Just wanted to ask how hard is it to replace the fuel injectors on a 2001 2.3L? Pretty sure 3 of mine are slowly leaking.

I've already ordered 4 new Motorcraft ones so should have those in a week. I take it I have to remove the intake manifold but is there any special tool needed to remove them? From the pictures it just looks like they are pressed fit on both sides via the rail and the engine? Just wanted to ask in case I am missing something.


Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Never done the 2.3l DOHC Duratec engine injectors

But yes, fuel injectors will have an o-ring at each end, important to replace those, and injectors are sandwiched between intake and fuel rail, tightening down fuel rail is what seals them and holds them in place.

Leaking injectors usually just need the o-rings replaced, but they can crack and leak

Usually lower intake can be left in place but upper intake often needs to be removed to get access to fuel rail.
But never done this one so can't say

On some you do need to remove the fuel line from the rail, so need the tool to release it, they are not expensive just a pain to get it to release sometimes

 

Sounds good! Thank you. I figure rather than send them out and get cleaned/overhauled it's just easier/faster/cheaper to replace them all. Not sure how long they are supposed to last but the fuel pump on my truck just died so while I am in the mood of replacing lots of stuff this chimed in my ear. Hopefully have them by the end of the week.

Now that my truck starts I can pull it in the garage and paint the frame/bed, and also work on changing the injectors. I'm surprised my HOA hasn't said anything yet about the half truck in the driveway and my bed on the side of the house...lol

-Nigel

 

Wanted to update this incase anyone wondered.

Replaced all 4 injectors on the 2.3L.

It was not hard. I was removing my intake manifold so while I'm there I wanted to do this. Unclip each harness to the injectors. Then use the special round tool to unclip the fuel line, Careful since fuel will come out. Remove two bolts holding the rail to the block.

Then slowly rock/pry out the fuel rail. Since mine were probably at LEAST 17 years old it was very difficult to remove the injectors from the engine block. After about 10 minutes careful not to break anything they all came out.

The rail then has a small c-clip that is attached to the slit in the injector. Take a small flat head screw driver and gently pry the clip out and then remove the old injector and put the new injector in.

I did not use any type of lube or anything putting the new injectors in. Just slid them in. I will update once I put the new rail/injector in the block... I'm waiting on an EGR pipe since I broke mine removing it. Also if you are already this far in, change the PCV valve since it's literally 5 inches below..

You will spend more time removing components to get the rail/injectors than the time to replace them.

-Nigel

 

I saw your post about changing the injectors for your 2.3L truck. I am about to do the same on mine. Wanted to ask you if you have to replace all the gaskets for the intake manifold. Did you have starting issue, taking few cranks to start up? Did you fix the problem after replacing the injectors? Thanks in advance.

 

I replaced my intake manifold a couple years back to do the valves making a clacking noise because they were loose. So the gaskets on the intake manifold were not bad. I did purchase a set of 4 on ebay for 9 bucks OEM just to have. Since it's off I will be putting those on.

I should have everything in terms of the front of the engine put together tonight/tomorrow. All of my injector connectors broke when removing so they wouldn't click on the injector. I bought 4 new connectors/wires and will be soldering those on shortly.

I wouldn't say I had a hard time starting the truck. I think I just had a leaky injector to be honest but at 17 years old I figured might as well replace them all. I know the orings on the originals were really hard.

I'll update here shortly once I button it all up.

-Nigel

 

Did you do a KOEO to test fuel pressure at the rail. Mine is 35 PSI when priming the fuel system, but dropped immediately after priming. Fuel pressure regulator is new, so I know somewhere is leaking ... What is your KOEO test? Will it hold the pressure?

Please take some pictures when you are removing the intake manifold (upper). That will help me and others to have better idea how it looks like. Thanks.

 

Sorry everything is all put back together. Fuel pressure was fine. I just had my fuel pump die about a couple weeks ago and was getting zero at the gauge when I checked at the rear shrader valve. There's already a thread somewhere on here where someone did step by steps on removing the upper intake manifold pictures and everything are very clear.

Now my truck starts just fine since I replace the entire fuel pump/sending assembly.

The upper intake manifold is a little pita to remove put back on. Mainly because you have to take so much stuff off and some of the bolts are a pain. You will spend more time moving and angling stuff to be able to pull it out from an angle.

