98 Expo 5.0 in a 02 Ranger? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 06-11-2014
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Icon5 98 Expo 5.0 in a 02 Ranger?

So right now I have an opportunity to buy a 98 Explorer with a 5.0 and only 112k miles for a great price. I've checked it out, and all that it needs right now is a fuel pump. I've been wanting to do a 5.0 swap in my truck for years, but never had the time or money to invest in doing it. I'm planning to swap out the engine, trans, rear end, and some of the interior. The motor, trans, and rear end will all be taken apart and rebuilt with upgraded parts as well.

Some places I've read have said for a 2002 Ranger, the only years you should get an Explorer from are 99-01, but I've also read that a 98 can be used as long as you use the returnless fuel rails from a 99-01 engine.

Is this true? Are there any other issues that I will need to address with using a 98 instead of a 99-01? I want to make sure that using a 98 is feasible before I buy it. Thanks!

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Last edited by bravetitan24; 06-11-2014 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Edit for pics
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Old 06-11-2014
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Yes, with 'returness' EFI injectors and rail you should be fine.
'98 and '99 injectors show a different part number

You do have to deal with the PATS system, I think the '02 Ranger had PATS in the computer, and '98 explorer had separate PATS module, so you will need to swap both to the Ranger along with the key cylinder and use the Explorer PATS keys.

Once running you can get a locksmith or Ford to reflash the explorer PATS system to add the Ranger keys, then swap key cylinder back.

If you have 2 working keys for the explorer you may be able to add the Ranger keys yourself but.....................it only gives you 15 seconds to add the 3rd key.
But if you can work it without the cylinder in place it might work.
Google: 1998 explorer add a PATS key

Consider an electric fan on the Rad, better cooling and saves room.

Last edited by RonD; 06-11-2014 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 06-11-2014
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I only have 1 key for the Explorer and it's keyless entry fob, and the same for my Ranger. I guess another route I could go would be to just have another key made like the Explorer key, and coded to work with the Explorer PATS when it all gets swapped over to my Ranger? I have a much better understanding of the mechanical side of this swap than the electrical. Luckily I have some people to help me out and the good folks of the forums like yourself :)

I definitely want to add an electric fan. I've heard that some people started reading higher trans temps when adding it, though. What's the reason behind this, or could it even be related at all?
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Old 06-11-2014
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If you get an electric fan with enough CFM flow you should be fine. Look at the lincoln mark8 fans and the taurus fans they are the highest rated i have the taurus style and TYC makes a factory replacement for it i got mine new for $60 and it moves a ton of air it almost never runs on high speed with my 3.0 even in georgia heat so it should be fine for your 5.0 if you have a good radiator with it.
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Old 06-12-2014
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Originally Posted by pearlkid9988 View Post
If you get an electric fan with enough CFM flow you should be fine. Look at the lincoln mark8 fans and the taurus fans they are the highest rated i have the taurus style and TYC makes a factory replacement for it i got mine new for $60 and it moves a ton of air it almost never runs on high speed with my 3.0 even in georgia heat so it should be fine for your 5.0 if you have a good radiator with it.
I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks!

If all goes according to plan, I'll be able to get it in about 10 days and start working soon after. A guy I work with builds Ford mud racing trucks and is making sure I don't skimp out on this thing. It's definitely going to push out some horsepower!
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Yes, you could get slightly higher trans fluid temp with E-fan because unlike the belt driven fan the e-fan is not on all the time so trans cooler in rad can get warmer, not hot, just warmer.
A secondary inline trans cooler is always a good idea anyway.


You may want to read/keep this Ford document, the 1998 explorer has a type B PATS
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/01-06-02.pdf
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Old 06-12-2014
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Thanks, Ron. Swapping the PATS modules doesn't sound too hard

Just thinking aloud, would it be possible to leave out the PATS system all together and program the computer to not look for it? Reason I ask is I'm 99% sure I'm going to get a custom tune anyway, and I wouldn't mind having an upgraded alarm system with remote start. I've heard that in order to get remote start, the PATS has to be bypassed, but I don't know that for sure.
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Yes, you can get Remote Starter kits with PATS bypass, but engine dies if door is opened or it is put into gear, I believe, so not a work around.

