

 

its about five bucks, locate on valve cover pull out, replace. u can do it.

 

some pcv's are heated and are like 60-70 bucks

 

as far as i know ones in ranger r not.

 

According to mitchell, the 4.0's do have a heated pcv.

 

The EPA says that manufacturers have to either put a flow monitor on the PCV or they have to install a "positive retention device" to make sure it doesn't just fall out of the grommet during normal operation. Most manufactures chose the retention device because it's cheaper/easier/more reliable than a flowmeter.

To make the job even more fun, many late model Fords have a coolant tube wrapped around the PCV body to prevent ice formation in extreme cold. This just adds to the experience.

Of course, all of this means that a 2 minute R&R job grows to 20 minutes....and the price of the valve jumps from about $4 to over $20....

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The 2003 Ranger shop manual gives a vague non-description of the PCV valve replacement on the 4.0L SOHC. Without "official" directions, here's what I did, right or wrong:

• Wait for engine to cool.
  
• Locate the PCV valve in the rear of the driver side cam/valve cover.
  
• Pull the large PCV elbow off the PCV valve
  
• Clamp off the two small coolant hoses that lead to the horseshoe tube. I used two small needle-nosed Vise Grips.
  
• Squeeze and slide the constant tension clamps up the hoses.
  
• Remove the hoses from the horseshoe tube.
  
• Rotate the PCV valve 1/3 turn CCW to release it.
  
• Reassemble in reverse order.

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This picture of the 4.0L SOHC PCV valve shows the coolant "horseshoe" and the screw-in base.