Engine won't fire up, help?
Will get on that. Thanks.
In case you haven't tried yet , read the codes in the PCM.
Here's a link how to go about it.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
Here's a link how to go about it.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
I just hate wasting time and money fixing stuff, so on that note here's what I'd do (in order) if I had to fix it and I wanted to get to the point ASAP, fix it, and be done:
*Do a visual under the hood for anything disconnected or any obvious damage. Repair as needed.
*Pull a spark plug wire off, insert a spare spark plug and prove that it has spark.
*Turn the key on and off a few times, then go to the fuel rail (ie, plumbing that delivers fuel to the injectors) and, on said rail there is a schrader valve (like on your tires). Pull the cap and press on this valve to see if there is a spray.
*With the schrader valve still uncovered, hold the valve open and have someone crank it over. It should dispense fuel. Watch your eyes.
If it's proven that it's got fuel and spark, the next step is to pull DTC's. The correct repair sequence is KOEO, KOER, and CM, and withing each of those groups you begin repairs with the lowest number DTC first. The reason for this is, sometimes one code will trip otherS, and by fixing them in the correct sequence I noted, you often will make the other DTC'(s) go away.
***Some of the early 4.0's (up to ~1995 or so) suffer from no-starts due to bad EEC or fuel pump relays. It's a "slightly" common problem. Keep this note in your back pocket when doing diagnostics.
*Do a visual under the hood for anything disconnected or any obvious damage. Repair as needed.
*Pull a spark plug wire off, insert a spare spark plug and prove that it has spark.
*Turn the key on and off a few times, then go to the fuel rail (ie, plumbing that delivers fuel to the injectors) and, on said rail there is a schrader valve (like on your tires). Pull the cap and press on this valve to see if there is a spray.
*With the schrader valve still uncovered, hold the valve open and have someone crank it over. It should dispense fuel. Watch your eyes.
If it's proven that it's got fuel and spark, the next step is to pull DTC's. The correct repair sequence is KOEO, KOER, and CM, and withing each of those groups you begin repairs with the lowest number DTC first. The reason for this is, sometimes one code will trip otherS, and by fixing them in the correct sequence I noted, you often will make the other DTC'(s) go away.
***Some of the early 4.0's (up to ~1995 or so) suffer from no-starts due to bad EEC or fuel pump relays. It's a "slightly" common problem. Keep this note in your back pocket when doing diagnostics.
Update: all of the sudden, ranger lost spark. I replaced the coil. Now I have spark, ranger still won't fire. We tried ether again, and it would fire but it wouldn't actually run.
I am plumb out of ideas. Anyone got anything else???
I am plumb out of ideas. Anyone got anything else???
I honestly have no idea. Its hard to diagnose something without being there.
I only mentioned the timing earlier because the truck is a 90, the chain on that truck has got to have some slack in it by now.
Pulling any DTC codes will be almost worthless IMO also, the truck is an OBD1 truck, same as mine. you'd have to go to a body shop to get it read.
its like i said before, you need three things to get a truck to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. I guess following that the next thing to check would be all the sensors that deal with the Air.
I only mentioned the timing earlier because the truck is a 90, the chain on that truck has got to have some slack in it by now.
Pulling any DTC codes will be almost worthless IMO also, the truck is an OBD1 truck, same as mine. you'd have to go to a body shop to get it read.
its like i said before, you need three things to get a truck to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. I guess following that the next thing to check would be all the sensors that deal with the Air.
I honestly have no idea. Its hard to diagnose something without being there.
I only mentioned the timing earlier because the truck is a 90, the chain on that truck has got to have some slack in it by now.
Pulling any DTC codes will be almost worthless IMO also, the truck is an OBD1 truck, same as mine. you'd have to go to a body shop to get it read.
its like i said before, you need three things to get a truck to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. I guess following that the next thing to check would be all the sensors that deal with the Air.
I only mentioned the timing earlier because the truck is a 90, the chain on that truck has got to have some slack in it by now.
Pulling any DTC codes will be almost worthless IMO also, the truck is an OBD1 truck, same as mine. you'd have to go to a body shop to get it read.
its like i said before, you need three things to get a truck to run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. I guess following that the next thing to check would be all the sensors that deal with the Air.
All sensors were fine. All filters are fine. I have gone over all the basics again and again and again. It appears to be an anomaly. At this point, I am about to give up- say screw it, part out what I can and then junk the body and look for another truck.
anyone have any other ideas?.
Officially out of money to spend on this truck. Last option, gonna have to try and sell it or junk it. What might be the best way to go about this? Gotta sell it asap- as it is my only vehicle and I have been hoofin it to work
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