05 edge 2wd to 4wd
#1
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
4wd is technically bolt-on for the Torsion Bar trucks, but you may be missing one of the support brackets on the frame for the front differential. You would need to fab something up for that to support the back of the diff.
Also, you're not gonna be able to run anything other than a manual transfer case, and those are getting harder to find as the years go on.
The mechanicals of the swap are easy, but the electrical stuff like the output shaft speed sensors and speedometer readings can be tricky depending on the truck.
If you don't really need the 4x4, but like the look of lifted, just throw on a set of 4" lift spindles.
Also, you're not gonna be able to run anything other than a manual transfer case, and those are getting harder to find as the years go on.
The mechanicals of the swap are easy, but the electrical stuff like the output shaft speed sensors and speedometer readings can be tricky depending on the truck.
If you don't really need the 4x4, but like the look of lifted, just throw on a set of 4" lift spindles.
#3
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes +1 ^^^
4x4 Rangers start off as 4x4 Rangers with the frame, it was never a "bolt on" option
At the factory they build 4x4s for a few days then switch frames and built 4x2, they don't add front drive train to a 4x2 frame
IMO, you sell a 4x2 and buy a 4x4 if you want a 4x4
Not that it matters to most but if you change to 4x4 the VIN would now be incorrect
5th, 6th, and 7th numbers in VIN are the chassis/frame type
R10 — Ranger 4x2
R11 — Ranger 4x4
R14 — Ranger 4x2 (2-door SuperCab)
R15 — Ranger 4x4 (2-door SuperCab)
R18 — Ranger 4x2 (4-door SuperCab)
R19 — Ranger 4x4 (4-door SuperCab)
4x4 Rangers start off as 4x4 Rangers with the frame, it was never a "bolt on" option
At the factory they build 4x4s for a few days then switch frames and built 4x2, they don't add front drive train to a 4x2 frame
IMO, you sell a 4x2 and buy a 4x4 if you want a 4x4
Not that it matters to most but if you change to 4x4 the VIN would now be incorrect
5th, 6th, and 7th numbers in VIN are the chassis/frame type
R10 — Ranger 4x2
R11 — Ranger 4x4
R14 — Ranger 4x2 (2-door SuperCab)
R15 — Ranger 4x4 (2-door SuperCab)
R18 — Ranger 4x2 (4-door SuperCab)
R19 — Ranger 4x4 (4-door SuperCab)
#4
Hi Austin,
It's easier than you think. I say that will full confidence because I literally just did the same thing on my '05 Edge. You will need the following:
- Front diff with matching gears to the rear.
- Front CV axles
- Knuckles with bearings and rotors. You can use your old brake calipers and caliper brackets.
- Front driveshaft
- Rear driveshaft
- Transmission output shaft
- Transfer case. You can use either electric or manual, but if you go with electric you will have to remove the motor and jimmy-rig a way to shift it using push-pull cables.
The only fabrication required is to add a mount to your truck frame to hold the third/middle axle support. It's not too difficult. I welded mine but you could bolt something on if you had to. It's important to know that you will lose ABS and have an ABS light on all the time. This can be fixed but I haven't done it yet so I can't comment any further. My biggest piece of advice is to just wait patiently until you can find a wrecked donor vehicle. That way you have everything you need right in front of you and can forego pulling apart the transmission to swap the input shafts. Additionally, you can use the donor ABS module, gauge cluster, and gauge cluster plug to tinker with getting your ABS back.
Hit me up if you have questions.
It's easier than you think. I say that will full confidence because I literally just did the same thing on my '05 Edge. You will need the following:
- Front diff with matching gears to the rear.
- Front CV axles
- Knuckles with bearings and rotors. You can use your old brake calipers and caliper brackets.
- Front driveshaft
- Rear driveshaft
- Transmission output shaft
- Transfer case. You can use either electric or manual, but if you go with electric you will have to remove the motor and jimmy-rig a way to shift it using push-pull cables.
The only fabrication required is to add a mount to your truck frame to hold the third/middle axle support. It's not too difficult. I welded mine but you could bolt something on if you had to. It's important to know that you will lose ABS and have an ABS light on all the time. This can be fixed but I haven't done it yet so I can't comment any further. My biggest piece of advice is to just wait patiently until you can find a wrecked donor vehicle. That way you have everything you need right in front of you and can forego pulling apart the transmission to swap the input shafts. Additionally, you can use the donor ABS module, gauge cluster, and gauge cluster plug to tinker with getting your ABS back.
Hit me up if you have questions.
#6
The issue is that the tone ring on the 2wd rotors is a different diameter from the one in the 4wd bearings/hubs. So the signal is unreadable. The solution I've found requires replacing the 2wd ABS module with a 4wd one and wiring pin 52 on the module plug to pin 9 on the gauge cluster plug, IIRC.
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