5.0L plans
#152
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Location: Loxahatchee, FL
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got the crank pulley pulled n timing chain cover off tonight. had a softball game to go to and boozed after so didnt have too much time lol. timing chain def needs replacing. thought i had one in the garage but aparently the stang 50 uses diff sprockets and chains.. oh well. thats pretty much it for today unfortunately
#153
There are different types of chains, but it should still work, the only differences I know of were back in the early days where it depended on if you had a 1 or 2 piece eccentric for the fuel pump.
But it could be a non-roller chain stock, and most after market ones are double roller. The look nothing alike, but both will work.
But it could be a non-roller chain stock, and most after market ones are double roller. The look nothing alike, but both will work.
#154
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got some work done on the heads tonight. Its way more simple than i thought. theres really not much to take off, mainly smooth. Def a good lip from casting in the bowls but thats really the main thing. guess i have to order my Trick Flow springs soon. Trying to order and purchase in order of need and steps so guess thats the next thing lol
#155
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#156
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#157
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#158
It's mostly a process of elimination and having the Wiring Manual helps a lot. Let me know if you have trouble IDing any of the connectors or sensors.
The 42-pin connection between the Ranger engine bay harness and the 5.0 engine harness will probably be a strained one. At least it was on mine. I rerouted it and got it to connect but I'm going to add about a foot to one or the other harness to make it 'right'.
You can see the wire bundle running from under the master cylinder across the corner of the upper intake in this picture:
The 42-pin connection between the Ranger engine bay harness and the 5.0 engine harness will probably be a strained one. At least it was on mine. I rerouted it and got it to connect but I'm going to add about a foot to one or the other harness to make it 'right'.
You can see the wire bundle running from under the master cylinder across the corner of the upper intake in this picture:
Last edited by V8 Level II; 11-21-2009 at 03:35 PM.
#159
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If you did what i did.. I had a 2wd 4R70W(also known as an AODE)transmission from an explorer and i used the AA adapter. The smaller output shaft from the AA kit replaced the LONG outputshaft like the one in your picture. This keeps your 4x4 if you have it....
If you dont want to run the 4x4 transfercase and just keep it 2wd then your transmission SHOULD bolt right into place on your ranger BUT you will need the driveshaft from an 2wd explorer.
If you dont want to run the 4x4 transfercase and just keep it 2wd then your transmission SHOULD bolt right into place on your ranger BUT you will need the driveshaft from an 2wd explorer.
#160
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Here is the AA Kit with the new ouput shaft installed on the 2wd 4R70W tranny:
And here is a picture of the AA ADAPTER installed on the tranny but the 2wd output shaft is still on
Another angle
That AA adapter(part that fits around the output shaft) has the same mounting points as the 2wd adapter, so using the Explorer 2wd driveshaft should bolt right up without any modifications but say goodbye to 4wd :(
And here is a picture of the AA ADAPTER installed on the tranny but the 2wd output shaft is still on
Another angle
That AA adapter(part that fits around the output shaft) has the same mounting points as the 2wd adapter, so using the Explorer 2wd driveshaft should bolt right up without any modifications but say goodbye to 4wd :(
#161
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It's mostly a process of elimination and having the Wiring Manual helps a lot. Let me know if you have trouble IDing any of the connectors or sensors.
The 42-pin connection between the Ranger engine bay harness and the 5.0 engine harness will probably be a strained one. At least it was on mine. I rerouted it and got it to connect but I'm going to add about a foot to one or the other harness to make it 'right'.
You can see the wire bundle running from under the master cylinder across the corner of the upper intake in this picture:
The 42-pin connection between the Ranger engine bay harness and the 5.0 engine harness will probably be a strained one. At least it was on mine. I rerouted it and got it to connect but I'm going to add about a foot to one or the other harness to make it 'right'.
You can see the wire bundle running from under the master cylinder across the corner of the upper intake in this picture:
#162
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soo no body wants to help a brotha out with that wiring harness labeling huh lol LEts try and label it bigger and better lol
1. Truck Harness plug
2. ECM plug with ground
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. Looks like Alternator
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Injector plugs are not labeled
1. Truck Harness plug
2. ECM plug with ground
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. Looks like Alternator
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Injector plugs are not labeled
Last edited by mlw20lu; 11-23-2009 at 12:31 PM.
#163
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soo no body wants to help a brotha out with that wiring harness labeling huh lol LEts try and label it bigger and better lol
1. Truck Harness plug
2. ECM plug with ground
3.NOS
4.TURBO TIMER
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. Looks like Alternator
10.
