Who is the ignorant S.O.B. that designed this? Two phillips head screws that are fused to the part. Hammer and flathead to get space to try to use f*cking vice grips. I've never seen such ignorant crap in all my life. What is wrong with a simple hex head bolt that you can slap a socket on? A job that should take 5 minutes can take the rest of your life. They did that with the IAC valve why change?

 

i just replaced mine with #10 philips head screws when I replaced my TPS last month

 

Yeah, it had the phillips head screws on there. On there real good! I've still got one left to rip out. lol. The screws are practically fused to the tps. I just wish it had regular bolts you could throw a socket on. Just venting last night.

 

mine had stupid star screws on there that stripped VERY easy, so i replaced with phillips.but my screws just passed through sleeves in the TPS, it didnt actually screw into the TPS.

 

does anyone know you have to callibrate the TPS

 

didnt know you could, i think you just replace it. I dont think ours is able to be calibrated, but I'm no Ford TPS expert; all i know is that i have replaced mine

 

tps cannot be calibrated, you just replace it, but disconnect the battery and touch the terminals together to clear the KAM and will set everything to default.

 

Please forgive my ignorance as I must ask exactly what terminals do you touch to reset the memory to default?

 

The battery cable terminals, after disconnecting them from the battery.

 

Thank you for the quick reply. Here’s another stupid question I must ask...do you disconnect both the positive and negative from battery or touch the disconnected negative to the positive cable while it’s still attached to battery?

 

Ok. I watched a YouTube video and understand how to do it.

 

Use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 1/4 inch socket or nut driver, get phillips head bit.

~ fin ~

 

Happy Friday All I couldn't agree more, what a bad design, hardware choice, has probably caused so many headaches over the years and still going.
I just wanted to share my experience if it helps anyone else. When I saw how stuck they were, i backed off trying to unscrew with a regular screwdriver an realized it would need substantial "prep" for removing stubborn screws, when screwed into aluminum alloy threads. I sprayed with WD40, left it for a bit, a few gentle taps through a screw driver to help it get in there then I used a 3/8 in drive Phillips bit on a ratchet to really get some torque in there but with more control than a screw driver, more downward pressure can be applied to the screw to avoid stripping, In fact, unless it's already stripped, it's hard to strip like this if your careful, using it like a mini breaker bar, you will just see that you either will move it or it will resist without wanting to strip so much. So I was able to break one loose, unscrew it like this, the other needed more persuasion, adding a small vise grip to the sides of the screw head with the ratchet driver, made it happen finally but with some slight stripping, Now I want to replace with alternative headed fasteners, either hex or allen probably hex. Thoughts?

 

Hex head with a hole in it? Geeze. I took dreamer tool with cutting disc and ground it down straight line so a flat head screw driver will fit and remove them.