This question is for Ron D, or anyone that thinks they know the answer...I have a neighbor who owned a explorer and watched me do my 5.0 swap. We talk cars now and then and he talks about the ford 5.0 and says there was the motor they built for cars and then the one they built for explorers and truck..says they made a short block for cars and a long block for more torque in trucks..i know the difference between a big block and small block, but to my knowledge ford simply put different heads, cam, intake in mustang motor as opposed to the one I have, or am I wrong?

 

302/5.0l was a very versatile engine, and had many configurations since 1968
It started off with 9.5:1 compression ratio and rated 220HP with 2-barrel carb and 250HP with 4-barrel
Shelby built a 1968 model with 315HP for the Shelby GT350
'69/'70 Boss 302 Mustangs got Cleveland heads, on a 302 "racing block", rated at 310HP with electric limiter installed
A rebuild of this engine in 2010 with no limiter, got up to 372HP

Over the years emissions standards caused the drop to 9.0:1 compression ratio and drop to about 200HP with EFI
GT40 heads were added to get up to 215HP, these were used on both Mustangs and trucks

The truck purposed engines did/do use different cams for more torque and less HP, but thats the same for all engines, 4.0l OHV had higher HP for mustang use and less torque than same 4.0l used in Rangers.

302/5.0l is one of the better engines to have since there are so many options to tailor make it for personal use
More HP or more torque

Intake designs are specific to use as well, a runner is the air intake tube for an intake valves port in the head.
Runner length is important to scavenge extra power, similar to how headers work to scavenge power using exhaust pulses.
When an intake valve closes the air flow stops suddenly this creates a bounce back wave that travels up the runner, it then hits the "end" of the runner and bounces back towards the valve, if this wave hits the valve just as it opens it acts like a "mini" turbo/super charger, by pushing more air/fuel into the cylinder, it would be RPM range specific, but still free boost, lol.
Just like headers the design of this is well above my pay grade.

So intake design, exhaust design and cam design are all part of HP and torque and when in the RPM range you get the best HP and best torque
Most cars want best power at higher speeds
Trucks want it at lower speeds

 

Yes I get what ur saying, if I'm reading u right they only made 1 block for 302/5.0, not one for cars and a longer block for trucks.

 

302/5.0l blocks were all the same length
Boss 302 used a Ford Racing block, which had 4 bolt mains but was the same length
Standard 302 uses 2 bolt mains

Ford did have long and short nose water pumps, but block was the same, most long nose were used on trucks so fan was closer to Rad support/rad, OVERALL engine dimensions would be a few inches longer, maybe thats what has has read

 

That's what I thought. I just agree with him to keep the peace....lol

 

Called summit, he said the shaft is called a double d shaft, said it's common. Asked me wat is at other end. I said it's the ..I said square..maybe it isnt. He said summit doesn't deal in square ends. He said I should get 2 double d u joints..put one at steering input or bottom the one up top and some steering shaft in between.

 

Ok, I saw a dd shaft on summit site and it doesn't look like my shaft at steering rack. Describes it to another tech and he said it's called a mustang paramyd shaft. If I get a single u joint aND the make a short d haft and then a dd uu joint at top the Mustang u joint is $121.00 and that's not the rest of the parts. If I do all this and still hav slop in my steering I'll be like..wtf

 

I was talking to a younger guy at work and he was saying if I was to put headers on my 5.0 I'd have to get it tuned by a shop or it won't run right due to more air going out as opposed to coming in?

 

IMHO... If you are talking about a 302 W with a carburetor, maybe, mostly dependent on how the original tune was done. Most stock engines actual benefit with increase breathing, more torque and HP with just the addition of headers, nothing else.
If you are talking a 5.0L W, the computer should compensate for headers, even a cam change wouldn't be a problem.
Headers wake up a stock 302W !

 

It's a efi 302 out of a 97 mountaineer, never been to a tune shop...runs pretty decent but I'm curious how it will run if those factory manifolds aren't holding it back just a lil. Thanks for ur input

 

First, all of my small block Fords would come alive with a set of headers and a free flowing exhaust. Headers were always one of the first things I would do.

The tuning I was referencing was how you setup a carb, some people used set them up a little lean and some to the rich side, so sometimes by adding headers it would straighten things out some. With EFI the computer does the tuning and the Mass Air Computer adjust to modifications better.

Installing full length headers in a 4x Ranger is almost impossible, maybe through the fender wells, so we are stuck with shorty headers, not much better than good flowing factory exhaust manifolds... ! Decent Shorty Header, like L&L Products, are designed for V-8 Conversions and usually will add something to the output of the engine but adding a good free flowing system after the headers makes for s few extra HP too; just don't go too big on the pipes.

Now if we were talking changing up the cam... !

