So if i ever happen to meet someone that says "hi, i am the engineer that designed the engine bay, and motor for your truck" i may just kick them in the *****....twice


I had to swap out the alternator on my truck. Now I cant get the damn belt back on. I used a breaker bar, belt tool, combination wrench. I tried from the top and the bottom to no avail. Could the fact that it is has been in the 20's with the belt off made it shrink enough to make it unable to be put back on?

 

You have to use a tensionor tool and relieve the tension. https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=79105

 

I usually have the best luck putting the belt on everything but the idler pulley then pulling on the tensioner until I can slide it on the idler pully ...if that makes sense...lol

 

i put a 18" 3/8" drive ratchet on the tensioner.....handle facing down towards the ground...me on my back...and fingering it on the tensioner pulley. of course..it's alot easier for me since i dont have a shroud either. lol.

i use a ratchet because you can manipulate your 'reach' by cranking, holding the tensioner still in that spot, ratchet it to help you 'swing' it more.

 

if you think thats bad, dont ever work on a mr2 lol

 

or any front wheel drive pretty much too. lol. we got it made. remove fan and shroud...gobs of room. lol.

 

+1

I just replaced an Escort serpentine belt. Much more difficult than a Ranger.

 

Yeah.. all engineers are out to make your life harder.

 

I didn't think it was that bad.

 

you think thats bad try'n work on a 2008 super duty with the diesel

 

I have removed belts before on a variety of cars. this has been the worst. I am moving the tensioner pretty far and it still isn't enough to get the belt on. D thanks for the offer but I have had it sitting in my garage for a week now while I have been talking to powermaster

 

i have a 13mm socket that i can use with my 1/2 breaker bar. i guess i could try to get my wife to help me, but that may be expecting too much. by belt tool earlier i mean this and that link that was posted before, that is for a 3.0, where the bolt is on the front. but on mine the bolt is on the back. is that normal or is mine some how on back wards?

 

Really dumb question. The pulley isn't bigger on the new alternator is it? Because it honestly shouldn't be that difficult.

 

no i am putting the stock one back on. i switched it out last summer and it died on me a week ago.

 

I wish I knew why you were having such a hard time... I replaced my alternator once after a mud pit chewed it up and spit it back out and it was outrageously easy... 45 minute job tops, including a beer break in the middle.

 

cause i am either stoopid or over tired most of the time... take your pick. got it all sorted out, ended up needing a hand in the end though.

 

Yea, I had to replace my alt last week, with a second person it is a breeze.

 

Lincoln Navigators are worse yet IMO.

but front wheel drive cars top the list really fast as the worst belt change.

 

it was fairly easy for me. the hard part of it is getting a wrench on the bolt. it has to be at just the right angle, or else youll bump into the frame or a hose.

you want to know what is a real pain in the ***? trying to install an M5OD

 

I don't get it? I just replaced the alternator on my truck last week with a 200 amp unit. Took longer to un-hook the wires from the old alternator than it took to remove the belt and three bolts and put it all back together. 15 minutes tops, truck is lifted and did it from on top with a 3/8" ratchet. Also replaced the idler pulley while it was apart. That idler pulley was so bad now motor sounds so sweet and quite. You must be routing the belt wrong, honestly it was easier then most other cars I have owned.
Old alternator is still good if anybody needs one PM me.

 

Super simple. move air intake housing out of the way. push (with hand) down and in on the tensioner, slide belt off at idler pulley (because its the easiest one), thread new belt on all pulleys except idler. push down on tensioner hard enough to slip the belt over the smooth idler pulley. no ratchet no breaker bar necessary. they may be easier but not necessary. by far one of the easier ones to change.
If the tensioner is to stiff to push down you should probably replace it. at least from my exp. on rangers.

 

ahmen brother

i ended up getting it last week.

the part that is annoying (and the reason for this thread) is that the head of the bolt for the tensioner is facing the firewall, not facing the fan. if it was facing the fan it would be 100 times easier

when i did my 1990 oldsmobile toronado (fwd) it wasnt that bad because the head of the bolt was right there. i know that RWD are usually easier, my fathers 86 f150 with the 300 is nice because there is lots of room under the hood. but their 1992 e 250 would more than likely be a real pain.