aight ill cheack all of that.

Went to house today and me and the bro in law (stang guy) workind on it. Sealed up the small crack in the upper intake. checked all vac connections and all are good. once again no vac leaks..

he did mention that pulse damper and vacuum, that even though the ecm is adjusted it might not be adjusted for all pulses. Ill look into that.

Also, going to JY to find a stock airbox to try. We both noticed that the fan is blowing all of its air at the air filter. and with the hood closed thats like forcing a ton of air at the filter and could be messing with the MAF readings at idle..

flangeAlso i dunno why but it seems i have an exhaust leak from the s of the headers. really sucks. gonna get som header sealant and just run a bead around the flange.

Cleared codes and drove 30 miles home. NO CEL's but at it still lopes and surges at idle so my problem still exists.

FML. so frustrating

 

Actually, there is no adjustment that can be made. The damper is there to cancel pressure waves in the fuel rail that can influence individual injector flow. If the damper diaphragm ever ruptured, the vacuum line will suck fuel into the intake manifold and severely richen the mixture. That effect is worse at idle when vacuum is high and airflow is low. It's a long shot but the damper diaphagms do sometimes break, so it's just one more thing to cross off the list.

 

So i am officially sick of ym truck. This intermitten run good run like crap is getting old. very cose to regretting hole deal. still idleing like crap..sometimes. tried using permatex copper gasket to seal exhaust leak, didnt use enough cuz its still there. on both sides. close to puttin stock headers back on. pulled new code the other day p1121 along with the same 1132 and 1152. But i think it only came on cuz i was testing stuff the otherday and unplugged the MAF while it was running. havent goten to JY for stock airbox but ive rigger nigged up one for now out of a shoebox... sad i know. if anyone wants to trade and work out the bugs i could be down lol

 

That sucks, there has to be something you are missing. I'm sure you know that, but no one around you can figure it out?

 

wow this sucks to hear

 

do a 3.0 swap\

 

Wirelessly posted

I got first dibs on the Torque Monster headers!

 

lol ya thats the answer!

 

hmmm... this sucks... Wish I were in town, have a few friends with 5.0 rustang drag cars that could take a look... Drag it out to moroso on a wed or friday night for test and tune, find some of the old guys running 5.0's and tell them whats going on. Probably gonna tell you to take it to 50 different shops but hopefully someone can come up with something no one else has suggested.

 

No input to cheer you up just onward.
It sucks when things don’t go right the first time.
I wish I had more experience to help you out.

Some thoughts: (just me thinking out loud so ignore if you want to)
1) When the guy tuned the computer, was it in the truck and did the truck run ok then ?
2) Are you running the Exhaust Recirculating Setup on the Intake ?
3) The Fuel Pressure (63 psi) is that OEM Pressure, I always thought it was suppose to be around 45 psi ?
4) What Injectors are you running ?
5) Did you change the Cam, what are you running ?

Good Luck,

 

Check, double check, triple check your electrical stuff... That to me would be the most obvious place for a mistake....

 

bastard! i want

 

well it still idles like sh't and eats fuel. last night on the way to hockey it drove great and loped some more at idle then wehn i get to the rink it starts idleing at 700rpms and sounds like its barely on but shakes like a *****. Tryed again to seal up leak so i think this weeks project is to replace TM headers with stock ones. really blows. Right now they still rub the steering shaft, and on the passenger side the engine is so far to the right they are resting on the shock bucket and A-arm mount. So im wondering if the vibrations of the engine and the frame contact etc are whats cause the exhaust leak. Plus i really dont like the fact that it does that cuz it has to account for steering. First time i wish i didnt have a body lift. lol But 35''s are better This is so frustrating but at least for all of yall you can learn from my tribulations haha. as far as the cam is concerned its not the problem. The truck was tuned on a dyno the whole nine yards. ran sick when i picked her up and just as started to decline. there for not tuning issue. Truck still barely starts up without feathering the clutch. And maybe if this helps all you guru's out there when i put it from reverse or drive into Park she 99% revs to about 2k and drops smoothly and just shuts off. so thats my updates. sorry its taking so long but it succkssss.

 

have you checked all the injectors?

 

You should join southfloridastangs.net and make a thread on there. It's the big fl mustang forum so there will probably be people that can give you advice or maybe take a look at it too

 

that would probably be your best bet

 

I am ready for a new project.....I'm willing to trade title for title...Just an offer

 

hmmmmm

 

Mark, you're so close to getting this thing perfect. Until you've exhausted every possible solution, don't trade it.

 

Did you ever check any of this stuff? I asked about this before but haven't heard back.


Other ideas:

Is the PCV valve connected to vacuum and plugged into the grommet in the back of the lower intake? Also, the small PCV closure hose from the oil filler neck to the large fresh air tube between the MAF and the throttle body?

How about your stock 3.0 Vapor Management Valve? It is a black plastic valve below the ABS hydraulic unit. There should be a vent line coming forward from the fuel tank plus 2 vacuum lines (large and small) over to the 5.0L upper intake manifold. Also an electrical connector. This is the same basic evap setup as the 99~01 Explorer, so everything should connect up easily enough.

 

Bob,

If i unplug the MAF it stalls. PCV valve is good, checked that and the vapor management lines are connected all correctly as well.

Trading is a possible option. I would of course work on her some more then go from there.

 

"P1132 bank (1) (Cylinder #1) and P1152 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition. The HO2S voltage is greater than 0.45 volt."

After doing a lot more looking on stang and ford forums etc more and more its pointing to the exhaust leak. I have checked off mostly everything else to check. and since the sound is comin from both sides that explains both 02's throwin codes... change over to stock headers and well see.

 

Possible causes:

Fuel system - CHECKED

-- Excessive fuel pressure.
-- Leaking fuel injector(s).
-- Leaking fuel pressure regulator.
-- Low fuel pressure.
-- Contaminated injector(s)

Induction system- CHECKED

-- Air leaks after the MAF.
-- Vacuum leaks.
-- Restricted air inlet.
-- PCV system.
-- Fuel purge system.
-- Improperly seated dip stick.

EGR - COMPLETELY REMOVED

-- Leaking gasket.
-- Stuck open EGR valve.
-- Leaking diaphragm.

Base engine - 50% CHECKED

-- Oil overfill. ?? could be possible
-- Cam timing.
-- Cylinder compression.
-- Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss. - I know there is one.

l Check air intake for leaks, obstructions and damage.
l Check air filter, air filter housing for blockage.
l Verify integrity of the PCV system.
l Check for vacuum leaks.

 

i would try and put the stock manifolds back on and get rid of the exhaust leak. this way you are eliminating one more thing

 

thats the plan