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Looking at doing 4.0 Engine swap

  #1  
Old 12-03-2018
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Looking at doing 4.0 Engine swap

Hey all,
My dad has a 1993 extended cab with the 4.0 engine. 2 years ago he sunk some money into getting the tranmission fixed and putting new exhaust and cat on it and a few other things, he likes his little truck . Motor runs pretty good as does the trans. Unfortunately the frame cracked by the crossmember. I ended up finding a reg cab with the2 .3 in it and 5spd. power nothing and no air. He doesnt quite dig that truck.. We talked to a local junk yard and he quoted us 500.00 for another frame. We kinda thought we would just swap out everything and get it back on the road...but....i happened to come across another extended cab with a blown motor. its a 1996 has air and all the other good stuff his old one did and is an automatic, and he is asking like 700. Only difference is, it has the 3.0 in it.
I have no problem doing a complete engine and trans swap. I figured that part should be easy. The electrical stuff is the biggest question. Im guessing if i take the wire harness and the computer out of the 93 and put it in the 96 it should work. plus i think the 96 has power windows where as the 93 doesnt. will this be an issue? I know the swaps i read about are normally a newer motor into an older one but this is the choice i got, and i figured it has to be easier then swaping the whole body. Any advice to get me where i need to go would be greatly appriciated!
 
  #2  
Old 12-03-2018
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Welcome to the forum

1994 and earlier have the EEC-IV 60-wire computer, OBD1

1995 and up have the EEC-V 104-wire computer, OBD2
1995 and up also have a Body computer, called the GEM from 1995 to 2003, then SJB from 2004 to 2012
Unless its a 4x4 the GEM just runs cab electrics with no connection to engine computer so shouldn't be an issue

You will be bringing over older computer and its engine wiring harness if automatic then also the trans wiring harness

Best bet will be to leave 1996 wiring as is, remove 3.0l computer and its engine harness but separate the harness wires so you are just taking out engine wires not other wires

The older computer just needs Keep Alive power for memory(full time 12v) and then key on power, plus its 4 ground wires

The MAF, IAC, EVAP, and O2s will need key on 12v as well, those wires will be in the 3.0l engine harness but will go to engine fuse box
Coil Pack 12v comes from cab fuse box, also on the 3.0l harness

If you can find an EVTM for 1996 Ranger it would make thing easier, also for 1993 Ranger
EVTM is electric vacuum troubleshooting manual, Ford sent this book out every year for every model to dealers, as part of the shop manual set
People buy and sell these all the time, Google: EVTM 1996 Ranger

Found one here: https://www.ebay.com/p/1996-Ford-Ran...OEM/1537150700

1993 seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Ford-R...d=140907171826

EVTM tells you where every wire is and what it does, like a wiring diagram on steroids, lol
Also vacuum lines

EVTM covers all Rangers models, trims and options for that year

And after you use them you can resell them, they always will have value to someone, lol.
 
  #3  
Old 12-03-2018
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Hainesport
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Thanks! I beleive you pretty much answered everything i needed. both rangers are automatic, but i figured that the 3.0 trans wouldnt bolt up to the 4.0, and i planned on taking it out togther in one piece anyway, and installing the same way. the computer for me and the wiring was the big question mark. I hate doing electrics and this is alot more complicated compared to my other cars im messing with. of course they almost 70 years old.. Again thanks for the info!
 
  #4  
Old 12-04-2018
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Yes, 3.0l and 4.0l have different bolt patterns so trans can't be swapped between them
But 1993 also has an A4LD trans with just 2 computer controlled solenoids, 1998 has 4R44E with 6 solenoids
They are the same transmission internally, just more shift control on the later model
 
  #5  
Old 12-08-2018
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just picked up the 96 ranger extended cab today,got it for 600 dollars and it seems really clean for its age and was garage kept. it has 73,989 miles on the odometor. its a 3.0 and automatic. when we went to go look at it the prevous owner thought it could have a bad engine ,but then his mechanic who was there(it was at his shop, but he was a real old timer) said he thought it maybe the computer making it sound like it was only running on half the cylinders.Any ideas? thought maybe it could be the coil, or the computer. the oil looks fine, car doesnt even looked like anyone ever abused it. So far ihavent got it to fire, it turns over and sputters but thats it. I just think it would be wierd for a engine to die with 73k on it. Any guesses?
 
  #6  
Old 12-09-2018
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50/50 test
Spray gasoline or ether into the engine and see if it starts

If it starts and dies then you have a fuel problem
If it doesn't start then its a spark or compression problem
50/50

3.0l Vulcan engine was very reliable mechanically
Coil packs can fail just not very likely issue

Fuel pumps do go bad
 
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