audio dummy
#1
audio dummy
hey guys. Was thinking about an aftermarket stereo system. I know nothing about subs or amps or anything else. I just know about cd players. I have a regular cab so what is a good set up and any suggestions. Sorry this is vague I can answer questions to help out. Can anyone give the basics on subs amps tweeters etc.
#5
If you're not too familiar with how to remove your factory radio and install an aftermarket one, there's only one way to learn right!
Actually, it's not that hard. When you find a deck you're happy with, chances are, it will be pretty easy to install. As far as brands go, I'm a Pioneer/Alpine/Infinity fan.
Actually, it's not that hard. When you find a deck you're happy with, chances are, it will be pretty easy to install. As far as brands go, I'm a Pioneer/Alpine/Infinity fan.
#6
Just dive in head first. Crutchfield has great costumer help. A local audio store will give you tips and suggestions if you ask the right people.
Subs produce bass. The sub itself does not really make the bass. (free air subs do though but thats another story) The enclosure for the sub is very important. When you buy a sub it will have what its recommended cubic feet of air space is. The sub will do best in a box that range. There are calculators on the web to get dimensions for that cubic feet. Sealed boxes are easy to build and hard to mess up building. I like ported boxes though, for the ability to tune for certain Hz that the sub likes usually 34-30 I have seen some tuned to 28hz.
Amps sent power. Easy right. Not in a long shot. Amps are very ticky to what they want. Good power cable from the battery, the right size inline fuse between the battery and the amp and a good fuse in the amp itself will make sure it gets the power it needs. A class D amp is mainly a bass only amp. A/B can do some bass but have selections for treble and higher tuning for mid sized speakers and tweets. Channels on a amp means how mean speakers it can run. 2 channel has 2 postive and 2 negative posts for speaker wires. You can run more then 2 speakers on a two channel amp.
I have 2 SPL tweeters in my truck along with 6x9s in the doors. Yes, I cut my doors for the 9s. Tweets are not really needed if you get good door speakers. I just wanted them for a little more higher end sound. They wire just like regular speakers and come in a range of sizes.
I hope that helps. Im tired of typing now.
Subs produce bass. The sub itself does not really make the bass. (free air subs do though but thats another story) The enclosure for the sub is very important. When you buy a sub it will have what its recommended cubic feet of air space is. The sub will do best in a box that range. There are calculators on the web to get dimensions for that cubic feet. Sealed boxes are easy to build and hard to mess up building. I like ported boxes though, for the ability to tune for certain Hz that the sub likes usually 34-30 I have seen some tuned to 28hz.
Amps sent power. Easy right. Not in a long shot. Amps are very ticky to what they want. Good power cable from the battery, the right size inline fuse between the battery and the amp and a good fuse in the amp itself will make sure it gets the power it needs. A class D amp is mainly a bass only amp. A/B can do some bass but have selections for treble and higher tuning for mid sized speakers and tweets. Channels on a amp means how mean speakers it can run. 2 channel has 2 postive and 2 negative posts for speaker wires. You can run more then 2 speakers on a two channel amp.
I have 2 SPL tweeters in my truck along with 6x9s in the doors. Yes, I cut my doors for the 9s. Tweets are not really needed if you get good door speakers. I just wanted them for a little more higher end sound. They wire just like regular speakers and come in a range of sizes.
I hope that helps. Im tired of typing now.
#8
#10
#11
Well, I've been mucking about with car audio since decks were cassette with twin shaft!
So, when you are looking for an upgrade to your factory units, try to find a head unit that has the features you want, these days almost everything has cd/mp3, aux (audio plug) in and USB plug in.
Since I use amps for all my speakers, I want to use pre-amp outs instead of the speaker outs on a deck.
So I found a unit that has at least 4 ch RCA outs (Front and Rears) getting a deck with 6 ch RCAs would be sweet (Front, Rear and Sub).
Selection of an amplifier isn't too hard, but DON'T GO CRAZY with the power.
The MOST you'll need in any vehicle is 100W MAX / channel, beyond that and you won't hear much of an improvement and you'll damage your hearing.
OK, for the Subs, you'll want maybe 300-500W MAX.
