I have a 2001 ford ranger with 144k miles. its in great shape and I'm very very happy with it. But recently, it won't start. I turn the key to the "on" position. The dashboard lights up like normal. I turn the key to engage the starter and nothing happens...

I've put it on a code reader. Its generated no error codes.

I've replaced the battery and the ignition switch. I assumed it was the starter so I pulled the starter relay and jumped from 30 to 87 and the starter engages. I turned the key to the on position and did the jumper from 30 to 87, and it starts up. and runs normally. I turned the motor off by turning the key to the off position. So, its not the starter.

I'm not a mechanic. I need ideas of what it could be and I'll start eliminating them one by one. By definition, what's left must be the problem.

So, has anyone experienced similar problems? what was the cause?

I appreciate any and all intelligent suggestions!

Thank you,

John David Deatherage

 

Welcome to the forum

Good testing

2001 4.0l Ranger has PATS(passive anti-theft system), but not your issue since engine did start with key on using the jumper

The START circuit has its own fuse, fuse 24 in Cab fuse box, check it

When key is turned to START the ignition switch sends 12v to fuse 24, that 12v is then passed on to the "neutral switch" to prevent starting "in gear"
On a manual trans this is a Clutch switch
On an automatic its the DTR switch on the drivers side of transmission

Automatics with column shifters can get loose screws under the dash, this prevents the DTR switch being moved all the way to Park position, so while transmission IS IN Park, DTR is not
Try shifting to Neutral and see if it starts normally

Clutch switches rarely have issues

Power path
Ignition switch----------fuse 24----------------Neutral switch------------------------------------------starter relay in engine fuse box

In the diagram the PCM(computer) Grounds the Starter Relay so it can be activated by the 12v from fuse 24, this is part of PATS
You can test this at starter relay to make sure either 85 or 86 is a good ground with key on, doesn't need to be turned to START, as soon as key passes the PATS test PCM will ground that relay terminal until key is turned off

 

Ron D, thank you for responding!

1) "fuse 24 in Cab fuse box",
I've just checked it and its not burned/blown...

2) "Automatics with column shifters can get loose screws under the dash, this prevents the DTR switch being moved all the way to Park position, so while transmission IS IN Park, DTR is not
Try shifting to Neutral and see if it starts normally"

I have shifted the automoatic transmission to neutral and tried to start it. Did not not engage the starter...

" Automatics with column shifters can get loose screws under the dash"...
that sounds like something I should check. Can you be more specific? which screws?

3) "You can test this at starter relay to make sure either 85 or 86 is a good ground with key on, doesn't need to be turned to START, as soon as key passes the PATS test PCM will ground that relay terminal until key is turned off."

can you be more specific? how do I prove that 85 or 86 is a good ground? what do you mean by "as soon as key passes the PATS test PCM will ground that relay terminal until key is turned off."?

Thank you for taking the time to read and respond to my questions. I truly appreciate it !!!

John David Deatherage

 

Swap the 7.5amp fuse with another 7.5amp fuse just to be sure

Pull out starter relay
Turn key on
Put Volt meter probe(red) on Battery Positive
Touch other probe(black) to any engine metal, should see 12.x volts, battery volts, means meter is working
Now touch that same probe(black) to 85 and then 86 one should make meter show 12.x volts again, that means its a good ground, and PATS has grounded the relay
No ground = no crank
REMEMBER which slot is the Ground if it tested as a good ground, 85 or 86
The OTHER slot gets the 12volts from Neutral switch and fuse 24
You can use a 12v test light or meter that you can see from the cab, to test if that 12v is making to the starter relay
Ground the test light or meter, battery negative
Put other probe in 85 or 86 which ever was NOT the ground, then turn key to START, should see it light up or 12v on the meter, if not you have a wiring issue

Google: ford ranger loose column shifter

Ford trucks in general have this same loose shifter issue

 

I started to experience a similar problem with my 96 ranger, but it would start some days and others I had to put it in neutral to start it, then after a while it would only start in neutral, after a while longer it wouldn't go in park any more. I tore down the shifter column and found that the shifter tube was broken on the end where the linkage to the transmission hooked up. I ordered a new one and the problem was solved for me. Not saying this is your problem but it may be.

 

I think I've eliminated everything but the Neutral Safety switch. I don't have a lift or the ability to get it off the ground far enough where I could work under it so I'm going to drive it to a local repair shop.

Thank you for all of your advice!. I couldn't fix it but I (with your help!) fought the good fight!

John David Deatherage

 

So 12volts at Fuse 24 with key turned to START, but no 12volts are starter relay with key turned to start
Yes that reads like DTR issue, or START wire at the DTR