TCAB+2 12" Type R's+Ranger=Destruction???
#1
TCAB+2 12" Type R's+Ranger=Destruction???
:up2somet: I got the TCAB 12" Type R Box from Mark Potts on Friday...it was quite massive....for those that don't know him...well, you should!!! He builds awesome boxes
Let me just say this...it is Crazy Loud for a DD...I can't bear to listen to it a full tilt for more than 30 seconds/min...I feel like i'm short of breath
The port is massive
Out with the old, in with the new....
In and ready to go
Some pics of the port compared to my i870
I know mark wanted a pic for the TCAB site...your welcome to take this one
got some advertising for ya on the back panel
Ok now more on to the install/fit...It does fit with the back panel still on...yes. But I did loose about 3" of legroom
So I ripped out the back panel (not literally, but pretty close) and I gained back all my legroom. The part that the jack connects to was in the way, by about 5"...soo i gained all that room back. I'm 6"2...and my seat is ALL the way back. The back of the headrest is at the rear window line...actually a little furthur back. so I didn't lose any legroom at all...exactly what i wanted
It rattles like a TIN CAN...I need to fatmat/dynomat/spray EVERYWHERE and anywhere...thats definetly next on the list. If anyone has a hookup or extra LMK, I need everything, doors, floor, (i don't want the headliner, i have no rattle there) EVERYTHING though (except headliner it's a PITA)
The at 32hz i get about 2" of rear panel flex...i measured this outside with a ruler...i put the ruler on the panel with no music and it was i belive 3" gap between the glass/bedliner. i then played the tone and the ruler went to about 1" reading steady...so thats some pretty good flex
Yes, it is very painful to sit in...I do not think it's a 50...but :furious: my body hurts while in the vehicle. It definetly will give you a new hairdo...it's like a low note bass machine...anything below 40hz HURTS at even 75 percent tilt.
If you want more info or want one with the exact DIMs...PM me...I can get them for you. They are a bit pricey....but I don't know any other box that can pull these numbers with these subs...they just flat out PERFORM!!!
I have lots more pics here...if you want em pm me and i'll go on aim..i'm jrpro130
LMK what you think
Let me just say this...it is Crazy Loud for a DD...I can't bear to listen to it a full tilt for more than 30 seconds/min...I feel like i'm short of breath
The port is massive
Out with the old, in with the new....
In and ready to go
Some pics of the port compared to my i870
I know mark wanted a pic for the TCAB site...your welcome to take this one
got some advertising for ya on the back panel
Ok now more on to the install/fit...It does fit with the back panel still on...yes. But I did loose about 3" of legroom
So I ripped out the back panel (not literally, but pretty close) and I gained back all my legroom. The part that the jack connects to was in the way, by about 5"...soo i gained all that room back. I'm 6"2...and my seat is ALL the way back. The back of the headrest is at the rear window line...actually a little furthur back. so I didn't lose any legroom at all...exactly what i wanted
It rattles like a TIN CAN...I need to fatmat/dynomat/spray EVERYWHERE and anywhere...thats definetly next on the list. If anyone has a hookup or extra LMK, I need everything, doors, floor, (i don't want the headliner, i have no rattle there) EVERYTHING though (except headliner it's a PITA)
The at 32hz i get about 2" of rear panel flex...i measured this outside with a ruler...i put the ruler on the panel with no music and it was i belive 3" gap between the glass/bedliner. i then played the tone and the ruler went to about 1" reading steady...so thats some pretty good flex
Yes, it is very painful to sit in...I do not think it's a 50...but :furious: my body hurts while in the vehicle. It definetly will give you a new hairdo...it's like a low note bass machine...anything below 40hz HURTS at even 75 percent tilt.
If you want more info or want one with the exact DIMs...PM me...I can get them for you. They are a bit pricey....but I don't know any other box that can pull these numbers with these subs...they just flat out PERFORM!!!
I have lots more pics here...if you want em pm me and i'll go on aim..i'm jrpro130
LMK what you think
#4
Originally Posted by 04lvl2
That box is massive man. Looks pretty nice.
