clutch / gearbox?
#1
clutch / gearbox?
Just after advice and see if this has happened to anyone else.
My 1996 4 litre Ranger, manual 4wd - had it about 3 years.
It has always been a bit tight going into some gears - but never a problem. Then got a bit worse.
Recently went into town. Pulled away and could not get it into any gear. Only way of getting home was to put it into gear (3rd) without engine running and pull away. So I must have a clutch to do that - but still couldn't change gear.
Any advice?
Many thanks
My 1996 4 litre Ranger, manual 4wd - had it about 3 years.
It has always been a bit tight going into some gears - but never a problem. Then got a bit worse.
Recently went into town. Pulled away and could not get it into any gear. Only way of getting home was to put it into gear (3rd) without engine running and pull away. So I must have a clutch to do that - but still couldn't change gear.
Any advice?
Many thanks
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
You have an M5OD-R1 manual transmission, it uses Mercon V ATF(automatic transmission fluid), YES, ATF in a manual transmission, I have seen some shops use Gear Oil in these, making them VERY hard to shift, so check fluid, should be RED ATF type
So at this time, engine off, you can't get it to shift into any other gear?
Yes, it reads like clutch is working if you can start the engine "in gear" and then engage that gear to get rolling
Reads like the 3-4 shift fork/rail has sheared roll pin, or 1-2, 5-R has
You can check for that by pulling the shifter out and looking inside
How-to pull shifter here: Shifter Bushing Replacement : The Ranger Station
If you look at the last picture you can see 2 of the 3 shifter slots, you can see all 3 from a different angle
Far right slot is 1-2
Center is 3-4
Left is 5-R
Think of the shift pattern but opposite movement on other side of pivot point
Move the center slot with a screwdriver and see if the shift rod moves with it, do the same to the other 2, returning each to "neutral", center
HEADS UP: if you want to put shifter back in MAKE SURE to line up ALL 3 SLOTS to the center, NEUTRAL, before putting shifter back in
The way a manual transmission works to prevent TWO gears from being engaged at the same time is to make sure all 3 slots are lined up in the center(neutral) before you can engage a different gear, the shifter can't move side to side unless the other 2 shift rails are centered
There are 3 shift rails(rods), each has a slot and Fork
Underside of shift assembly seen here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1501791993
You can see 2 of the 3 shift forks(1-2, 3-4) and all 3 rods
And you can see 2 of the roll pins that hold the shift forks to the shift rods
If transmission has been hard to shift, there may be the wrong oil inside or an internal problem, I can't say.
But the harder shifting could cause a roll pin to shear off locking you in a gear.
I would plan on pulling out the transmission in any case, it could be a simple fix but taking a good look at the inside will tell the tale.
If you need/want to put in another used transmission its a pretty safe bet, the M5OD-R1(M5R1) was a very reliable transmission, so used one from a wrecked Ranger should be OK to use.
Must be from a 4.0l OHV or SOHC Ranger, 1990-2012, and 4x4, you need to keep your 1996 transfer case for speedometer use, 1998 and up won't have correct speedometer setup for 1996 use
In your case you would have the 4x4 output shaft and tail shaft housing from current trans, so could use a 2WD trans but some disassemble would be required to swap the parts, so if you can only find 2WD then I would just rebuild your current model, wrench work is wrench work, lol
M5OD-R1HD is fine to use, they came on the 4.0l SOHC engines starting in 2001, but same bolt pattern as 4.0l OHV engine, and transfer case hook up, make sure you get the shifter with it, your shifter won't work with R1HD model
So at this time, engine off, you can't get it to shift into any other gear?
Yes, it reads like clutch is working if you can start the engine "in gear" and then engage that gear to get rolling
Reads like the 3-4 shift fork/rail has sheared roll pin, or 1-2, 5-R has
You can check for that by pulling the shifter out and looking inside
How-to pull shifter here: Shifter Bushing Replacement : The Ranger Station
If you look at the last picture you can see 2 of the 3 shifter slots, you can see all 3 from a different angle
Far right slot is 1-2
Center is 3-4
Left is 5-R
Think of the shift pattern but opposite movement on other side of pivot point
Move the center slot with a screwdriver and see if the shift rod moves with it, do the same to the other 2, returning each to "neutral", center
HEADS UP: if you want to put shifter back in MAKE SURE to line up ALL 3 SLOTS to the center, NEUTRAL, before putting shifter back in
The way a manual transmission works to prevent TWO gears from being engaged at the same time is to make sure all 3 slots are lined up in the center(neutral) before you can engage a different gear, the shifter can't move side to side unless the other 2 shift rails are centered
There are 3 shift rails(rods), each has a slot and Fork
Underside of shift assembly seen here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1501791993
You can see 2 of the 3 shift forks(1-2, 3-4) and all 3 rods
And you can see 2 of the roll pins that hold the shift forks to the shift rods
If transmission has been hard to shift, there may be the wrong oil inside or an internal problem, I can't say.
But the harder shifting could cause a roll pin to shear off locking you in a gear.
I would plan on pulling out the transmission in any case, it could be a simple fix but taking a good look at the inside will tell the tale.
If you need/want to put in another used transmission its a pretty safe bet, the M5OD-R1(M5R1) was a very reliable transmission, so used one from a wrecked Ranger should be OK to use.
Must be from a 4.0l OHV or SOHC Ranger, 1990-2012, and 4x4, you need to keep your 1996 transfer case for speedometer use, 1998 and up won't have correct speedometer setup for 1996 use
In your case you would have the 4x4 output shaft and tail shaft housing from current trans, so could use a 2WD trans but some disassemble would be required to swap the parts, so if you can only find 2WD then I would just rebuild your current model, wrench work is wrench work, lol
M5OD-R1HD is fine to use, they came on the 4.0l SOHC engines starting in 2001, but same bolt pattern as 4.0l OHV engine, and transfer case hook up, make sure you get the shifter with it, your shifter won't work with R1HD model
Last edited by RonD; 06-11-2018 at 10:23 AM.
#4
Your clutch is hydraulically actuated. Have you checked the clutch master cylinder fluid level? Sounds as if you are not getting full travel of throw-out bearing,(clutch dragging, not fully disengaged) which can be caused by low fluid level. The bad thing is that if air got into system due to low level of fluid, you might need to bleed hydraulic system-not that hard to do with a helper. 1) Check fluid level by removing cap and looking into M/C. 2) If low or not seen, add brake fluid to reservoir and slowly pump clutch pedal 10-15 X's. 3)This may fix it, if not, bleed it, with a helper.
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