I'll see if I can find that intake manifold thread but it's somewhere here:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/dohc-2...lation-144280/

-Nigel

 

Just to be clear, you had problems with your fuel pump and injectors both?

 

My fuel pump was definitely dead. Stopped working one day after pulling it out of the garage and then it got super cold the next night. Went to start it and it wouldn't prime/turn on. I have a feeling it was on the way out because a month prior it took significantly more times to crank before starting, and one point I was at working trying to leave and it didn't start at all... waited 5 minutes then it started.

When I would let the truck sit for a short time after I started it, it seemed to hesitate when starting and would idle weird up until the point that I tapped the gas pedal then it was fine and it acted like nothing happened... I figured this was perhaps a leaky injector or something along the lines.

I'm not 100% sure if I had any injector problems but, being 17 years old I figured why not change all 4 of them since I am already doing a bunch of stuff to the truck. I can tell you that the orings on the injectors I pulled were all worn/dry. The tips of the injectors were brown/burnt and I saw little white powder on two of the injector faces. Not sure what this means or if it means anything..lol New injectors were put in yesterday, and I started the truck. Starts right up now. Where as before it might take an extra crank or two.

-Nigel

 

Thanks for your clarification. My 1994 B2300 (ranger 2.3L) has 350K miles, I wonder how those original injectors will look like when I am pulling them out. I know I have to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the injectors. Where did you get your injectors? 1 hole or 4 holes at the tip? Brand? New or Reman? I am about to change mine out and I saw some good price on eBay... not sure they are good quality or not.

 

I went OEM Motorcraft. Things like that I tend to always stick with OEM only because it's a PITA and I do not want to have to do the job again by ripping stuff off again. I bought one Motorcraft injector off eBay because the person selling it had one brand new. Looks like they acquired it in a lot because all the rest of their stuff was like dvds, and other electronic items. I offered $20 and the accepted and it was shipped free.

The other 3 I purchased from RockAuto. I tend to buy a lot of stuff from them since they are quick on shipping and their prices are nice especially since you can use the 5% off all the time. I think those were more expensive at around $61 a pop.

Being that old your O-rings will definitely need replaced if you didn't want to change the injectors. I'm sure when you pull them out they will be hard/brittle and or actually break as you are pulling them out. I will note that I had to REALLY put some force and get the injectors out. They felt like they were glued in the block...lol When I put the new injectors in I put them in dry. I then read that most people do not do that and use either vaoline or some type of oil. I just used some synthetic motor oil I had and lightly rubbed some on my fingers then on the orings that go into the block, NOT the orings that attach to the fuel rail. They went in easier because of the oil this time around.

Mine are 4 holes at the tip. I will note that I also replaced all 4 of the connectors/wires. Two of the four connectors plastic locking clip broke. Mainly due to heat/age. Then when I was clipping the other two back on those snapped... I ended up purchasing motorcraft connectors at $17 a pop... so that's another $70. You can get connectors for $5.. but again I wasn't sure how long those would last. I figure the above two things should never have to be done again for the life of the truck.

To me purchasing new injectors was easier. I have seen many vids on YouTube of companies fixing older injectors and making them new again but I figured spend $80-100 for that or spend a little more and just get new. Funny thing to note is that the Motorcraft fuel injectors are made in China... :-/

-Nigel

 

What about fuel pump? Brand?

 

OEM motorcraft. Did the entire fuel sending assembly. When I tested mine it was dead. More likely than not it was just the fuel pump itself but in terms of taking stuff off, changing the filter sock and all that other stuff. You spend more time trying NOT to break things than just replacing the entire assembly. There are cheaper fuel assembly units but I have read too many stories of them failing a year or so later. I figure this. If the stock one lasted 17 years then buying another OEM one should be set. Plus I can honestly say I don't particularly care to remove the bed and all the other components again. I'm in the process now put putting the truck back together. While everything was apart I changed out the fuel filler neck/hoses, painted entire bed and frame with chassis saver paint. Replaced tons of bolts/hardware...etc. Figure I'm there with everything off, why not.

-Nigel

 

Did you use motor oil to lubricate the O-rings on both ends when installing back?

