My Ranger started last winter by not engaging until engine has warmed up. If wasn,t warm and it did engage it would only go a few feet and then no fwd travel.. Even in the summer at 65 mph if I let off throttle for a second then push gas back down the xmsn would stall for a second then reengage.. I must admit I haven,t changed the fluid and filter. Is there a drain plug in the converter and how do I access it?

 

Does Reverse work OK?

All automatics(not a Ford thing) work on fluid pressure, there is no direct Drive or Reverse, these are engaged by clutches and bands(brakes) by routing ATF fluid at pressure thru the Valve Body to the clutches and bands to activate and deactivate each

Forward requires minimum of 100psi pressure, Reverse requires 150psi
If there is a pressure issue then Reverse is effected first usually, thats why is common on any automatic to lose Reverse as problems start to occur
Leaks in valve body gaskets and seals over time lowers available pressure, and of course low fluid levels, pump can also get weak over time

There are also Sprags(one way clutches), if transmission doesn't engage in D but does engage in 2 or 1 the forward Sprag is bad, need a full rebuild to repair


No, the Rangers never used torque converters with drain plugs, you can buy models with drain plugs but it wasn't a standard offering in new Rangers or in replacement torque converters
Yes, drain the fluid and have a look at the fluid and inside the pan for metal bits, if found then trans needs a rebuild for sure, don't waste new fluid on it

A4LD was used from 1985 thru 1994, then got a new valve body and was renamed the 4R55E or 5R55E and was used 1995 thru 2011, so same transmission internally for 26 years, not many automatics have a 26 year run, so its a good transmission if maintained and good parts are used in a rebuild

 

So where do I tap in to measure the pressures? Is this done at idle and in gear Fwd REV? So what about what I said for the summer ok winter has the issues?

 

Have you checked the fluid level?

 

A4LD service manual here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...4LD_manual.pdf

Yes, you test pressure in an automatic at idle and then at WOT(wide open throttle) in gear, so FOOT ON THE BRAKE, or tires off the ground
Gauge needs to be capable of 400psi to be on the safe side, 200+ is expected

 

Why would it engage then go into limbo. Its like the pump is sucking the pan dry before return of used fluid occurs. What about a 1 quart overfill?? I might drive this truck twice a month and always less than 50 miles. Town to home at 55 Thanks Jim Senn.

 

Couldn't "suck the pan dry" if there is any fluid showing in the dipstick
But if you haven't changed the filter then that could be clogged up enough to limit flow into the pump, long shot

Most likely one-way clutch(sprag) is failing, try starting off in 1 instead of D, the coast clutch is also used to keep trans engaged, then shift to D after you are rolling along
If it always stays engaged when starting in 1 that would confirm Sprag issues
Reverse also uses Coast clutch

 

Well I installed a New Filter and 5 quarts new fluid. It took a few seconds it seemd to get things moving again. I have driven it 2 times and it operated okay . The firdt time I started in low.. Fly it and watch it. Thanks Jim

 

I have a similar problem with my 1990 Ford Ranger, 2.3liter, 2WD. Should I start a new thread?

 

I Overfilled my xmsn by about 1 qt. I hope that is not the real reason why its presently working like the old days???

 

Well its cold again so the same problem is back. This past summer it operated pretty well. Its acting the same as before engage then goes to no forward movement then it reengages? Just like it runs out of fluid? Guys I really don,t want to go inside the xmsn. If I adjusted the bands and maybe a new vacum modulator. What else can I do externally?? I,m to old to remove a tranny Thanks Jim Senn Athol Idaho

 

Any ideas out there?

 

After reading this thread, one idea I had is that your 33 year old transmission has some worn out parts.
Even if you got the correct pressure gauge and learned the pressure was either good or bad, what would you then do?
I'm no expert but it sure sounds like, "trannie out and full rebuild time" to me.
Ask around and find a transmission shop that'll tackle your A4LD.
Get this cold weather symptom down so you can demonstrate it to the repairmen.
By the way, how many miles are on your '90?
Best o' luck.

ps 1) Driveline squeaks when cold?...any shaking? Service the driveshaft then, if necessary.
2) If the unit comes out, consider replacing ancient cooling lines. If the radiator is ratty, the cooling loop might be 'last leggin' it'.
Bypass it and install an aftermarket cooler. This way, if the old radiator ever blows, it's all you'd have to touch.

 

217500

 

Well the temp has come up and my xmsn seems to work fine. I did adjust the bands over the winter.10 ft. lbs. loosen 2 turns. So far it has worked fine,I even moved my big heavy boat with no problems. It seems to me that I really don,t have any seriously worn interior metal parts. What about those interior solenoid valves inside? Is it possible they get sluggish in the cold oil?

 

A4LD only has 1 solenoid for shifting and that's for OD, 3/4 shift solenoid, 1988-1994
Other solenoid is to lock torque converter(TCC) when driving above 35mph

And in no years or models of automatics was a solenoid used to engage forward or reverse, that has always been strictly mechanical by moving a valve in the valve body manually using the shift rod

But automatics do need Fluid Pressure to engage and shift
80-100psi for forward, 130-150psi for Reverse(lower pressure is why automatics often lose Reverse first, or have slow engagement)
The valve body routes that pressure to the bands and clutches to engage and disengage them, so any leaks at valve seals or gaskets will cause lower pressure