I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out...I've been waiting a while for it
#5
yea i just built a box for my 2 12" L7 and its massive, finally got to play it for the firt time yesterday. Lets jsut say i cant sit in the vehicle at 30% turned up..i dont even wanna see the flex...but the type R are pretty nice too hit hard! now you just ned a couple more amps to power them !
#6
Originally Posted by Blurple
yea i just built a box for my 2 12" L7 and its massive, finally got to play it for the firt time yesterday. Lets jsut say i cant sit in the vehicle at 30% turned up..i dont even wanna see the flex...but the type R are pretty nice too hit hard! now you just ned a couple more amps to power them !
the l7's aren't known to be low note monsters...they are a lot better at 45hz and up...i got type r's for their infamous 30hz burps...the ones that flex....ALOT
you shouldn't start flexing until about 35hz...nothing should really flex...shake yes...like crazy everything shakes...but no flex yet... :)
It's all good though bro...yours is definetly a higher SPL than mine...mines a DD setup for low notes...it's not meant to be loud...just rediculous DD loud!!!
#7
its posted on here i jsut got it built.....My sub box ...4ft long, 22" deep and 15" wide..its pretty huge lol and its ported off the sides of the box more of a sleek look...i drew up the demsions and cut it all outta some 3/4 MDF. they hit really hard so far only had them running for 2 days..both tests were enough to make me wanna get outta the truck other then that only a severe headache for the gf and the neighbours looking at me like im crazy. I have a few bass test CD's i ran through them jsut to warm them up cause its -25 here and after that the flex (from the subs themselves) was pretty amazing..my old 10"s would have never moved that much even if i jumped on them..but it helps that theres 2 1000watt amps pushin one each..i havent maxed out there potential yet and am scared to do to the fact of my ears wanting to bleed lol..
#8
Originally Posted by Blurple
its posted on here i jsut got it built.....My sub box ...4ft long, 22" deep and 15" wide..its pretty huge lol and its ported off the sides of the box more of a sleek look...i drew up the demsions and cut it all outta some 3/4 MDF. they hit really hard so far only had them running for 2 days..both tests were enough to make me wanna get outta the truck other then that only a severe headache for the gf and the neighbours looking at me like im crazy. I have a few bass test CD's i ran through them jsut to warm them up cause its -25 here and after that the flex (from the subs themselves) was pretty amazing..my old 10"s would have never moved that much even if i jumped on them..but it helps that theres 2 1000watt amps pushin one each..i havent maxed out there potential yet and am scared to do to the fact of my ears wanting to bleed lol..
Get on the TL and get some numbers up! You doing a vid soon??? I'll have you take a look at mine, i should be able to do it monday or so...i'll let you know for sure.
When i put in bass tests...well lets just say it hurts...pretty bad
I can't wait to get a new alt and 2500D...
i'm installing my b-quiet and dynamat extreme when it comes...should give me a litttle tiny gain!!!
#9
Yea the new alternator is right away hopefully this weekend if i can find a big one..im running a Optima battery already so thats an added boost. Tuned too im not the best at that yet the Jvc deck says the amp i at 85hz or something but the amps are both turned down really low cause its just way to loud if there not. My box has a total of 8.7 cubic feet, so about 4.3 per side..and kicker recommended 3.75 and up for deep bass well they were right! the ports on each side have a baffle going down to the bottom and a couple 3" holes cut in it at the bottom, i found it sounded nicer in a box with ports like that over a box with a huge port like yours..all comes down to personal preferance i guess eh...i love it yours look amazing and i cant wait to get a reading on it.
#11
Originally Posted by Blurple
Yea the new alternator is right away hopefully this weekend if i can find a big one..im running a Optima battery already so thats an added boost. Tuned too im not the best at that yet the Jvc deck says the amp i at 85hz or something but the amps are both turned down really low cause its just way to loud if there not. My box has a total of 8.7 cubic feet, so about 4.3 per side..and kicker recommended 3.75 and up for deep bass well they were right! the ports on each side have a baffle going down to the bottom and a couple 3" holes cut in it at the bottom, i found it sounded nicer in a box with ports like that over a box with a huge port like yours..all comes down to personal preferance i guess eh...i love it yours look amazing and i cant wait to get a reading on it.