'96-'97 explorer 5.0l didn't have PATS, the '97 to '00 used 5R55E trans, so a '97 5.0l PCM might work for you, although the fuel system would probably need to be addressed, might be better to add the return line setup from '98 explorer, then no need to change rails/injectors.

Your '98 PCM with PATS module and Key might be worth something to someone also doing similar swap but want PATS

Good info here on this conversion: Ford Ranger/Bronco II 2.9 liter Engines

Last edited by RonD; 06-12-2014 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 06-12-2014
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I've read over that write up probably a dozen times in the last week lol, but I hadn't considered using a 97 PCM in order to get rid of PATS. I just assumed that I could use the 98 PCM and could bypass PATS as part of the custom tune.

Borrowing the fuel system from the donor 98 is also sounding like a good idea as well. I'm borrowing just about everything else off of it, so I might as well use that too.

I thought the Explorer has a 4R70W transmission as opposed to the 5R55E? I know my Ranger has a 5R55E, but that's not staying. I'm going to swap the motor, trans, and my dinky 7.5 axle for the 8.8.
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You are right, Trans code on door label shows U so 4R70W, '97 V8 would have that as well and no PATS
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Old 06-13-2014
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I've been reading on the Explorer forums about using a PATS bypass device, and it seems like not all bypasses for remote start systems are made equal. I should still be able to retain functionality of locking/unlocking the doors while the engine is running as long as I get the right kit.

Having remote start isn't completely necessary to me, just a luxury I'd look into if it can be done reasonably. I have it on my Fusion and hardly use it, so I should probably just take the easier/cheaper route and leave the idea alone. Lord knows I'm going to be spending enough time and money on this project as it is. I'd rather dump that money in performance mods anyway
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Old 06-13-2014
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Next question: what are everyone's thoughts on the L&L Products 302 conversion kits for the Ranger? If you have any experience with this kit, please share your results!

L and L Products
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Old 06-17-2014
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Bump for possible input on the L&L kit!
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Old 06-17-2014
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Originally Posted by bravetitan24 View Post
Bump for possible input on the L&L kit!
If your going to keep the exploder while you do the swap, why buy the kit?

The Explorer and Ranger front ends are very similar. I can see buying new motor mounts, but the rest should fit without an issue
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Old 06-17-2014
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If your going to keep the exploder while you do the swap, why buy the kit?

The Explorer and Ranger front ends are very similar. I can see buying new motor mounts, but the rest should fit without an issue
The motor mounts will most likely be a necessity as the old ones are obviously 16 years old and have probably been worn down a good bit. I plan on doing some upgrades to the engine, so new and stronger mounts will be good for it.

The remote oil filter kit will be of use since the filter's location will need to be modified anyway. It will need at least a 90* adapter.

I'm not doing the swap without high performance headers, and these are about half the price of TMs if purchased seperately. These were my main concern over everything else in the package as I wanted to know if anyone had issues with them getting in the way of anything in the engine bay.

The pan isn't much of a necessity, just more or less an extra piece to the kit. It'd be used, though.
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Old 06-22-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bravetitan24 View Post
Next question: what are everyone's thoughts on the L&L Products 302 conversion kits for the Ranger? If you have any experience with this kit, please share your results!

L and L Products
I don't think the L&L will work for your needs, your 02 has a completely different front suspension, steering and engine mount system than that kit is designed to work with.

To get the '98 5.0 into your 02:

PATS -- either add the '98's PATS module to your 02 and program in new keys, delete PATS with a tune or drop down to the '97 PCM -- might need to use the '97's engine and trans wiring harnesses, there might be pinout differences that go deeper than just PATS.

Engine mounts -- Need custom mounting plates for the engine -- there are plans/drawings for the plates commonly available in the 'net.
-- You'll need to remove the spacer under the left engine mount and it'd probably be a good idea to install new 3.0/4.0 mounts while you're there.

Wiring -- Along with PATS, there are a number of wiring differences, perhaps the largest is with the A/C system and the way the PCM controls the A/C clutch relay. Having copies of both the Explorer and Ranger EVTM's is all but essential. The Ranger's body to engine plug won't stretch to meet the Explorer's plug, either extend the Explorer's harness or build an extension with a matched pair of connectors from a wreck, makes a good place to resolve most of the wiring differences.

