Hi All,

Planning to install new Ford tensioners soon, 2009 Ranger 4.0L. I've read the tensioners should be primed with oil first, but also read if primed they become very hard to install, is that correct? If not primed first is it possible to crank the engine without starting to build oil pressure to prime them that way?

Thanks!

 

Preference here is to prime new Tensioners with fresh oil, then use a vice to squeeze most of that oil out to allow them to thread in easier.
When old Tensioners are removed, spray a little CarbCleaner into those OilSupplyGalleys to help clear any oil sludge.
Take care to center the CrushWasher\Seal as each Tensioner is snugged down, then Torq to spec.
After each Tensioner is installed, dead crank engine with GasPedalToFloor 5~10sec until OilGauge needle jumps,
then release GasPedal & start Engine; make sure OilPressure pops up to midGauge.
Watch Tensioner closely for Oil leaks around crush Washer\Seal; be ready to shut off engine if it is leaking\gushing.
Once both FrontLeft+RightRear Tensioners are installed proper, do an Oil+Filter change.
Click here for more info on OilPressurizedTimingTensioners for the V6~4.0L~SOHC.
Hopefully this helps.

 

This is GREAT info, thank you! Since I'll be using new crush washers I'll try 32 lb-ft torque and if leaking increase as necessary.

Just want to clarify one step....the "GasPedalToFloor" technique to crank engine w/o starting works on a 2009?

Thanks again!

 

Not sure what year the GasPedalToFloor dead crank feature began on Fords, but yes that works on a 2009 Ranger.
Be aware that if your GasPedal cable is "stretched" & the ThrottleBody does not fully open with PedalToFloor,
the Engine can start, so first time using this function, be prepared to shut off engine if that happens.

 

Perfect, thanks! To be on the safe side can you just disconnect the coil?

 

Yep, that can work too.
But ColdCrank function can be used routinely after vehicle has sat for 24hrs+,
to get oil circulated before actually starting the engine.

 

Thanks!

 

Honestly, I have replaced my tensioners twice without priming them. I have not had any problems because of this. I think it is probably a good idea to crank the engine without firing to prime it, but I am not a fan of priming before installing. I have heard it can cause a problem getting the threads to engage.

The tensioners have a spring in them to apply pressure until oil pressure builds up. So, it is not essential to prime. I would have done the engine crank prime if I had known it is recommended. Actually, I may have done it without knowing it on my second tensioner replacement. I also installed a new high volume oil pump and cranked the engine to make sure it had oil pressure before firing it. I don't think I even had the coil pack installed yet when I did that.

 

Yes, trouble getting the threads to engage and risk cross threading after priming is what I've heard as well. Thanks for the info!

 

Installed the new tensioners today, everything went fairly smooth.

Right rear tensioner was easy, in addition to removing the tire, I did drill a 1" hole in the plastic inner wheel well liner to get a straighter shot with the extension and socket which worked great, had a few old body plugs in my pile of 65-66 Mustang parts which worked perfect to plug the drilled hole. Left tensioner was more challenging but I was able to do it without removing the thermostat housings, other than the throttle body and air intake, only thing else removed was the radiator hose and temp sender. I did have to grind away some of the base on my 27mm deep socket so it would clear the upper intake, socket now looks a little "different" but still works perfectly.

I did decide to not prime the tensioners due to concerns getting the threads to engage but did lube the tensioner shafts with oil and depressed the plungers a few times. After installing did the GasPedalToFloor method to build pressure ~5sec x3. On startup no noises or leaks!

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated!