Why cant i run a 2-ohm setup?
#1
Why cant i run a 2-ohm setup?
Ok so i have a Alpine mrd-m605 and a 12' alpine type R 2 ohm...i put everything together and it sounded ok but i was definately not impressed or satisfied. So i took it into a car audio place and they told me everything looked good but i had the wrong sub. They told me i needed a 4 ohm type R instead of my 2 ohm. They explained to me why i needed the 4 ohm sub but they didnt really make it crystal clear. Why cant i run this sub at 2 ohm's? Is this amp not capable to run this sub at 2 ohm's? Is it in how i wired my system? Basically what im asking is what do i have to do to have a 2 ohm system? thank you!
#3
someone is probably already typing a reply to your post, but here it goes.....
you need a 4ohm voice coil on your alpine type-r because its a DUAL voice coil. right now with a dual 2ohm sub, your amp only has a choice of seeing a 1ohm load or a 4ohm load. most amp manufactures use 1-2ohm rating to tell you how much that amp can put out. the higher the ohm load your amp sees, the less powerful (yet more clean). the lower the ohm load, the harder your amp will work. there arent a lot of amps out there that can run at 1ohm, especially for an extended time frame.
if you get a dual 4ohm voice coil version of that sub, your choices will be to wire your sub to show your amp either a 2ohm load or an 8ohm load. the 8ohm load is out of the question, unless its SUPER powerful, and you dont want to get all of the power out of it....go with the 2ohm load, and your amp will be more powerfull, and run how its suppose to be ran.
good luck
you need a 4ohm voice coil on your alpine type-r because its a DUAL voice coil. right now with a dual 2ohm sub, your amp only has a choice of seeing a 1ohm load or a 4ohm load. most amp manufactures use 1-2ohm rating to tell you how much that amp can put out. the higher the ohm load your amp sees, the less powerful (yet more clean). the lower the ohm load, the harder your amp will work. there arent a lot of amps out there that can run at 1ohm, especially for an extended time frame.
if you get a dual 4ohm voice coil version of that sub, your choices will be to wire your sub to show your amp either a 2ohm load or an 8ohm load. the 8ohm load is out of the question, unless its SUPER powerful, and you dont want to get all of the power out of it....go with the 2ohm load, and your amp will be more powerfull, and run how its suppose to be ran.
good luck
#6
that was kinda techno jumble, and i didnt mean to do that....this is what you need to do...wire in what is called "parallel"
get a 4ohm alpine type-r
wire amp possitive, to sub vc1 possitive
wire amp negative, to sub vc1 negative
wire vc1 possitive, to vc2 possitive
wire vc1 negative, to vc2 negative
rock out!!!
get a 4ohm alpine type-r
wire amp possitive, to sub vc1 possitive
wire amp negative, to sub vc1 negative
wire vc1 possitive, to vc2 possitive
wire vc1 negative, to vc2 negative
rock out!!!
#9
#10
#11
so ill get the 4-ohm sub but how do i wire my sub to show my amp a 2 ohm load?
That will give you a 2ohm load.
Let me know if you have any ?s
#12
#13
Originally Posted by Wrongway
If your going to get another sub, you can get another dual 2ohm sub like the one you have an wire them in series\parallel and you will have a 2ohm load at the amp. just a suggestion if your going to buy another sub anyway might as well use them both right?
good idea, but take it and have it installed by someone who is 10000% sure they know what they are doing!!!! or you can just ask us if you feel comfortable
#14
ok, so i finally got to wiring my system...it worked for a couple minutes but my sub just stopped playing....i wired it like its stated above
get a 4ohm alpine type-r
wire amp possitive, to sub vc1 possitive
wire amp negative, to sub vc1 negative
wire vc1 possitive, to vc2 possitive
wire vc1 negative, to vc2 negative
the power to the sub is there because i used a test light to see if i had power coming from the amp into the sub..it lit up everytime there shouldve bein bass but nothing out of the sub...ihope it didnt blow, would i be definately sure it blew if it did? help this si f'ing gay, it just stopped working all of a sudden
get a 4ohm alpine type-r
wire amp possitive, to sub vc1 possitive
wire amp negative, to sub vc1 negative
wire vc1 possitive, to vc2 possitive
wire vc1 negative, to vc2 negative
the power to the sub is there because i used a test light to see if i had power coming from the amp into the sub..it lit up everytime there shouldve bein bass but nothing out of the sub...ihope it didnt blow, would i be definately sure it blew if it did? help this si f'ing gay, it just stopped working all of a sudden
#15
Are you sure your new sub is a DVC 4 ohm? Because if it's 2 ohm, then your amp sees 1 ohm load, which it shouldn't handle (that explains the overheating and shut off)
2 ohm DVC
4 ohm DVC
I personally don't link the terminals on DVC subs, just run two pairs of wiring from amp to sub. Definitely recommended on higher wattage applications.
Also let it cool and try again. Always start with the gain at the lowest setting and work your way up. It if works, then it has to be a wiring/overheating problem, otherwise something might be faulty or fried.
2 ohm DVC
4 ohm DVC
I personally don't link the terminals on DVC subs, just run two pairs of wiring from amp to sub. Definitely recommended on higher wattage applications.
Also let it cool and try again. Always start with the gain at the lowest setting and work your way up. It if works, then it has to be a wiring/overheating problem, otherwise something might be faulty or fried.
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