 

Initially I did not use any oil. I then read that you should use some type of lube for the o rings in the block. I took them back out and used some motor oil to lightly rub on the block o rings. The o rings in the rail I left as is since they were not hard to put in.

-Nigel

 

By any chance, do you know when you prime the fuel system before starting, how long the fuel pressure holds ...

 

Should hold for a few MONTHS

This is why engines should start easily after sitting for a few months in most cases, or a few weeks for sure.

Older systems use 30psi fuel pressure, newer 60psi

Ford Fuel pumps general run for 2 seconds with Key ON, that's about 10-15psi of added pressure if it was at 0 psi, if pressure was good then it just "tops it up"
But if it was at 0psi then you need to cycle the Key ON and OFF 2 or 3 times before trying to start, get it up to, or above, 30psi

 

1994 B2300 (Ranger) 2.3L

KOEO - pressure will go up around 38 PSI and it will hold for a while but eventually goes back to zero (maybe one hour later)
KOER - pressure will stay around 39 PSI. When you turn off the engine, pressure holds but again, it will eventually go to zero (maybe one hour later)

I searched online and someone was saying that it should hold pressure for days ... just curious why mine doesn't hold. I don't see any leaks anywhere.

 

1994 uses a Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engines Fuel rail, it is set for approx. 42psi
It is just a spring loaded valve that is pushed open at 42psi to let "extra" fuel flow back to the tank on the Return fuel line.

Besides the fuel Return line the FPR also has a vacuum hose attached, when engine is running vacuum reduces average pressure in the system to about 35psi
It could be the FPR is leaking a bit, so pressure drops over time after fuel pump is off.
Only other pressure leak, without smelling gasoline, lol, is the check valve inside the fuel pump, it should hold pressure when pump is off

But pre-1998 Rangers will usually start OK with one 2 second run of fuel pump to get to 15psi, 1998 and up Rangers used 60psi fuel pressure so they often won't start, if pressure drops to 0 over night

 

I have hard time starting my truck and require few cranks to start up my truck. Once it's up, runs normal, no CEL. I replaced few things while troubleshooting this issue, such as fuel pump, FPG, fuel injectors, fuel filter, PCV valve, CTS, IAC, coils pack, sparks plugs, sparks cables. Problem still remains, any suggestions?

The issue started a year ago, it was running fine before and never had any issues. I always started with one crank.

It has 350K miles.

 

Turn key on count to 3 and turn key off, repeat 2 times then try to start.

If it starts first crank then you are losing fuel pressure when engine sits

Spark, 1994 used an ICM, ignition control module, last year of the ICMs
These were known for slow spark on startup when older, they can be tested at many auto parts stores.
Also the wiring needs to be check for loose connections and frayed ends on the connectors.

On the 2.3l Lima engine ONLY the exhaust side coil pack and spark plugs are working when starter motor is on, intake side starts to work at about 400RPMs, after starter up.
Both spark plugs in each cylinder fire at the same time, there is no alternator or other "weirdness", lol, just the exhaust side thing when cranking engine.

 

The fuel pressure holds during start-up but won't hold over night though. I prime the system by turning the key on few time, problem remains. ICM was replaced recently as well. All wirings have been checked.

From what you said, the exhaust side coil pack and sparks plugs are the one to start the engine? Any other suggestions?

Once it starts, truck runs fine, meaning good idle, no loss power, nothing abnormal in general. When the engine is up to operating temperature, starting is no longer an issue. It starts right up.

 

I have a strange issue, see if you can help out ...

I used spark tester (like a pen) to check if there is any sparks for my spark plugs. When I started the engine, car was in idle, I noticed: Cylinder #1 and #2 have no sparks on the intake and exhaust sides. I thought #2 and #3 are a pair and #1 and #4 are another pair from the coil pack. How come #1 and #2 have no sparks but #3 and #4 have?? I swapped around the cables, plugs ... they are all confirmed to be good. The coil packs are new as well and I ohmed them out, it's good.

Do we get sparks on all cylinders?? I am sure the answer is yes. ;-) Please HELP.

 

2.3l engine would barely run with no spark on 1 and 2, so I would say the fault is in the test instrument

Yes, all 8 spark plugs spark at their cylinders TDC, on both compression and exhaust strokes, so once per RPM

Why it would detect 3 and 4 spark and not 1 and 2 is a mystery