Hi everyone. I have a 2001 ranger edge 4X4 I did the v8 swap I followed Nathaniel V Hunter 2001 Ranger 5.0 swap wiring manual, I added the PATS from the 98 Explorer and the Ignition switch from the Explorer and the PATS transceiver from the Explorer, I can't seem to get this thing running, I get anti theft light that blinks,I can't hear the fuel pump at all, Motor will not turn over, I did use the wiring harness from the Explorer that was attached to the motor, also Nathaniel talks about grounding the solenoid ? he said disconnect db/og wire, circuit 325 (starter relay control) from pin #28, c110 on the ranger harness, connect this wire to the ground terminal on the battery, If you could kindly help me out here I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Anti-theft light that Flashes Rapidly with key on means PATS test failed.

I assume you are using a previously working PATS key from the Explorer.
PATS keys each have unique ID inside, Computer has the 3 original keys, that came with new vehicle, in its memory, so only those 3 keys can start engine.

I also assume Automatic trans, it will have a Digital Range sensor on the Shift linkage, it needs to be hooked up so computer "knows" trans is in Park or Neutral or it won't activate starter motor.

The Starter relay can be by passed by Grounding it , but.................
If you can't hear the fuel pump then won't do you any good

First mystery to solve is the PATS(anti-theft light) issue.
PATS disables fuel pump AND fuel injectors, on some years also the start motor relay, by not grounding it.
So grounding starter relay may not be needed and for sure won't solve the no fuel issue

Yes, Dark Blue/Orange stripe wire on starter relay(in engine fuse box) is the Ground for that relay, Computer Grounds that wire if PATS accepts/passes the key in the ignition

 

Okay Thank you, I'll double check things to make sure that I hooked up all the wires right on the PATS, and yes keys and PATS were working in the Explorer, and it is an automatic trans, I'll check the plug on the transmission to make sure I did that right....Thanks again for your help.

 

Hi Ron, so I got the Pats working the theft light goes off and I have fuel pressure going to the fuel rail, but still won't turn over any idea?.....Thank you

 

Won't turn over means Starter Motor doesn't work right?

Some use "won't turn over" to mean won't start up.

This PDF is the starter circuit for 1998 Explorer V8
There is a Clutch Pedal Jumper that may have been missed or disconnected

Rangers and explorers are wired for Manual and Automatic transmissions.
Autos get a By-pass jumper inserted into the Clutch Pedal Neutral switch connector, it is just above where clutch pedal would be.

And according to this diagram there is no Starter Motor cut off with 1998 PATS.
Only later years had that.

 

Yes it is a automatic .....Thanks I'll give it a try.

 

Hi Ron I added the jumper wire and still nothing, I have 55 psi at the fuel rail any Idea?

 

In the starter diagram you will see the Yellow/light blue wire than comes from the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box and goes to the smaller terminal on the starter motor.

First make sure that wire is on the starter motor and connected, if not then thats your problem.

If it is there then MAKE SURE wheels are blocked and Trans in is PARK!!!!!

Connect long jumper wire to that Yellow/light blue wire terminal on starter motor.
Turn on the key
Touch that jumper wire to Battery positive terminal, starter motor will activate if it is connected to battery and Ground cable for battery is good
Remove jumper wire from battery terminal to stop starter motor

If that works then starter motor is good, so problem is in the activation pathway
Bad starter relay
Bad Transmission Neutral switch
Unhooked wire

 

Hi Ron...So I did as you instructed me to and It fired right up by jumping the starter wire, but now I have to troubleshoot the other things you mention, now I have to replace the catalytic converter it was fire engine red with flames coming out....lol....any Idea what would cause that?.....Once again thank you very much for all of your help.

 

Engine was running much much too rich
Cat converter gets hotter when there is unburned gasoline in the exhaust, the more unburned gas the hotter it gets.

You tested fuel pressure so I assume you have a gauge for that.
Fuel pressure should hold above 50psi for a few MONTHS after engine is shut off, not minutes, hours or days...........MONTHS.
So check if you are losing pressure after key is shut off.
If you are then could be an injector is leaking fuel into the engine.


I would start with Starter Relay, pull it out
Diagram here of relay pins and slots: http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced...%20Picture.jpg

Yes relays are numbered weird, lol
Slot/pin 30 should be from the 50 amp fuse in engine fuse box, so will have 12volts all the time, test that.

slot 87 could also have 12volts all the time if 30 doesn't.

30 and 87 are the Load pins in the relay, when relay is closed power passes thru these pins.

85 and 86 are the relay's coil connections, one will be a Ground, so test that one IS a ground.
The other one will, should, show 12volts when key is turn all the way to START.
When you pass power thru a coil of wire it becomes a magnet, thats how a relay works, when power is passed thru the coil is PULLS DOWN the metal arm connected to pin 30, and connects that arm to 87, so power flows thru to the LOAD.
It takes less than 1/2 an amp on 85/86 to "close" the relay, and the relay's LOAD part can pass up to 30amps.
Thats what 12volt 30amp relay mean, you need 12volts to activate(close) it, and it can handle a 30amp LOAD.
You can get 12v 60amp relays, or 5v 20amp relays

Anyway test the relay slots.

Then the Tan wire at transmission switch, with relay plugged back in the tan wire should be a Ground, test for that

 

I'll check it out and see if I have any luck....Keep you posted...Thanks again for all of your help.

