My son’s 2004 Ranger 4WD makes a metallic ticking/tinking noise. It’s more noticeable after the engine idles down slightly after starting, and it seems to actually quiet down if you give it some throttle.

It seems like it’s coming from the back of the engine…. Of course.

I put a stethoscope to it and you can hear it pretty much anywhere you stick the rod.

Anyway we replaced the water pump thinking it was a bad and it helped some. There was slop in the pump bearing, but it was still there, so we took the belt off and the noise was still there.

The thing is, I’ve seen videos that talk about the "Ford 4.0 death rattle". The engines in those videos just sound god awful.

That’s not what his truck is doing. it’s more of a ticking/tinking, but not a knock like a rod and not a ticking lifter. Hard to explain other than calling it a tinking sound.

I’m wondering if the death rattle is caused by broken guide pieces rubbing the chain links which isn’t what we have but maybe what I’m hearing on this truck is a loose tensioner causing the chain to "slap" and that’s why it quiets with a little rpm’s.

As of now, I’m planning to start pulling the engine this weekend. Gonna get it on a stand and go after that left bank.

I’ve not done this before. Ive not pulled an engine out before unless bikes count.
I’ve mostly had Harley engines apart.

I’m confident that between the factory service manual, YouTube videos, and one or two buddies who happen to be damn fine mechanics I can call for advice I should be able to do this job right as long as I take a **** ton of pictures, mark stuff like crazy, and take my time.

So I’m on here asking for any tips or pointers. I know this is been done a lot.

Before I get too crazy and start yanking this engine out, is there a chance the issue can be resolved simply by adjusting the tensioner?

So yeah. Any advice on pulling the motor or the timing chain job is much appreciated.

I’ll also take recommendations on where to get the best replacement parts that are proven to be better than the faulty oem stuff.

I appreciate anyone taking the time to read this post and reply to it with helpful information.

 

The Death Rattle noise is made after a guide breaks away from its attachment, so damage done, and it will get worse as engine is used more
Its caused by the hydraulic tensioner failing on one of the two long timing chains in the 4.0l SOHC
The failing is usually the spring inside the tensioner, the spring is used to hold the tensioner tight during start up before there is enough oil pressure, if the spring fails then the chain bangs on a guide on each start up, and eventually the guide breaks
It can also be oil pressure issue at one of the tensioners that cause it

When engine is COLD you can remove the fan belt from crank pulley
Start engine, battery light will stay on, no alternator
Engine bay will be VERY QUIET with no fan or accessories spinning
Listen for any noise
You can only run a COLD engine 1 to 2 min without a water pump, but that's plenty of time to find noises, or no noises, lol
And you can repeat this test anytime engine is COLD again

There is no adjustment for these tensioners

Generally speaking these two tensioners should be changed every 100k miles, rear one is easy, front one is not hard but need to remove throttle body or you can bugger up the threads installing the new one
Some have said the noise went away with new tensioners installed, and since you need new ones anyway.....................worth a shot


When pulling any engine out you are lifting 450+ pounds off the front suspension, so the front of the vehicle WILL come up quite high, so getting the engine out over the fenders and rad support can get complicated, lol
Be prepared, you can chain the front suspension so it only comes up a bit, if you get stuck remove front tires and lower it down

Take lots of pictures as you go
Label EVERYTHING even if its obvious

I have a long table I use(well two really), and as I take a part off it goes at the far end if the table and then the next part and so on, so I don't mix up the order they need to go back on, same with nuts and bolts, always in order of when I needed to remove them, and put on the table

If its an automatic ATF will come out of the torque converter, be prepared even if you unbolt from the flex plate first, it will start to leak ATF

 

So judging by what I said in my post you would replace the tensioners and see if that quiets it….

If it does should I just run the truck or should I tear it apart anyways because the possibility of damage done?

thanks

 

As said, tensioners should be replaced after 100k miles regarless
And if you think the noise might be a timing chain issue then replace them
If you pull the engine to repair guides you need new tensioners in any case
So.............replace the tensioners now and see how it goes

 

It is a good idea to replace the tensioners first to see if it helps. It is not likely to help though. The main problem with the tensioners is the spring that holds tension at start up before the oil pressure builds up to pressurize the tensioners. You are getting the noise after the engine has started, but your symptoms are indicative of failed guides.

