sealed or ported...that is the question! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 11-01-2006
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sealed or ported...that is the question!

Hey guys, well as many know i sold my red 99 and bought my 01. I used to have a pretty loud setup in my 99 but it required the removal of pretty much everything in the back seat (jack, cover, seats). Even though you can probably only fit a midget back there, i would like to be able to keep atleast one jumpseat in the rear of my truck for my new system.

i have a 12" L7 with a 750.1 kicker amp. should i have a sealed or ported box? my buddy has the same setup in his hatchback tiburon and it hits almost 139 decibals. granted he has way more air space in his car. what sounds best in the rangers? sealed or ported?
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Old 11-01-2006
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In a truck you want to go ported...its louder and hit more tones...i have had both sealed and ported boxs in my truck and by far cause of the cab space ported is the way to go...
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Old 11-01-2006
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proof reading > me

well i dont know about in a ranger, but if you are looking to be able to keep some space. go sealed. kickers from my experience likes LOTS of airspace when you got ported. the box i am curently building is being built behind the passenger side seat, and wont go past where the jack cover is. it is going to be roughly 2.5 cubes, and still be under the window line. also it will leave me room to install my amprack as well (hopefully). personally i like sealed over ported for SQ reasons. my mag vs my sx (mag was sealed sx was ported) were both 15" subs, both getting roughlg 1000 watts i really enjoyed my mag over the sx.

your sub, going by kickers 06 specs, wants a min .88 cuft sealed and a max 2.0 cuft sealed. and going ported 1.75 cuft min, and 3.25 max, and that dosent include port displacement, not sure if that is taking into consideration of driver displacement.
so say you wanna build a 2.5 vented box, and your port is something like 12.5x3x10 (just thowing out random numbers) that is about .30 cuft of your box taken up from port volume alone. add in the volume of mounting the basket of the sub alone. and that can up it like .10 ish (again just a guess) and that will make the box you are building to need 2.9 cuft to get your goal of 2.5 cuft of airspace for your sub. and dont forget bracing in the box as well...


but if you are more intrested in how many deebees you can hit, go ported, tune high, and **** away.

truthfully, this was all just an guess at the numbers on my part.

sorry for the long post and hope it helps
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Old 11-01-2006
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hey guys, thanks for all the info. bumpn, i have a sealed box now for it and it sounds okay but i almost feel as if the sub is having trouble being in such a small box. i bought the box and it was built to kicker specs. ill have to see if i can think of some new ideas. thanks guys
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Old 11-01-2006
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thats what is happening.....
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Old 11-01-2006
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let me know if i can be of help.
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Old 11-02-2006
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what you might want to do is go out and get some poly fill......It tricks the sounds waves of the speaker inside the box to make it semm like the box is bigger then it really is....only thing i can think of you doing to fix that.....
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Old 11-02-2006
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x2, pillow stuffing will work as well, and it is cheaper than poly fill
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Old 11-06-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrailRateThisFx4
In a truck you want to go ported...its louder and hit more tones...i have had both sealed and ported boxs in my truck and by far cause of the cab space ported is the way to go...
The ported will be louder, but NOT hit MORE tones. It will be tuned to hit a certain frequency and only hit near that frequency. A sealed box should be tuned so that the subwoofer can hit every possible low frequency according to the sub specs.
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