I solved my error code P1445 by changing the engine wiring harness. Now I have a P0171 code which I never had before. Maybe a vacuum leak? Any Ideas? I need to get it ready for emissions test. I only have a week left. Fix one problem and another pops up. I did replace the Plastic intake shell using the one from the old engine. I torques the nuts to 72 Inch Lbs, But I did not have new rubber gaskets between it and the aluminum intake manifold. Will try changing Vacuum lines first. What say you RonD.
Mel

 

P0171 is Lean on Bank 1(passenger side)

What it actually means is that the Computer is having to add more fuel via the 3 fuel injectors than it calculated.
Usually code is set when there is a 15% or higher difference
i.e. if computer calculates air flow at XXX and it calculates it needs to open the 3 injectors for 100ms(milliseconds) to get 14.7:1 ratio.
If O2 Sensor on that bank reports Lean, too much Oxygen, then computer increases Open Time to 102ms, then 104ms then ect....., until O2 sensor reports correct Oxygen level in exhaust, if it got above 115ms then computer sets the P0171 code.

Since it is on only 1 bank it must be bank specific, so not MAF sensor or upper intake vacuum leak, that would effect Both Banks

You could try spraying soapy water along the gasket on that bank and injectors, see if engine stumbles as it sucks in the water.

Exhaust manifold leak SUCKS IN air, which gives a False Lean, O2 sees that extra Oxygen that was sucked in so engine is actually running Rich

A good long term investment is a Blue Tooth OBD2 reader, not expensive, it can be connected to ANY vehicle made after 1995 so not a Ford thing.
You need a Smart Phone or laptop/tablet with Blue Tooth to view data/codes from the Vehicle's computer.
But you can see Live Data while driving.
Only reason I mention it is that Bank 2 could be at 13% over, lol, so not enough to set a code but could indicate low fuel pressure or a common vacuum leak.

After engine is warmed up and idling, unplug the 2 wires on the IAC Valve
Idle will drop to 500rpms or engine may even stall, either is good, no vacuum leaks
If idle stays high then you have a vacuum leak

 

engine is running about 1800 rpm at idle. I have a OBD2 Tester which gives me the P0171 code. I checked and replaced the Vacuum lines this morning still have the same problem. Did not have it before changing the wiring harness. it leads me to believe that It is a bad seal between the Plastic intake and the intake manifold. Which I replaced with the one off of the old engine. I want to exhaust all other options before pulling the plastic intake. Will keep the forum posted.
Mel

 

After the engine warmed up the idle dropped to around 1000 RPM. I pulled the plug off of the IAC and the idle did not change indicating a Vacuum leak. will do the water soap test next. I notice that the black Oring on the EGR tube is showing like it is pinched where it goes into the upper manifold. could that be it? I did not replace the black and green Orings on the EGR tube when I changed out the upper manifold. Not getting a bad EGR Code though.

I did the water soap test and Idle did not change I sprayed all along bank one between the upper manifold and the fuel rail including the injectors. any Ideas?
Mel

 

1,000 RPM warm is too high
And IAC valve is already closed all the way so computer can't bring it down any more

Did you spray around EGR valve?

On the throttle linkage there is a screw that "looks like" an idle screw, it is an "anti-diesel" screw.
After engine is warmed up, unplug IAC valve again, you can see if turning that screw reduces idle, if so keep turning it until RPMs are 500 or so and engine is stumbling a bit.
Plug IAC Valve back in, computer should bring RPMs up to 650 manual trans, 750 automatic.

You can also try spraying Quick Start(ether) instead of soapy water, but be careful, it IS flammable

 

Will try what you say in the morning when it is cool. I have starting fluid so can try that also. and yes I sprayed the soapy water on the EGR Valve and also on the EGR tube where it enters the Plenum. I have a set of gaskets for the Plenum where it mates to the Fuel rail. The only thing I can think of is I changed the plenum from the old motor to this one, but did not change gaskets I did that when I changed the wiring harness, which solved the P1445 problem. I did not have the P0171 error Before. Also the EGR Tube where it enters the plenum I can see the black rubber Retainer (oring) looks like it is pinched and did not go all of the way in the plenum. cannot see the green Oring. I will go to ford tomorrow and get the black and the green orings. Sure hope I can get this fixed. I would hate to have to take it to ford.
Mel

 

I adjusted the Idle and it now stumbles when I disconnect the IAC and speeds up when I plug the ICA back in. Upon closer examination I found that the Green Oring on the end of the EGR Tube had fallen down and was cut in half so the EGR tube is not sealed where it goes into the Plenum. I will go to ford and get both the black and green Orings. will attempt to install without removing the plenum, by disconnecting EGR tube from exhaust manifold and engine block. I hope this is the problem.
Mel

 

Good work

If EGR inlet is on passenger side then that could cause the P0171

Be good to see live STFT(short tern fuel trim) data to see if both banks were close to the + 15%
EGR leak should effect both banks, but if closer to passenger side inlets then that side would get a little more of the leaking air

 

I went to ford and they had to special order the 2 orings. Will have them tomorrow noon. I ended up having to remove the plenum in order to replace the seals on the upper end of the EGR pipe. Hope to get it back together tomorrow if I get the seals in time. I only found half of the green round oring. I found the black one pinched and broken. Hope that this will cure it. I have new gaskets for the bottom of the plenum where it mates to the fuel rail, even though the old ones look good I will replace anyway rather than take a chance. I could not break the nut loose on the EGR valve going to the pipe that hooks to the manifold. I think it takes a 1-1/8th inch or a 27MM end wrench. I used knock rust and blaster on it but could not break it loose. Hope I never have to change the EGR valve.
Mel

Mel

 

Problem Solved. It was the pinched oring and Retainer gasket on the upper EGR Tube where it entered the Plenum. I got the 2 parts from ford this afternoon and installed them along with new gaskets between the Plenum and Fuel Rail. I took the truck down for the emissions check and it passed. got my license plates and am a happy camper. Motor is running smooth. I wish also to thank everyone, Especially RonD for the help and advise they have given me on the forum. This Forum Is Number 1 Thanks everyone.

 

Good Work

Thank you for posting the fixes