1990 Ranger 4x4 not working - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 06-19-2015
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1990 Ranger 4x4 not working

I just bought a 90 Ranger 4x4 yesterday for $500 and the 4wd doesn't work. When I press the buttons on the dash nothing lights up. It has manual locking hubs though. I locked those in and still nothing. Could be the switch or a fuse? Any help on where i should start first will be much appreciated.

Here's a pic of it. It's beat up but can't complain for $500

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Old 06-19-2015
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i do believe that year of ranger , the transfer case is in fact manual shift not electric
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Old 06-19-2015
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Yeah but it has the buttons on the dash? I'm pretty lost this is the first ranger I've owned I'm used to S10's.
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Old 06-19-2015
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need a picture to verify
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Old 06-19-2015
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https://flic.kr/p/uC755F

There u go assuming that link works I'm on my phone right now.
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Old 06-19-2015
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you have the rarer electric transfer case , most were manual

there is a switch on the side of the transfer case where several wires lead into

this switch lights up the 4x4 / low lights , wires may be corroded and have failed

you will need a multimeter for the connector , to test for connectivity

the electric motor moves a internal shift collar that engages / dis-engages the front drive shaft

either to 4x4 high or 4x4 low ( as the other switch shows )

over time a lot gunk inside the transfer case will settle around the shift collar , jamming it

you will need a dirt road some where around you , drive around in 4x4 high ( turn front locking hubs to ON ) for awhile , this will dislodge the gunk and release the shift collar ( sometimes )

drain the old fluid and pour in fresh ATF fluid along with 2 to 3 ounces of DURALUBE
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Old 06-19-2015
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Alright thanks I'm gonna mess with it Sunday and I'll post my findings
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Old 06-24-2015
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Ok I checked the plug it looks fine and I unplugged and cleaned it and plugged it back in. I don't have a multimeter so I couldn't check that out. I did drive around for a while wit the hubs locked in and still nothing. I did read the owners manual and from what I gathered from that these didn't even come with electronic 4wd with manual locking hubs? Is that true? I don't know if someone converted it a long time ago or what. Might just buy a new dash switch and see if that does anything. If anyone has anymore input I'd appreciate it thanks.
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Old 06-24-2015
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i need a picture of the rear of the transfer case to be sure

manual locking hubs are the preferred hub , also check the rear of the fuse panel for corroded wire connections.

the fuse may also be blown
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Old 06-24-2015
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The fuse was good but i noticed there was 2 plugs not plugged into the back of the fuse panel. I plugged those back in but it's still not working.

Here's some pics.



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Old 06-24-2015
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the shift motor is shot

the motor body is severely corroded , more than likely the inside of the motor probable has water in it

i would try a wrecker 1st for a replacement motor , RockAuto Parts Catalog would be my main choice though

those manual locking hubs are in fact FACTORY parts
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Old 06-24-2015
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Ok I'll look into that. Kinda want to replace the switch first though because they're only $20. Although that's a long shot.
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Old 06-25-2015
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Also just thought of something. The rear anti lock light and brake light is on. Would that cause the 4wd not to work? I know that might on a newer vehicle but not sure on something that old.
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Old 06-25-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmac2007 View Post
Also just thought of something. The rear anti lock light and brake light is on. Would that cause the 4wd not to work? I know that might on a newer vehicle but not sure on something that old.
1st you should test the 4x4 switches electrical connections for voltage infeed before you purchase a replacement switch

rear antilock brake problem will not dis-engage power to the transfer case shift motor

al though you should have that looked at mechanical wise as a safety feature
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Old 07-02-2015
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I haven't had much time to check anything but, I did buy a Ford obd1 code reader. It's always ran pretty rough and I just did a tune up and cleaned the upper intake with seafoam intake cleaner and that helped a little. I checked the codes and all I got was 15 which is: No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure). Not sure if that's right or matters or would affect how it runs. A friend and I established it needs a fuel pressure regulator so that will be my next step. I should add that I do get a check engine light occasionally when driving.
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