4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Severe Oil Leak

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Old Dec 24, 2021
  #1  
michaeloberg1980's Avatar
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From: Jefferson
Severe Oil Leak

Hello,

I recently purchased a 2002 Ranger 4.0 sohc 4x4 for my son. I was getting it ready to take it for new tires and noticed a severe oil leak. Like dripping almost a constant stream by the starter. Would this be an oil pan gasket or something more severe? Attached is a video and a picture.



Leak is by the front differential
 
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IMG_5211.MOV (7.80 MB, 90 views)
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Old Dec 24, 2021
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2011Supercab's Avatar
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Video clip looks more like water to me.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021
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Constant stream can't be a gravity leak, i.e. oil pan or valve cover gaskets

Is it motor oil or ATF?

Is the oil level low or is transmission level low

If leak slows down and/or stops when engine is off then its for sure a pressure leak

Best bet is to spray some hot water in there to get as much of the old dried on stuff cleared out so you can see where its leaking
You can put a UV Dye in the oil then the leak point will make a trail back to the place it is coming from
UV Dye can't be seen in regular light, need a UV light or UV flashlight to see it

On drivers side
Could be oil pressure switch
Rear Main seal

Passenger side
Rear main seal
Rear timing chain tensioner
Oil filter or its housing



 
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Old Dec 24, 2021
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From: Jefferson
Originally Posted by RonD
Constant stream can't be a gravity leak, i.e. oil pan or valve cover gaskets

Is it motor oil or ATF?

Is the oil level low or is transmission level low

If leak slows down and/or stops when engine is off then its for sure a pressure leak

Best bet is to spray some hot water in there to get as much of the old dried on stuff cleared out so you can see where its leaking
You can put a UV Dye in the oil then the leak point will make a trail back to the place it is coming from
UV Dye can't be seen in regular light, need a UV light or UV flashlight to see it

On drivers side
Could be oil pressure switch
Rear Main seal

Passenger side
Rear main seal
Rear timing chain tensioner
Oil filter or its housing
It is not a steady stream, rather a drip about every second or two. It only does this when the vehicle is running, and for a while after it is turned off. Oil level isn’t noticeably down, but again I bought this knowing I had to do a little work to it and haven’t drove it more than 15 miles. I haven’t checked the transmission fluid, I will do that. The oil filter is dry all the way around, the guy said he just had the oil changed and is very clean. Odd thing is that it was not doing this when I drove it home and parked it. I check it right before my appointment to have new exhaust and tires installed. Would a rear main leak like that shown in the video? Idk at this point what the heck to do…
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021
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Video didn't work for me

Just a drip can be rear valve cover on that side
Oil pools there when engine is running and then stays there for a bit afterward until it drains back into the pan
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021
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Have same V6~4.0L~SOHC+5r55e+1354 DriveTrain in my 2001 ExST.
I'm only getting audio from your MOV file, no video.
Your pic seems to show oil dripping down around back side of engine & BellHousing, then down around OilPan.
Has the PCVValve ever been changed? Bad\missing\leaking PCVValve\Hoses can cause slight increase in CrankCase pressure
& abnormally force oil out around the RearSeal; learned that the hard way.
Could be a leaking ValveCover; could be a leaking OilFilterAdaptor; could be that RightRearTimingTensioner; could be OilPanGasket?
Could be oil leak combined coolant leak from the notorious PlasticTStatHousing, back thru engine valley & down back side.
Looks like several years of builtup gunk; spray entire bottom side with OrangeCleaner\Windex,
wipe\brush it as clean as you can, then fresh look after each drive. A CarWash with a good bottom spray can help.
 

Last edited by DILLARD000; Dec 24, 2021 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2021
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2011Supercab's Avatar
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try this video, different format, still looks like water or gas to me.
 
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IMG_5211.mp4 (4.54 MB, 62 views)
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Old Dec 25, 2021
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@2011Supercab
Thanks for that video conversion; I likely don't have the proper App\Codec for MOVs.
Yep, that drip looks like clear thin liquid\coolingwater\gasoline, not darker thicker Oil\ATF.
Smell test for gasoline? Is Coolant\Water level dropping in the Radiator?
If not gasoline, suspect the OEM junk PlasticThermoStatHousing; replace with Aluminum version.
Or the junk Plastic HeaterControlValve; again replace with Metal version.
Or the junk Plastic HeaterHoseTee in the 5/16" PCV Coolant Loop across back side of engine to PCVValve in LeftValveCover rear;
again replace with 5/8*5/16*5/8" StainlessBarbedTee(Amazon or Ebay) or delete PCV Coolant Loop (its a useless complication).
 