11.BOOST REGULATOR
12.
13.WIDEBAND O2 sensor
14.
15.headlight fluid level sensor
Injector plugs are not labeled
1. Truck Harness plug
2. ECM plug with ground
3.NOS
4.TURBO TIMER
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. Looks like Alternator
10.
11.BOOST REGULATOR
12.
13.WIDEBAND O2 sensor
14.
15.headlight fluid level sensor
Injector plugs are not labeled
#164
1. connector to transmission subharness
2. PCM plug with ground
3. EGR vacuum regulator solenoid
4. DPFE sensor
5. driver side front O2 sensor
6. oil pressure switch
between 6 and 7: crankshaft position sensor
7. engine coolant temp sensor for PCM
8. camshaft position sensor
9. driver side coil pack and radio suppression capacitor
10. engine coolant temp sender for temp gauge
11. connector to engine bay harness
12. throttle position sensor
13. MAF/IAT sensors
14. alternator
15. passenger side coil pack
between 12 and 15: IAC valve
#165
Why bother with the labeling? The connectors are keyed to each component and cut to length already. It is very straight forward once you get started. Now, be very careful with interchange. The harness and computer are slightly different for 96, 97, 98, and 99-01. so, there are 4 versions out there. You need a manual for the harness and computer you are using.
Also, keep in mind there are two types of cam position sensors and two types of MAF. The cam sensor has a 2 and 3 wire version and the MAF has a integral IAT or external IAT. These should be keyed to the harness you have.
Also, keep in mind there are two types of cam position sensors and two types of MAF. The cam sensor has a 2 and 3 wire version and the MAF has a integral IAT or external IAT. These should be keyed to the harness you have.
#166
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^ appriciate the input but already ahead on that part of the game. thanks Bob big help as always! Got done Porting my heads today!! WOW what a difference. Still need to do some smoothing with the rolls but thats pretty much it.
Anyone want to donate any of the following which is left for the engine:
Fan
Belt
Pulley
Fuel Rail/ Injectors
Starter
ECM
Torque Monster Headers
Anyone want to donate any of the following which is left for the engine:
Fan
Belt
Pulley
Fuel Rail/ Injectors
Starter
ECM
Torque Monster Headers
#167
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also broke my egr tube movin junk around. SO back on the idea of deleting that. then i can run my intake spacer and valve covers and not worry bout extending that.
Also, The A-holes that removed the enging torched everything out. So i have an Engine mount bolt torched off right about the block. FUN..and I have on of my lower intake bolts snap and the remander is about 1/3" out of the head. So any tips on removing those would be great! lol
Also, The A-holes that removed the enging torched everything out. So i have an Engine mount bolt torched off right about the block. FUN..and I have on of my lower intake bolts snap and the remander is about 1/3" out of the head. So any tips on removing those would be great! lol
#169
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back on topic of transmissions. decided to def run the 4r70w and just not hook up 4wd obvisously. However I right now have 2 choices, install an auto column or do it cool and install a console shifter. Does anyone have any ideas? possibly out of a taurus or a lincoln mark lt? I have buckets now and custom woodwork and fiberglass is easy for me so im not worried about building a console around it. but wiring and actual shifter function is my concern.
ANY IDEAS?
ANY IDEAS?
Last edited by mlw20lu; 12-09-2009 at 03:50 PM. Reason: misspell
#170
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courtesy of Wikipedia heres a list of vehiles with the AODE 4r70w
Applications:
1993–2003 Ford F-Series
1994–1997 Ford Thunderbird
1995–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
1995–2004 Ford Crown Victoria
1996–2001 Ford Explorer
1995–2004 Lincoln Town Car
1994–1997 Mercury Cougar
1995–2004 Mercury Grand Marquis
1997–2004 Ford Expedition
1997–2001 Mercury Mountaineer
1996–2004 Ford Mustang
Obviously cars are going to be the choices. Im thinking the Thunderbird, Cougar, Mark VIII will be my best chance of the console sifter
Applications:
1993–2003 Ford F-Series
1994–1997 Ford Thunderbird
1995–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
1995–2004 Ford Crown Victoria
1996–2001 Ford Explorer
1995–2004 Lincoln Town Car
1994–1997 Mercury Cougar
1995–2004 Mercury Grand Marquis
1997–2004 Ford Expedition
1997–2001 Mercury Mountaineer
1996–2004 Ford Mustang
Obviously cars are going to be the choices. Im thinking the Thunderbird, Cougar, Mark VIII will be my best chance of the console sifter
#171
#172
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