Power steering -- probably will need a custom high pressure hose between the pump and rack/pinion unit. Any hydraulic shop can make one if you supply the ends and dimensions.

Driveshaft -- probably will need a custom shaft, you might get lucky and find one that fits, if you've got a std cab, the Explorer one might work.

Fuel system -- easiest is to remove the in-tank FPR, tie the Explorer's fuel return to the Rangers return line at the fuel filter and use the single in/single out Explorer fuel filter. You'll only need about 2' of the Explorer return line and a compression coupling. Cut the return nipple off the Ranger filter, couple that to the Explorer return line and it becomes plug and play.

Engine oil pan -- the cast aluminum Explorer pan won't work in the Ranger, get a rear sump steel pan.

Exhaust -- the Explorer manifolds and front downpipes/cats will work. Only headers that I know fit are the Torque Monster headers from Al's Headers. The Torque Monsters are expensive, Al's is slow and they don't communicate well. Still the Torque Monsters are drop dead gorgeous and exceptionally well made.



You'll need the Explorer throttle cable, cruise control cable, A/C hoses, radiator, condenser, rad hoses and oil filter extension adapter.
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Old 06-22-2014
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Quote:
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Engine mounts -- Need custom mounting plates for the engine -- there are plans/drawings for the plates commonly available in the 'net.
-- You'll need to remove the spacer under the left engine mount and it'd probably be a good idea to install new 3.0/4.0 mounts while you're there.
No need for custom plates in this case. 98+ torsion bar Rangers (including his 2WD Edge) will accept factory Explorer 5.0 plates and mounts as a direct bolt on.
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Old 06-22-2014
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No need for custom plates in this case. 98+ torsion bar Rangers (including his 2WD Edge) will accept factory Explorer 5.0 plates and mounts as a direct bolt on.
You're right! I'd missed his was a Splash with the torsion suspension -- one less thing to worry about!
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Old 06-22-2014
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Bob! Glad to see you on this thread! Every swap needs some input from a wiring guru like yourself. Electrical work is definitely my weakness. I should be buying the Explorer this week and the swap will begin after I get the engine and drivetrain torn down and built up. An official build thread should start soon.

Thanks for the tips, Win. I hadn't heard anything before about the power steering and the A/C system. I'm definitely going with some custom tunes, and am planning to get rid of PATS with it.

I hate that the TM headers are so dang expensive. They're nearly impossible to find on the secondary market. You're right about how good they look, though. I wish there was some kind of alternative performance header out there that didn't cost an arm and a leg.
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Old 06-22-2014
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Also, where can I find an EVTM? Will a Haynes manual have everything I need electrically? I'd planned to buy one for each vehicle this week.
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Old 06-23-2014
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Haynes and other aftermarket books try to cover too many years with too little info. IMO, useless for a swap like this.

EVTM's are usually easy to find on eBay. The updated name for 99 and newer Fords is "Wiring Diagrams", so also search for that or similar.
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Old 06-23-2014
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Haynes and other aftermarket books try to cover too many years with too little info. IMO, useless for a swap like this.

EVTM's are usually easy to find on eBay. The updated name for 99 and newer Fords is "Wiring Diagrams", so also search for that or similar.
Found them by searching "wiring diagrams" like you said. Thanks!
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Old 08-03-2014
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Bumping this thread as another avenue for getting this question answered:

In an attempt to find something other than the elusive TM headers to replace the terrible performance of the stock headers, I came across these "narrow clearance" headers from Ford Racing. I've tried finding anyone that has ever used them on a Ranger swap, but haven't had any luck at all. They say it clears the GT40P heads, and from the pics, it sits really close to the block.

My question is does anyone know of someone using these in an application like mine, or can someone tell me they know these will/won't fit? If they've been used on a Ranger swap, what kind of performance do they have?
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Old 08-03-2014
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Will not clear steering shaft or engine mount plates on your 2002 Edge. Not even close.
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Old 08-03-2014
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Will not clear steering shaft or engine mount plates on your 2002 Edge. Not even close.
I was afraid you might say that! Thanks, Bob! Looks like I'm going to have to break down and get some TMs. I know I'll be happy with them, I just don't have the patience to deal with the long lead times and (from what I've read) poor communication/service lol
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