Last edited by DILLARD000; Dec 25, 2021 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Dec 25, 2021
  #9  
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PS:
I'd be real tempted to wrap the CatCons with heavy chain, after you get new ones installed,
to at least slow the thieves down.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2022
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From: Jefferson
Hello and sorry for the absence. At first glance I just figured it was oil but indeed appears to be Antifreeze. The day I look at this it was freezing :) but after some warmer temps, I looked again. I can tell you the thermostat housing was replaced prior to me purchasing the vehicle. So with that said, since the leak is coming from the rear of the engine, leaking from the bottom driver side, would the likely culprit be the Coolant Loop? Pardon my ignorance, but I know what a PCV Valve is, I didn't realize this component had antifreeze involved??? Where do I find this hose and what options are there:

1. by pass - if so how?
2. replace - if so what is the part number and is it a PITA?

Or as mentioned above, it could be the "Heater Control Valve" but wouldn't that be on the passenger side?

Thank you guys, I appreciate all of the feedback and guidance.

Take care,

Mike
 

Last edited by michaeloberg1980; Jan 14, 2022 at 07:22 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2022
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Originally Posted by michaeloberg1980
...indeed appears to be Antifreeze ...thermostat housing was replaced prior to me purchasing
...leak is coming from the rear of the engine, leaking from the bottom driver side
...likely culprit be the Coolant Loop?
...I know what a PCV Valve is, I didn't realize this component had antifreeze involved
...Where do I find this hose
...what options are there:
1. by pass - if so how?
2. replace - if so what is the part number and is it a PITA?
...could be the "Heater Control Valve" but wouldn't that be on the passenger side?
Coolant leak down back side of engine is likely from one of two sources:
~ ThermoStatHousing pissing in the engine valley under the IntakeManifold; swampy mess that eventually overflows down back of engine.
~ PCVCoolant loop; these are 5/16"ID Coolant Hoses that wrap around the neck of the PCVValve on the back end of the left ValveCover.

Using a good Shop\FlashLight, inspect the ThermoStatHousing & under the INtakeManifold; if you see a swamp, you've found your leak.
From the left side, look at back of left ValveCover (pic below) for two 5/16"ID Coolant Hoses connected to an OxBow around the PCVValve;
I've removed the PCVCoolant loop several years ago without issue. Time to renew the PCVValve (part# EV268) if it's several years old.






 
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Old Jan 14, 2022
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From: Jefferson
Originally Posted by DILLARD000
Coolant leak down back side of engine is likely from one of two sources:
~ ThermoStatHousing pissing in the engine valley under the IntakeManifold; swampy mess that eventually overflows down back of engine.
~ PCVCoolant loop; these are 5/16"ID Coolant Hoses that wrap around the neck of the PCVValve on the back end of the left ValveCover.

Using a good Shop\FlashLight, inspect the ThermoStatHousing & under the INtakeManifold; if you see a swamp, you've found your leak.
From the left side, look at back of left ValveCover (pic below) for two 5/16"ID Coolant Hoses connected to an OxBow around the PCVValve;
I've removed the PCVCoolant loop several years ago without issue. Time to renew the PCVValve (part# EV268) if it's several years old.



Thank you so much! The thermostat housing is new, replaced before I bought the truck. Seems likely to be the PCV valve coolant loop because of the location. When you removed it, did you just put a 5/16 butt connector with two hose clamps to "mate" those coolant lines?

Thanks for the photos, they help soooooo much!

Mike
 
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Old Jan 14, 2022
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No, I removed the entire 5/16"ID PCVCoolant Loop.
There is a Plastic 5/8~5/16~5/8"HoseTee assembly (notorious leaker) near the firewall
& Steel 5/8~5/16~5/8"HoseTee assembly off the right ValveCover, both in the HeaterCore loop;
these both were removed & replaced with stock 5/8"HeaterHose.
Also the smaller 5/16" PCVCoolant loop runs thru a small HeatExchangerFitting on the right side of the IntakeManifold throat,
were the PCVValve Vacuum hose enters the Intake; I removed those 5/16"Hoses & ground those 5/16"Barbs off.
If doing this delete, now is a good time to renew all of the Coolant Hoses+Clamps
& consider replacing the junk Plastic HeaterValve with a Metal version.






