4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

JBA header owners please read!

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  #26  
Old 06-27-2008
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I used the origional bolt that was on the engine.. I have a picture of that side of my engine and you can visibly see the different bolts I had.

One moment while I take a peek at the post history, I'll dig up my newly installed headers thread and post a relink for you.


EDIT:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=59192

and scroll down a bit.. I didnt stare too hard because I have to get ready for work, but I think it'll show the odd assortment of bolts you may need to use. If it doesnt, I'll be more then happy to go out and snap a shot for ya =)
 

Last edited by WowMike2001; 06-27-2008 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 06-27-2008
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Originally Posted by WowMike2001
I used the origional bolt that was on the engine.. I have a picture of that side of my engine and you can visibly see the different bolts I had.

One moment while I take a peek at the post history, I'll dig up my newly installed headers thread and post a relink for you.


EDIT:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=59192

and scroll down a bit.. I didnt stare too hard because I have to get ready for work, but I think it'll show the odd assortment of bolts you may need to use. If it doesnt, I'll be more then happy to go out and snap a shot for ya =)
I need the bolt from the other side the one that holds the tranny dipstick in place. No pictures of the bolts in that thread. thanks though
 
  #28  
Old 06-27-2008
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Each head has 2 studs at each port that used to hold the stock iron manifold on - these are directly across the port from each other. So there's a total of six of these studs on each head and the thread is 8x1.25 metric.

In addition to those six, there are 3 more holes (all different sizes), one directly above each exhaust port. The JBA flanges have holes for those three extra bolts but the stock manifolds do not.

On my engine, the metric threads for the three extra holes are as follows:

small - 6x1.00
medium - 8x1.25
large - 12x1.75

After you decide which thread it is, you will need to figure out what length you need. You can convert an inch measurement to millimeters by multiplying by 25.4. As an example, a bolt that is 1 1/4" long is about 32mm long.
 
  #29  
Old 06-27-2008
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
Each head has 2 studs at each port that used to hold the stock iron manifold on - these are directly across the port from each other. So there's a total of six of these studs on each head and the thread is 8x1.25 metric.

In addition to those six, there are 3 more holes (all different sizes), one directly above each exhaust port. The JBA flanges have holes for those three extra bolts but the stock manifolds do not.

On my engine, the metric threads for the three extra holes are as follows:

small - 6x1.00
medium - 8x1.25
large - 12x1.75

After you decide which thread it is, you will need to figure out what length you need. You can convert an inch measurement to millimeters by multiplying by 25.4. As an example, a bolt that is 1 1/4" long is about 32mm long.
Thank you very much! Do you think there is any chance of me getting any money back from the garage that did the original install?
 
  #30  
Old 06-28-2008
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Originally Posted by CJGSAY
Thank you very much! Do you think there is any chance of me getting any money back from the garage that did the original install?
You could ask them. Maybe something could be worked out amicably after you prove that a proper installation cures the leak.

Most, if not all, states require that auto service facilities be licensed. Individual states also usually have a watchdog agency to oversee the facilities and arbitrate disputes. Check your state's website for more info.

If it comes to arbitration, it is important to have evidence to show them. All receipts should be retained of course and also your written record of what was said by whom and when. A before and after video/audio of the problem would also be good.
 
  #31  
Old 06-28-2008
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Icon7

Originally Posted by rwenzing
You could ask them. Maybe something could be worked out amicably after you prove that a proper installation cures the leak.

Most, if not all, states require that auto service facilities be licensed. Individual states also usually have a watchdog agency to oversee the facilities and arbitrate disputes. Check your state's website for more info.

If it comes to arbitration, it is important to have evidence to show them. All receipts should be retained of course and also your written record of what was said by whom and when. A before and after video/audio of the problem would also be good.
I am doubting that I will get anything back, but I finally got it fixed about a half hour ago, did the front brakes while I have the front tires off. 23800 and the rotors looked shotty from sitting so much in the garage. Oh well money well spent, if it saves my @ss. I am just glad that I don't sound like a model-t driving down the road anymore. THANKS to all that helped out on here, especially you BOB. Major kudos to you again!
 
  #32  
Old 06-28-2008
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Glad you got it fixed
 
  #33  
Old 06-28-2008
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Originally Posted by bucky919
Glad you got it fixed
Yeah ME TOO! There is the slightest noise if you really pay attention now when you give it full pedal. I am VERY happy with these headers! Recommend to anyone! JUST MAKE SURE THEY ARE INSTALLED CORRECTLY. Would not suggest The exhaust shop I went to EVER AGAIN, even if it is my "buddies" shop.
 
  #34  
Old 06-28-2008
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Originally Posted by CJGSAY
I am doubting that I will get anything back, but I finally got it fixed about a half hour ago...
Good job, Chris - glad you got it sorted out.

As mentioned before, it would be a good idea to heat cycle them a couple of times and then snug up the fasteners on both sides. I did that during the initial install on my truck and never had a bit of trouble with them. Should be well worth the extra effort.
 
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