I basically have decided that if I'm gonna put in any sound insulation this year, it's gonna have to be fairly cheap. So taking Dave (and Julie's) recommendation, I think I'll be using Peel and Seal (the roofing stuff)
A few questions:

I would really like to do the whole cab and be done with it, so where is the best place to seal?

For doors, right behind the door panel, or on the backside of the metal door skin? Or is it just such a pain in the rear to get it on to the metal?

I know the rear will need some behind the plastic trim and everything, my setup rattled the hell out of my regular cab. Probably gonna do the head liner too. Any issues with the stuff detaching itself in the summer heat and becoming a problem later?

Anybody install the stuff under the dash? I want to do atleast the foot box portion of the firewall, but didn't know how far to go until the cost/amount of work isn't justified for the results...

 

nevr used that peel n' seal. Two buk packs of dynomat and a n extreme door kit will ge tthe job done pretty well.

Best thing to do is the knock test. Remove seats floor and trim panles and d o the knock test.


Trim panles would require more "spot check" Lumadar recoomend foam tape, I do too. Stuff polyfill down in the rear doors.

You will have a lil les road noise if you do the very inner portion of the door (door skin) but it is kinda wast right there.

I have tailgate rattles, heat shield rattles, wiper cowl rattles and other stuff under the hood any suggestions? LOL

 

Start with the doors. Do the inside, the actual outer skin of the door. Then do the part right behind the door panel. Then do the back wall. Drive it around and see how much quieter it is. If you want to do more then do the floor. I would probably do two coats on the door before I did the roof and floor. Might want to do two coats on the outer skin since you won't be able to get to it after. Do the roof last, if at all, not much noise comes from there.

Clean every surface with alcohol first. Don't do it on a cold day either. 80 degrees or more is good, it will stick much better.

 

I'm not sure about your door skin, but mine has an anti-rust coating on it. If you attach something to it, it won't stick. If you remove the coating, the rust warrenty is void. Your call, but not worth the effort in my opinion. Plus, it's hard for paintless dent removal places to remove door dings. Add to that, it's darn hard to reach through the holes and mechanism of the window crank. You'll be covered in grease, and get cut by the sharp sheet metal.

I chose to cover the metal right under the panel, and used baffles to keep the speaker from echoing inside the doors. Works great, but I've never compared it to one that had the outer skin covered.

 

thats the point man lol

 

No way man! :D The inside of those doors are designed to remove skin. Somebody at Ford has an evil sense of humor. I thought the inside of the dash was sharp and rusty; then I took apart the doors

 

I haven't done a ranger lately but I never had any big problems getting cut up and greasy with the mustangs or older ranger.

They don't come rust proofed, but if it is then you can't do it.

The outer skin is probably the most important part to do. The goal is to stop metal panels from resonating and the door skin is a big metal panel. Things that are structural and strong won't resonate, which is why the floor isn't that important.

 

I have 4 12's, upgraded electrical system, and 1500 watts rms. The door skin is the last thing to rattle on the truck cuz the metal is much thicker. My tailgate and cowl rattle pretty bad.

Road noise throught the doors has only ever been wind sound and no deadener fixes that.

My .02

 

True, very true. Most of that noise comes from the "sails" that Ford calls sideview mirrors. When I drove around missing the right side mirror, it was much quieter from that side. Those things generate a ton of racket.

 

How quaint, I had two 18"s.

What I am talking about is keeping road noise out, not keeping stereo noise in.

 

Hmmm, can't you put some insulation on the area where the mirror and the A-pillar meet? You know, on the backside that faces into the cabin. I'm getting some pretty decent wind noise, and I thought it was the weatherstripping because the dealership used key boxes on the windows.

 

I have a crappy window seal on the drivers side because the window doesn't seat properly because it moves back and forth on its track. One of the 9 things I am bringing my truck in for next week.

 

The noise is mostly air smacking the flat mirror housing, then deflecting into the door glass. About the only way to cure that is remove the mirror, or get a streamlined one. I noticed a big differance when driving without the right mirror. You would need thicker glass to kill the noise.
And then you would notice how much wind noise is generated by the windshield :?
Rangers are noisey, you want quiet get a Bimmer.

 

Actually my 2003 regular cab was MUCH quieter. It was actually quieter on the highway than my fiancee's 2003 Honda Accord coupe. Only other difference that could make a difference is now I do have power mirrors. Also, I heard a slight whistle today when the wind was gusting, so I know I got a tiny tiny airleak somewhere.

 

Dynomat not only would keep the stereo noise in, but it keeps the rattles down.

I guess I don't hear much if any raod noise from my doors. Get too much from the firwall area to notice the doors even with the mirror tipped in as a control.

What kind of 18's? BTW

I built a street bass/competetion suburban with 4 Memphis LVS 18"ers and a 1100 watts rms to each one....yadda yadda yadda.

It was impossible to stop the rattles in that truck, especially with two ohio generator 300 amp alts and 6 Nappa orbital select bats.

 

So fatmat seems to be a good altenative (price wise).

Anybody use this stuff before?

Also, where can I find peel n seel? I checked 2 home depot's so far, and no luck. Maybe Lowes?

 

i did my whole interior in dynamat extreme...

 

The were Kicker Competitions.