 
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Old Jan 14, 2022
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I'd still re-inspect the ThermoStatHousing & under the Manifold;
this is such a well known leaker, just to be sure.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2022
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From: Jefferson
Originally Posted by DILLARD000
I'd still re-inspect the ThermoStatHousing & under the Manifold;
this is such a well known leaker, just to be sure.

well I kind of went ape tonight. I pulled the intake, thermostat housing and replaced the valve cover gaskets. There was a TON of antifreeze under the intake, inches. The housing looks new, but the sensors were spitting a little. Could that cause such a severe drip in the back driver side of the motor? I replaced the PCV valve first and the hoses there were good. I am planning on buying a new housing tomorrow even though this one was supposedly néw. There isn’t any freeze plugs on the block on the back or anything is there? Also if this helps it doesn’t start leaking until it’s warm. I sure hope redoing all of this fixes it. What’s everyone think?

 
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Old Jan 15, 2022
  #16  
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Originally Posted by michaeloberg1980
...pulled the intake, thermostat housing
...replaced the valve cover gaskets
...TON of antifreeze under the intake
...housing looks new, but the sensors were spitting
...Could that cause such a severe drip in the back
...replaced the PCV valve first and the hoses there were good
...buying a new housing tomorrow
...doesn’t start leaking until it’s warm
...hope redoing all of this fixes it
Yep, sounds like you've found the leak.
Makes sense as Cooling system goes from near 0psi cold to >10psi at operating temp.
Hope you're buying an Aluminum ThermoStatHousing to replace the junk Plastic?
Either way, recommend a lite smear of Red PermaTex RTV around TempSensor ORings,
make sure TempSensor MountingClips are tight (cheap Asian sensors come with cheap thin weak wire clips),
a little RTV on TStatHousing~Engine Flange also.
Inspect that 5/8"ID PCVValve~IntakeManifold Tube+HoseElbows assembly; notorious for cracking & vacuum leaks.
Take time to clean+inspect+improve all around as you go, & you should do good.
Consider replacing that FrontLeft OilPressurized TimingTensioner, while you've got good access,
if NOT done recently; should be a production date stamp on the outer end of OEM Tensioners.

Keep us updated.

 

Last edited by DILLARD000; Jan 15, 2022 at 06:31 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2022
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Pic of engines back end; don't see any FreezePlugs.

 

Last edited by DILLARD000; Jan 15, 2022 at 06:32 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2022
  #18  
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From: Jefferson
Thanks everyone, leak is fixed so I moved onto the next project and put new tires on today and at the shop after I bought the tires, the mechanic said I have a broken shackle. I can’t believe this, has anyone ever had one replaced/repaired and if so is that a mechanic or welding fabrication shop? What kind of cost we talking? My son just wants his truck, I feel so bad for him. Thoughts, first pic is the sag, second is the crushed shackle, third is passenger side shackle.

About a two and a half sag on drivers side

Drivers side

Passenger side
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022
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Yes, need to replace the shackles and hangers, all 4 from the looks of the under side rust
Hangers are riveted to the frame so you need to grind the rivet heads off, bolt and nut replaces rivet
And the bolts thru the leaf springs often have to be torched out which can ruin the paint in the bed above because of the heat

For DIY its easier to pull off the bed, 6 bolts(torx 55), 3 screws(filler), and unplug tail light wiring harness, 2 people can easily lift the bed
With bed off all the hangers are easy to work on

If you do it with bed on then run water in the bed above where you are using the torch

Mechanically its just nuts and bolts, and elbow grease, no special knowledge is needed
Need a grinder and minimum propane torch, slow but works
Parts are not expensive
 

Last edited by RonD; Jan 17, 2022 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2022
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From: Jefferson
OK, perfect - I didn't know if this was DIY type project. I ordered new leaf springs, hangers and shackles (Dorman Parts). I will give this a go, I appreciate the advise!

I'll just keep truckin until I get this back on the road.

Mike
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022
  #21  
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From: Jefferson
Originally Posted by RonD
Yes, need to replace the shackles and hangers, all 4 from the looks of the under side rust
Hangers are riveted to the frame so you need to grind the rivet heads off, bolt and nut replaces rivet
And the bolts thru the leaf springs often have to be torched out which can ruin the paint in the bed above because of the heat

For DIY its easier to pull off the bed, 6 bolts(torx 55), 3 screws(filler), and unplug tail light wiring harness, 2 people can easily lift the bed
With bed off all the hangers are easy to work on

If you do it with bed on then run water in the bed above where you are using the torch

Mechanically its just nuts and bolts, and elbow grease, no special knowledge is needed
Need a grinder and minimum propane torch, slow but works
Parts are not expensive
Sitting pretty with new springs, before and after:

Before

After spring replacement and painted the rims.

 
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Old Jan 24, 2022
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Looking good!
Now just take care of that rust below the cab & she'll be ready for the CarShow.
 
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