 

The fuel system of a 2001 Ranger is constant pressure returnless with pressure regulation in tank.

The fuel system of a 1998 Explorer is variable pressure return-fuel with regulation at the fuel rail outlet.

To run the 98 Ex computer/injectors/regulator, you must have a return line to the fuel tank as used on the Explorer through 1998. This system provides a variable pressure based on engine vacuum. About 30 PSI at idle (20" vacuum at sea level) up to roughly 40 PSI at WOT (zero vacuum).

The 01 Ranger had no return line so pressure spec is about 65 PSI as regulated at the fuel tank. The pressure remains nearly constant regardless of engine vacuum or RPM. This would give you about double what the 98 Ex system should have at idle. That also means there is about double the correct fuel flow rate for the same injector pulse width.

If it has not already been done, the system will need the addition of the earlier Ranger/Explorer return line to allow those pressures to drop down to the design level of the 98 Ex injectors and PCM calibration.

 

Hi Ron,I have another question ? I did a v8 swap 5.0 from a 1998 ford explorer into a 2001 ford Ranger edge, I used the wiring from the explorer engine and hooked it into the ranger, The problem that I'm having is the voltage from the alternator. I have 11.7 volts on the light green and red wire I have no voltage from the yellow and white wire, and with the engine not running I check the batter and it reads 12.5 volts with the engine running it drops down to 11.7, should the yellow and white wire have voltage?....and if so can I add a hot wire to that?

 

Hi, don't know if this will help but I put a 97 302 from a mountaineer in a 98 ranger and I only remember 2 wires from alternator, I could be wrong, but one went to a ground at c115 and the other went to I think pin 42 on c115 ...cant remember a third wire. the write up is on a site called..putting a 5.0 in a 98 or newer ranger, good helpful site

 

Thanks Bill I will give it a try.

 

Yep, whats funny is my 98 doesn't have the pats but it has 2 relays in starting circuit, one is starter interrupt and I forget the name of the other...well when I would turn key to start the motor all went dark in my cab? I ran a jumper wire to starter relay but was told pcm could sense this and wouldn't like it. so I found the hot wire at range selector switch at trans, aka, neutral safety and she would start. several mths later I felt I should find the circuit and have it wired right, so I cut the jumper wire turned the key to get voltage so I could follow it and she cranked and started? I feel she is a slow learner...yesterday I followed Ron ds advice for relearning pcm and it worked. this morning I went to get coffee and started her up and the idle dropped and stalled, fired it up again, stalled, 3rd time she idled low but ran so I'm going to try to let her learn at her own pace? good luck with your swap, the work is worth the fun of driving them

 

Light green wire should only have voltage with key ON, that's the Battery light circuit.

B+ wire and Yellow wire should have battery voltage all the time, test with key OFF.
B+ wire is often hooked to battery with MEGA fuse or fusible link
Yellow wire can be 15amp fuse(ALT fuse in engine fuse box) or fusible link to B+ wire.
You can "hot wire" yellow wire to B+ terminal using 15amp inline fuse


White jumper wire doesn't need to be tested yet.

When you start engine battery voltage should be 2 volts above where it was with key off
so 12.5 volts should now read 14.5volts up to 14.9volts, should stay below 15volts

The almost 1 volt drop from 12.5 to 11.7 is a bit confusing, unless heater fan was on high that is not a typical drop, it is too much


Here is Ford charging system for 1998, PDF below

NCA on the B+ wire means "no color assigned", so different models would use different colored wires for that connection
And usually it is a 15amp fuse for yellow but can be 30amp if they used a bigger wire

 

Thanks Ron ,it worked, you're amazing, Have a Happy New Year.

 

Good work

Happy New year

 

Hi Ron,I have another question ? I did a v8 swap 5.0 from a 1998 ford explorer into a 2001 ford Ranger edge 4x4, I swap out from the 1998 Explorer AWD the abs module and G-force transceiver, This is what I did. I: remove the ABS module from the ranger, its connector is connector C135.

II: mount the explorer “G-Force Transducer” to the ranger. It mounts on the drivers side frame rail directly next to the fuel pump. Its connector is connector C312.

III: there are three wires coming from the “G-Force Transducer”, an OG/BK wire circuit # 886, a YE wire circuit # 887, and an OG/WH wire circuit # 836. These three wires need to be extended all the way to the ABS connector C135.

IV: connect the OG/BK wire circuit # 886, to pin #14 on C135. This pin on the connector will be empty.

V: connect the YE wire, circuit # 887 to pin # 13 on C135. you will have to disconnect the wire that is currently there, it is the brake pressure switch and will no longer be needed.

VI: connect the OG/WH wire, circuit # 836 to pin #1 on connector C135. This pin on the connector will be empty.

VII: pin # 19 on connector C135 is the VSS signal output, circuit # C679. Connect a GY/BK wire to pin # 19 on connector C135 and splice it into pin # 32 on connector C146 (the grey firewall connector). This will tie the new conditioned VSS signal into all the other systems.

VIII: plug the explorer 4WABS module into connector C135 and bolt the module onto the ABS system.

…although I figured out how to wire in this system, credit goes to NICE for identifying why the speedometer was not functioning.

The problem that I'm having is the ABS light stays on and the truck will not go into gear, it starts and runs ok, it went into gear fine before I change out the ABS. I did put new brakes on and bleed them...Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong?