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1994 Ranger 4x4 5.0swap

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Old Dec 17, 2009
  #51  
knightmare1015's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ChrisR1S
Ah ok, so no real progress worth mentioning. Just figuring id drop in so it doesnt look like i quit an ran away hahaha.
I did just order the inside the framerail Transmission crossmember from suicidedoors.com (same piece teddyzee has) and a "built not bought" sticker that im sure i can stick somewhere
kool. Have you decided on what headers and exhaust manifolds to use yet? here's part of a "family owned" secret. I'll get disowned and end up being murdered if I exposed all of it. On your exhaust manifolds port them out to the extreme. That's 1/2 of this family secret. look at my last name on my avatar/profile and think Harley Davidson motorcycles and you'll see what I'm talking about. Ford already guessed one part of it by using a "roller camshaft". the other part is internally and isn't exactly street legal either and that is where I'm told to stop. So bore out the exhaust manifolds from the inside out and you'll notice a big difference in the sound of your engine as well as a noticable power increase. Make sure they put a rifle style bore in the exhaust ports and see if you can get the round ones.
 

Last edited by knightmare1015; Dec 17, 2009 at 10:16 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2010
  #52  
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UPDATE: No major progress due to work and weather. Donor motor was completely pulled and is ready for teardown. Also scored a set of steel GT40s for $400 that im supposed to pick up friday morning. They have new valves and springs that are good to 525lift heads are milled 0.020. owner claims they havent been installed since they came back from the machine shop last month. woohooo! and a few pics

The GT40s:
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The motor awaiting some needed attention:
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Last edited by ChrisR1S; Jan 13, 2010 at 10:31 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2010
  #53  
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Did you mill the intake to fit with the heads milled down?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010
  #54  
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If they are only milled 20 thousand he might be okay without it. I know if you run an efi intake manifold you can go to about 40 thousand without having to mill the intake as well.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010
  #55  
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Im still researching to decide what intake im going to run; so no it(intake) hasnt been milled. Im hoping it will be ok without. How would i know if everything is still within specs? And i do have the heads, just got back from picking them up. well outside i go to make some progress.......
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010
  #56  
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If you bolt the heads to the block then you made the galley a tiny bit bigger that the intake will sit on so there fore you need to take the same amount off the intake for the bolts to line up someone please correct me if i am wrong but i have always been told this and it makes perfect sence. (to me atleast)
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010
  #57  
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It makes sense to me as well. Im going to google it and mayb make some phonecalls and see what i can find out.
But i got the motor stripped down to the block; other than the pan and the timing cover. (Heads that i pulled off have the casting: E7TE, which i believe are E7s, my book isnt infront of me currently!) Transmission & bellhousing were repainted red so they can be sat in place for mock up tomorrow. I have a few pics ill post up either tonight or tomorrow.

Tomorrows goals are:
- snag a non-ac heater box if i can find one
- Have trans and t-case under the truck for mock-up
- put the oil pan and heads on for mock up so i can drill holes for motor mounts. hopefully i can do it and still have enough adjustment for headers when they get here
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010
  #58  
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From: Muncy, PA
hey man im back over here now too lol
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010
  #59  
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Yeah i flilp-flop between here and TRS, member of RPS too just never posted lol. Helps when doing something llike this because i get a lot more comments, feedback, and questions that help me out. ah well back outside to get that trans under the ranger!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010
  #60  
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sweet man take some pics of where it comes though the floor
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010
  #61  
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Alright, well the transmission and the ungodly enormous transfer case are in place. Currently i have the face of the bellhousing resting flush with the firewall until i can get the engine in. rain kinda prevented me from getting that done.

Downey, idk if ill have to slide the transmission around any but as it sits right now the shifter is about i reckon 2inches forward of the stock location.(see pics!)

And here are some pics for the day haha:

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Block turns out to be from an '87 F-150 but the bosses arent drilled so ill just throw a flat tappet cam in it and be happy with the old-school sound

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Stock 4x4 crossmember and the suicidedoors.com crossmember. SD crossmember was well worth the money; everything was perfect, no trimming, drilling, or adjusting was required.

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That bellhousing takes up more room than i imagined it would... Not looking so promising for the tri-y's

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Size:  3.5 KB The fraction of an inch between the framerail and t-case. Case may come back out for some grinding

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Clearance from the top of the T-case to the floor pan

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If it slides back some i'm going to have to go with a fuel cell....

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Shifter location from the bottom

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from above

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and again

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Trans flush with firewall

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another angle

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oil pressure sender? located between oil filter and location for mech. fuel pump

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loosely on for mock up. real nice piece

questions, comments, suggestions??
 
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