Dude, you are running all that wattage on a stock amp???????????
HOlY CRAP...I'm only running about 989 watts (used a dmm and conversion) and my voltage drops to the point my truck dies!
I am working on getting a 200 a alt...i wanna give junses some business. Although i really want a 300amp alt...i dunno what i'm going to do.
I'm planning on getting another amp for my speakers and getting a set of coaxials. so in total i will have 12 speakers. should be alright
and an orion 2500d
#12
lol yea, well i have 3 amps all together off a stock alternator, but the subs are only used at full potential when i wanna show off its noise. then i go click click click lol but for my enjoyment its not turned up hellaloud so its not really takin much juice out and the 4 channel for the speakers is really the only thing suckin power..when the sub are goin full the voltage meter bounces from L to half way lol
EDIT: GET A 300!!!!!!
EDIT: GET A 300!!!!!!
#13
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
i run everything in my sig which is 900rms =/- a few watts have upgraded grounds and power to factory alternator and an underdog pulley(which lowers battery a bit) with AC on and headlights and at full crank i can still pull 13.8-14volts constantly. point is upgrade your grounds and power to alternator. hell i used to have a sentra with 3 optimas and 4-DD12's and 4-Directed 1100D's and had 0guage wiring on a factory alternator and it lasted me 2 years full of comps and street before my alternator crapped out.
#14
Originally Posted by quest51210
i run everything in my sig which is 900rms =/- a few watts have upgraded grounds and power to factory alternator and an underdog pulley(which lowers battery a bit) with AC on and headlights and at full crank i can still pull 13.8-14volts constantly. point is upgrade your grounds and power to alternator. hell i used to have a sentra with 3 optimas and 4-DD12's and 4-Directed 1100D's and had 0guage wiring on a factory alternator and it lasted me 2 years full of comps and street before my alternator crapped out.
I'm not a newb to car audio. I've been around it for quite a while. Installed quite a few "systems".
I did the big 3 with 2/0 wire. I've upgraded almost every single ground point...about 8 of them on the truck. I have 4 guauge (yes 4 gauge, not 4/0 running to my amp.) stock battery, and NO component speaker amp, one hifonics 1605D...car is running, with the A/C off...no headlights, at full tilt on a 30hz sine wave...my charge drops to 12v (basically just running off the battery)
with my car on, headlights on...my subs distort past a certain point (i'm guessing 60 percent) because of low voltage.
Maybe my truck alt is weak (it's a 2002) or maybe my math was wrong and I pull more than 900 watts...but even with an underdrive pulley your still pulling 13.8...thats crazy!!!!
I have an OVERDRIVE pully (my alt spins faster at idle) and I still can't even pull 13.8 with music. not even on a sine wave. Let alone w/ any AC or lights.
I'm at about 14.18-14.21 with no lights/ac at idle. With ac it drops to like 13.99, with lights about 13.89-13.91. On a good song (low notes, 30-40hz..i'm at about 13 volts dead even...sometimes less) thats at an idle with no lights/ac
I don't know how in the lords name you can still get even 13.8 volts.
Its very possible, and I don't doubt you...but HOW??? Tell me the secret I won't tell!!!
I really think your not getting 900w...I get about 989 just out of my amp (measured with a DMM and used conversion of volts forumla) and I am KILLING my alt...
LMK and please don't take offence. I'm not that type of guy. I'm not meaning to be disrespectful or anything, just proving my experience against yours. Don't let this be an e-thug bash!!!
#17
Originally Posted by quest51210
Wayne from underdog performance can vouch for me and that was dropping to 13.4 before i upgraded to 0 guage grounds and 0guage power to my alternator
I did a writeup on the big 3...it shows how i did it. Check it out...I used 2/0...but it was a to get from my alt to my batt. I gained a lot of help by this.
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