When choosing speakers, you want speakers able to handle at least 20% higher power than you amp can supply, so if your amp can supply 100w Max, you want speakers that can handle at least 120w Max, that way you won't damage your speakers by over powering them.
Try to buy name brand components as there are brands at flea markets that are showy, but will not give the proper clarity to your sound. It's like driving a yugo or a porsche, each will get you around, but which is the better made car?
I'm also not saying to buy the most expensive, as you will overkill your system.
Your local audio store (try to find a car audio place - not just the auto section at wally world [Wal-Mart]) should have decks setup to listen to, but you also have to remember that they are setup in a large volume space, and your truck/car is a small volume space, so they may sound different in your vehicle, but you will hear small differences between decks and speaker setups.
So first thing is to select a good mid-range speaker (usually a 6x9 gives good all around sound) then try all the decks with the same speakers (maybe take your favorite cd in to use to listen), then once you find a deck that sounds good, start trying different brands of speakers in the size you need (6x8 for us) but those are usually special orders, so go with the 6x9s, and find a manufacturer that you like, then get the right size in that one.
I know it will take some time, but you will be much more satisfied with your setup than if you just mish-mashed a set together.
My last stereo (The one I'll be installing into my truck):
Head Unit: Sony GT-51W
Main Amp: Sony XM-4045 (4ch 45w RMS/ch)
Sub Amp: Sony XM-10020 (2ch 100w RMS/ch)
My last speakers (which I will be changing for this setup):
Front: 5 1/4" Rockford Fosgate Punch (50w RMS)
Rear: 6 1/2" Sony X-Plod (60w RMS)
Sub: 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch (150w RMS)
For this setup, I want to use 4 6x8 Rockford Fosgate Punch + the 10" Sub
So, when you are looking for an upgrade to your factory units, try to find a head unit that has the features you want, these days almost everything has cd/mp3, aux (audio plug) in and USB plug in.
Since I use amps for all my speakers, I want to use pre-amp outs instead of the speaker outs on a deck.
So I found a unit that has at least 4 ch RCA outs (Front and Rears) getting a deck with 6 ch RCAs would be sweet (Front, Rear and Sub).
Selection of an amplifier isn't too hard, but DON'T GO CRAZY with the power.
The MOST you'll need in any vehicle is 100W MAX / channel, beyond that and you won't hear much of an improvement and you'll damage your hearing.
OK, for the Subs, you'll want maybe 300-500W MAX.
When choosing speakers, you want speakers able to handle at least 20% higher power than you amp can supply, so if your amp can supply 100w Max, you want speakers that can handle at least 120w Max, that way you won't damage your speakers by over powering them.
Try to buy name brand components as there are brands at flea markets that are showy, but will not give the proper clarity to your sound. It's like driving a yugo or a porsche, each will get you around, but which is the better made car?
I'm also not saying to buy the most expensive, as you will overkill your system.
Your local audio store (try to find a car audio place - not just the auto section at wally world [Wal-Mart]) should have decks setup to listen to, but you also have to remember that they are setup in a large volume space, and your truck/car is a small volume space, so they may sound different in your vehicle, but you will hear small differences between decks and speaker setups.
So first thing is to select a good mid-range speaker (usually a 6x9 gives good all around sound) then try all the decks with the same speakers (maybe take your favorite cd in to use to listen), then once you find a deck that sounds good, start trying different brands of speakers in the size you need (6x8 for us) but those are usually special orders, so go with the 6x9s, and find a manufacturer that you like, then get the right size in that one.
I know it will take some time, but you will be much more satisfied with your setup than if you just mish-mashed a set together.
My last stereo (The one I'll be installing into my truck):
Head Unit: Sony GT-51W
Main Amp: Sony XM-4045 (4ch 45w RMS/ch)
Sub Amp: Sony XM-10020 (2ch 100w RMS/ch)
My last speakers (which I will be changing for this setup):
Front: 5 1/4" Rockford Fosgate Punch (50w RMS)
Rear: 6 1/2" Sony X-Plod (60w RMS)
Sub: 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch (150w RMS)
For this setup, I want to use 4 6x8 Rockford Fosgate Punch + the 10" Sub
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