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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 01-09-2015
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valve covers

I've been told my valve covers are leaking, so I'm curious if that is a task worth attempting on my own? I'm not a mechanic, but I have done a few things under the hood. My next question is does anyone have a good link to a walk through of it. Oh and its a 2001 4.0 six cylinder sohc. Thank you !
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Old 01-09-2015
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The SOHC is a little more complicated than the OHV engines

You do need a torque wrench with inch pounds vs ft/lb
Also torx set, these are the star shaped bits

But otherwise it is just wrench work and common sense.
Take LOTS OF PICTURES, while we all think we will remember "where that hose or wire goes" we DO forget, pictures are free.

If I remember correctly I have read that the Knock Sensor on the 4.0l SOHC did have issues and it is under the intake manifold which you will be removing.
Not sure if you should replace this just on spec, but I would look at the cost vs the occurrence of problems to decide.

Found this list:
- Disconnect battery
- Degrease Engine
- Remove cover over throttle body (2, Torx screws)
- Remove throttle cables from throttle body as well as sensor connections
- Pull intake tube off of throttle body and remove throttle body from intake manifold (4, 8mm bolts)
- Remove EGR pressure feedback sensor (Just pull it out of the two rubber hoses and disconnect sensor)
- Disconnect EGR Tube nut with Crescent wrench (mine was easy, I took the throttle body off to get space)
- Pull/Bend EGR tube a little to get it out of the "hole".
- Remove EGR vacuum solenoid (one bolt, I broke mine trying to pull the two vacuum hoses off it so be careful)
- Remove vacuum line 90* connection on top of EGR solenoid (I broke mine pulling it apart so be careful, again)
- Various vacuum connections on the intake manifold such as PCV Valve etc.
- Remove Intake Manifold (8, T30 Torx Bolts. Four on the front of the engine and four on the rear, I used a 1/4 inch bit as well as a long (12") and short (4") extension. Did not need to use a swivel. The front four bolts are easily seen. The rear you will have to feel for and the ones closest to the drivers side I had to take the T30 on the 12" extension and feel around for it as I could not fit my hands in the holes between the intake runners or the firewall. The two closest to the passenger side you will be able to feel by reaching from the passenger side with your fingers.

Once you get past that the valve cover on the driver side is pretty cake, just disconnect the electrical connector going to the coil pack (broke this clip), various spark plug wire routing clamps, injector connectors as well as the 8mm bolts on the outside of the valve cover. Make sure to replace the grommets the bolts go into on the valve cover.
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Old 01-09-2015
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Thank you! This is awesome.
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Old 01-09-2015
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You should drain some coolant out before disassembling.
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Old 01-12-2015
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Those directions must be for the OHV engine. I just replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket and some of those instructions are different than what I did. I didn't have to remove the intake manifold and I don't recall removing any Torx bolts. You will need a deep socket for the valve cover bolts. Yes, some coolant has to be drained because the top radiator hose has to come off.

I am not looking forward to replacing the driver side valve cover gasket. Fortunately, it is not leaking yet.
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Old 03-14-2015
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IN2 FX4, the only thing thats really different about the Driver side is a few more connectors, throttle cable, and EGR puckery.

Sounds easier on paper, anyway, eh? heh.
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