 

No the cam stays factory, I found 2 sets of shorty headers which I'm going to try on it this weekend. the lower steering shaft must come off as will factory manifold. ive read that the factory explorer manifolds are very restrictive and it is very skinny. even if the headers fits without too much grinding here or there, I'm certain the steering shaft isn't going to fit. little modifying ive been told I must do. ive been told guys that stuff the fat 4.6 in my year or newer come up with some interesting changes to the steering shaft. I know if I got nuts and did a solid axle swap and put old style steering on her it would move the shaft more. I guess ill find out Saturday. its just going to be a test fit.

 

oh the pipes are 2.5 inches right now, no cats , h pipe, and dual flowmaster 44s..she has a nice sound to her ive been told

 

Again, my opinion only... : The stock factory headers on an Explorer are junk at best; there are bends in the pipe that are almost crimped together.
Find a set of shorty headers made by a good manufacturer; that way if there is torque/HP to be made they will find it ! L&L Products make some great headers, others too.

Good Headers will change the sound some, more of a flow of notes rather than just a rumble and you can hear the exhaust pulse hitting the pipe.

2.5" pipe is too big for 5.0L Dual Exhaust but that is what everyone uses, 2.25 is in my book.

A second thought... if you need to remove the lower steering shaft to install headers, make they are the ones you will be keeping, no sense doing more work if you don't like them.

I have only seen one 4.6 in a Ranger, up close, and IT IS TIGHT, too much in my opinion, restructuring of the engine bay required.
The 5.0 L was made for a Ranger, great power, lots of Power add-ons, and pretty cheap in overall cost !
My first 5.0L in an '88 Ranger was done with a good Mechanic for a lead guy, makes all the difference in the world having a mechanic/friend close by to help ! That little Ranger almost flew, with L&L Product Headers, Dyno-Max Mufflers, dual 2.25" pipes, no cats, it sounded better than most Stangs in the area. Would wind up so quick, blew a lot of people's minds at the lights. Even if I didn't beat them out there would be so much smoke... like that !

So, what are you actually building ? I just got back to the site after a long absence, and haven't followed anyone yet.
You mentioned a 5.0 swap, solid axle... new steering, just wondering what and where you are in this swap ?

ltr

 

Hi, I definetly like the headers I got. I found a second set that are factory mustang manifold headers. they have the same crimp and bend as the 5.0 manifold but go to 1.5 inches quickly and were cheap so I got them figuring if they don't fit or the other ones don't fit I can sell them. the truck is a 98 ranger ext cab 4x4 that isn't everyday driver but so fun to drive. ive had it on road for I think a year and a half. I kinda joked about sas because when u go solid axle u get the old style steering gear..box, drag link, pitman arm etc..a guy on u tube has one newer than mine and he has shorty headers but he also has 18 inch lift, sas, and he put the steering box on left front frame rail outside the rail and so his steering shaft goes away from headers. I agree the 5.0 is perfect for ranger, not a 4.6 guy but to each his own. I put the motor in from a 97 mountaineer as whole drivetrain..motor, tranny, awd transfer, and wiring and ecu. I had a lot of bugs to iron out but she is running pretty decent right now. had some issues earlier last month but they went away. so as I said the steering thing is in part because my steering is rather loose and was told my u joint at intermediate shaft may go? I'm looking into that but trying to adjust it for headers. and I completely agree the factory explorer manifolds are junk and restrictive. ur truck sounds pretty cool

 

Well, my shorty headers actually fit somewat. They r ball n flange at bottom and flange is going away. Too tight and I can put a pipe on, welded of corse and that will work for me. The steering will need modified some. Lol, to change spark plugs the header will have to come off..I swear I read somewhere years ago that someone had that issue with their headers. I'm actually surprised the header fit being gt40p heads

 

Well to get steering around header, I'm guessing a u joint where body lift spacer is at, then some shaft going to frame rail close to rack. a collar bearing to support it, a u joint and then connect whats left of lower shaft. I can make something, and if it actually works put headers together....or is there an easier way?

 

I'm seriously thinking about goin to a u pull it and getting the steering stuff from an old truck, ranger if I could. It might be easier. Another Lil issue is the collector on header is aimed right at front differential support bracket on frame...the muffler guy that makes my front pipes is gonna just love me..lol

 

What years if any did ranger hav a steering box, pitman arm, drag link, idler arm ?

 

Ok, now I'm a bit mixed up. I've looked on my phone for steering system for say 95 ranger and it shows me a rack n pinion I'm looking at lmc trucks book for rangers...it says 4x4 ranger up to 97 and shows all the old stuff minus a gear box, that's sold by itself. My guess is that's a big reason headers can be bought for 97 and older but not mine. No steering shaft in the way...am I wrong in this?

 

The more I think about it I'm going with the old steering setup. Either way I'm looking at a couple hundred in parts...the old school setup will keep steering shaft straight. And if I ever wanna go sas I'll hav the steering part already..lol

 

I was reading a thread on another forum where a guy wanted to put rack n pinion on a twin I beam ranger and was told it wont work...is the opposite also true...if your have ifs and try to put box, pitman arm and so forth, will this work or no...?