Replacing engine in my 1997 Ford ranger. Need to hook up vacume lines. see picture below what hooks to this. I know it is a hose but where does it hook?
Tia Mel

see picture below.

 

Not too familiar with the 4 litre, but that looks like it goes to the EVAP solenoid.
At any rate that's a big vacuum port, with out that connected or blocked off, it's going to run like crap.

 

Yes, it should go to EVAP Canister Purge Valve, CANP on drawings

It is a Ported Vacuum so has low vacuum at idled and higher vacuum when throttle is opened, opposite of intake manifold vacuum

 

can you tell me where the evap can valve is located. I don't have a diagram so am unsure.
TIA
Mel

 

1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid | RockAuto

Here's what it looks like.

 

Thank you that is a big help. Do you know where I can get a drawing of the entire vacumn system? It appears someone has removed the Vac canister purge valve and sensor. The truck was running, but I need everything working to pass emissions test.
Mel

 

Google or someone with a 4 litre of the same year will have to take a picture.
There should be a factory sticker just above the rad showing the routing.
Ford dealer maybe ???

 

Thank You, I have tried google but only got several different diagrams that don't match what I have. Will try ford dealer, but most only go back 10 years. I have a chilton repair manual but it dosen't go into enough detail and no pictures of the vacumn system. Thanks for your time and trouble.
Mel

 

Someone here with a 97 4 litre SOHC will have to help you.
Ron's is 94, Ford kept changing these systems almost every year so a PITA.

 

Ford used a Thermal Resistor with EVAP for a few years, 1997 being one of those years
Called a "thermister", lol, reads vacuum air temp going to Purge valve

Vacuum diagram here for 1997 Ranger 4.0l: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...se_diagram.gif

Look for your charcoal canister on the Rad support, it is a large black box
There should be two hoses on it
One goes back to the gas tank
Other goes to Purge valve
See if you can find the purge valve

 

Mine is a 1997 Ranger LXT with 4wd 4.0L engine OHV V6 with push rods. It is not the SOHC
I took pictures before I pulled the old engine. I bought the truck from a dealer knowing it had a bad engine. I bought a used engine for it and am ready to install it, But found a couple of vac hoses not hooked to anything when I removed the old engine. It appears that someone removed the evap canister and associated parts. Iknow what to look for but cannot find it. It must have been removed. I guess it will run without those parts, but may not pass emissions test. right now the old engine is removed from the truck and the new one is ready to go in. I am holding up installing it until I find out what is missing in the evap system. I should be able to see the canister and evap valve. Will look again. thanks.
Mel

 

Well after reading your post and checking again, I find that mine uses a Thermister System and I found the charcoal canister. and a valve. to dark to see anything else right now, but I think my problem is solved. I have one more vac line to find out where it goes. it comes from a round looking plastic ball, (probably a Vac can) will post pictures tomorrow. Thanks everyone for your help.
Mel

 

Round ball is the vacuum reservoir, one line to the intake manifold and one black(hard plastic) line to the Firewall, it goes thru firewall to the Climate control panel in the cab
The vent selection, i.e. floor/panel/defrost, uses vacuum "motors" to set and hold door positions.
Defrost is default position, so if ever stuck in Defrost it is a sign that vacuum is not present in cab control.
If vent changes to Defrost while accelerating it means vacuum reservoir has a leak and is not holding vacuum to keep vent doors in position selected

There will be a Grey vacuum line next to the Black line at the firewall, that line goes to the Heater hose control valve, it also uses a vacuum "motor" to set COLD/HOT flow to heater core

 

Thanks RonD for the info. I finally got the new engine lined up and installed. Now to hook everything up. I found were the thin hard plastic line goes into the firewall But the other end coming from the round ball is a bigger rubber hose and I can find no place on the intake manifold for it to go. it is long enough to go to the engine or the firewall. Will look some more as I hook everything up and install the intake EFI. What a can of worms. Changing engines is no easy chore. I labeled and took pictures (22 of them), but the line from the round vac tank was hanging free. The engine and wiring harness came from a Ford explorer. So far everything is matching up except the motor mounts which I changed from the old ranger engine.
Mel

 

It might have been "T'ed" with another vacuum hose coming from the intake, follow each line from the intake out, and see if you find an open "T".
And you can always just add a "T", it needs intake vacuum, but you could be leaving a direct vacuum port open if you don't find where it went originally

 

Thank You very much. You have been a great help and it is much appreciated. I am charging the battery now and will see if it will start. I have the engine in and everything hooked up. The engine came out of a wrecked 1997 Explorer and is supposed to be a good engine. Got my fingers crossed. The Vac system and lines were different on the explorer engine and intake manifold, but they serve the same thing, just routed different. It was quite a job changing engines. I haven't r & r a engine in 40 years. I am 78 years old. I installed a new water pump and fresh oil and new anti freeze. I tried to start the engine earlier but the battery was down and the engine was turning over slow. It tried to start, but then the battery quit so I have the charger on it now.
Mel

Update. Got engine started and it is running smooth. will check everything again tomorrow before I take it for safety inspection and emissions test. Thanks again everyone for the help and advise. I am sure I will have more questions later and will start a new thread and post at that time.

 

Good work

Your a brave soul, I always use water after major engine work, or engine swap, lol, I seem to always have a leak somewhere

 

No Leaks so far. of course it has taken a week to get the new engine installed working in the mornings when it was cool. in the old days 40 years ago I could R & R a motor in one day, but I was a lot younger then. I think the last engine I changed was in 76. LoL!