If you do decide to replace the guides, make sure you have the tools to set the cam timing. If you follow directions, it is pretty straight forward but it is very critical to get it right. The best videos I have seen on this guide replacement work is a four-part series. Here is a link for part two: You should be able to find the rest from there. I used this as my bible when I did mine as well as the Ford shop manual. Fortunately, my brother has a professional automotive shop and had done it before. He had a few short cuts, but I don't remember enough about it to guide you through it. One was a way to not have to remove the cam. He also had the correct tools for timing the cam.

I suggest also replacing the main mechanical tensioner on the main timing chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. Mine was completely broken off, while the suspect timing chain guides where still in good condition other than being very brittle.

I replaced my timing chain tensioners at 100K miles, and they were still good at 250K miles when I did the timing chain rebuild. Of course, I changed them during the rebuild along with guides, chains, sprockets, bolts, gaskets, etc. I even installed a new oil pump. I used all OEM parts, but I hear they are very difficult to find now.

 

It’s a damn good thing I got this engine out and tore down when I did.
When I took the timing cover off the tensioner for the Jackshaft chain fell out. The guides for the right and left side camshafts were both in pieces. How this thing didn’t jump time and ruin itself I’ll never know. Lucky I guess.

Jackshaft chain tensioner is shot


Chain has been wearing into metal of tensioner

Wearing into timing cover

Front cassette in pieces


Pieces on pickup screen

 

Yes, that does look like a "just in time" moment

 

I noticed there is. Small hole in the block behind the Jackshaft sprocket. I can’t tell if it’s supposed to be there as an oil passageway, or if there is some sort of issue. Can somebody tell me if this is normal?

 

That does not look like a designed hole. It doesn't look like it will harm anything though.

When I took mine apart, the jackshaft tensioner didn't fall out, but it was broken off and wedged in somewhere. The right and left guides were still intact and functioning properly but were very brittle. One of them broke when I was removing it. You certainly had a mess in there. Good call to go in and do the rebuild.

I too thought it was amazing that it didn't jump timing on mine with the jackshaft tensioner broken off. It looked like it had been that way a long time. Yours also had the cam chain guides broken. You are very lucky that no further damaged occurred. Maybe that little hole is a result of it.

 

what’s really crazy is I first noticed the noise six months ago.

my son has an automotive class and they looked at it and told me they took the belt off and the noise went away. Said it’s the water pump or power steering bearing. I let him drive it that way for half a year before I hit tone to change the water pump and that’s when I noticed man this really doesn’t sound good.

taking the engine out is the hard part. This timing job isn’t bad at all if you take your time and use the special tools. I’ve got everything back together and am ready to start torquing to time.

 

Weird question. This engine is in a 2004 Ranger XLT 4WD.

Everything I read said the 4WD trucks have the balance shaft.

There was no balance shaft in this engine.

is that odd or am I missing something??

 

No, it is normal. As I posted in another thread, it was mainly the early 4WD Explorers with the 4.0 SOHC engine that had the balance shaft.

 

+1 ^^^^

The balancer shaft was added to the 4.0 SOHC in 4x4s that used Live Axle(always locked front hubs) or auto 4WD, like explorers
Engineers thought the always rotating front drive shaft might cause a vibration, so they added a counter balancer to some of the 4x4 4.0l SOHC engines
Turns out it wasn't needed so was dropped
Doesn't hurt anything to have it or not have it

 

Need some help. I got a gasket kit from Fel pro that had my timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, and a new front main seal.

I pushed the old main seal out, and the new one went in really easily. I can push it deeper and adjust it with my fingers.

that’s not gonna work, right? No way the harmonic balance is gonna push inside that. It’ll just shove the seal back.

why is it so loose fitting? Is it just bad tolerance?