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This may be a repeat, and if it is, I'm sorry. I am wanting to change the filter and fluid in my 90 Ranger (which has the A4LD) by dropping the pan. Anyone know about how much fluid will have to be replaced? AutoZone said 3qts, but I wanted to double check. Also, does anyone know what the full capacity of that transmission (and torque converter) is? I want to get an idea of what percentage of fluid will be replaced as it looked pretty bad, and I've got a clunk or a bump from 1 to 2, and I feel like the transmission might be struggling due to the fluid.
Same as the 4R44Es and 5R55Es, 9.3quarts 2WD, 9.8quarts 4WD
4x4s had deeper oil pan
But...............yes it will only take 3 or 4 quarts if you just drain the pan fluid
If you want and can afford it, lol, drain the pan and refill, don't change gasket or filter yet
Start engine and let it idle 5 minutes or so, shift trans manually thru all the gears during this time, and let it sit in each gear 30 seconds or so
Shut off engine and drain fluid again
Refill and repeat
Then drain fluid 3rd time and install new pan gasket and filter then refill
That should get most of the old fluid and gunk out
I have a feeling you'll regret changing the fluid. I've seen it numerous times. People get a vehicle that has dark colored, high mileage transmission fluid, they're having transmission issues, they change the fluid, and then the vehicle won't even pull itself. The clutch/friction material is suspended in the fluid and still allows parts to "grab" each other as they should, then after changing the fluid, the new fluid is so slick everything starts to slip severely. I've seen it several times in the 4r44 models, which is really just an upgraded A4LD.
My buddy had an early to mid 90's Explorer with similar issues and we thought changing the old fluid and filter might help. After we did it, the Explorer wouldn't move itself in ANY gear.
The A4LD, as you probably know already, is a ticking time bomb of a transmission.. A rebuild is in your future. Sooner rather than later...
So what happens in the scenarios where it isnt changed? I know it eventually goes out, does it slowly get worse or just one day its fine, and the next it doesn't move? I know its not slipping, or anything like that yet. I can get a rebuilt one locally with 20k miles on it, and I've got someone to put it in. If I can drive it for six more months out of it, I'd just buy other transmission and drive it til it goes out. I've actually been on the fence about what to do with it because of this exact issue. If it were yours, would you just drive it til it goes out?
If it were mine, I don't think I would be changing the fluid. At least not all of it. Depends on how dark it is really. I'd probably be looking in to a manual transmission swap if it were mine, and if it was in good enough condition to be worth saving.
You could try to do more research and reading on your issue to narrow down your problem. Try Google searching "A4LD 1 2 Flare" or maybe "A4LD 1 2 shift" thud, clunk, problem, etc...
Find out now if trans is as bad as "they say", lol
Any extra miles you get will just strand you somewhere with a towing bill if it is "that bad"
A4LD was made from 1985 to 2011, so 26 years, Ford wouldn't keep a "bad" transmission in production for 26 years, no car maker would
All automatics have their faults, just like all engines and vehicles do.
And all automatics will have to be rebuilt, they have moving parts and clutches and brake(bands) which wear out, just like brakes on wheels wear out, or clutches with manual transmissions do.
If trans fluid is dark and smells "burned" then yes that means its old and probably some slipping has been going on for awhile, it is what it is
Changing fluid may cause problems, but it may also fix problems, I think its probably better than 50/50 it will help, but I have never won the Lottery so what do I know, lol
There are products like Lucas transmission fix that has friction stabilizers and rubber/fiber treatment(swells gaskets and seals) that can squeeze a few more miles out of a worn out transmission, doesn't "fix" anything just helps keep pressure up so maybe less slipping
It's still got a red tint to it, its more of a reddish brown, and it doesn't really smell repulsive. Kind of has a sickly sweet machine smell. I was just going to drop the pan, change the filter, replace the 3 quarts or whatever it is, and then see how she does. It doesn't look anything like the "black" stuff I've seen online. Its not gritty, and still feels like it may be effective. I've got no reason to think I was lied to about the mileage, so if thats true, 100k miles could be a critical point where replacing that old fluid would possibly help the transmission live a little longer? I can tell you that I have thoroughly tested it on hills (i live in the southern part of middle Tennessee) and it has no problem shifting going up hills, or shifting in any situation, just the engagement and the transition feeling different when its going from 1 to 2.
Part of me is like "well you can just drive it till it stops" because it is working but I feel like that is contrary to wanting to put some money into it, and I also know that if the fluid needs changed, neglecting that in itself could cost the transmission.
I'll research a bit more, and make a decision. The guy with the rebuilt a4ld's might not have them forever. I've got the money to buy it if I need it, maybe now would be the perfect time to roll the dice.
You could easily buy a rebuild kit (around $500) for your trans and go through it yourself. Although, if you do that it might be a better option to find an A4LD that was originally behind a 4.0 and use it to rebuild. They're a tad bit stronger.
I'll disagree with Ron here on one point though, as the A4LD wasn't built for nearly that long. Sure, numerous transmissions were built afterwards that were indeed modified variants of the A4LD, but they're also vastly different in their own ways. They were also weak from the get-go, just as the A4LD was. The 4R44 models were crap. The 5R55's were marginally better but were still prone to problems in their early years.
Ford has always had a problem with building transmissions that were built to last. GM has had similar issues as well. All with their automatics mainly. I really like many "Ford" manual transmissions though (many were of foreign origins), and I try to stick with those for a reason. They last if you take care of them. Hell, they even last if you beat on them severely. I'd much rather change clutches/pressure plates than rebuild an automatic. ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!
Oh if I have to replace this transmission, I will definitely tear it apart just to see the inside of because of my curious nature but the diagrams I've seen look kind of intimidating. Those guys on Youtube make it look easy though.
Bird76Mojo, how hard is converting to 5speed versus replacing the transmission? I would assume they would be similar with the exception of modifications to account for the shifter and the clutch pedal?
Also Bird76Mojo, I know exactly what you mean when you speak of the A4LD. I bought this truck on impulse, I'm not a fan of any particular manufacturer, so not really a ford guy, or gm, or import. I have no maker bias really I just thought the truck a) sounded good, b) drove strong and c) the body, for being 29 years old was in good shape. Once I got home and began to research it, well after having paid for it, I discovered the transmission and thought "oh crap".
I had 94 Mazda 626 once, that the transmission went out, this was back when I was still basically a kid (in my 20's) and I think that bastard had a A4LD in it. I test drove the car, knew something was wrong with the transmission so I took it to the dealership that was selling it and told the guy "I think somethings wrong with the transmission" and hes like "well I'll test drive it tonight and check but I think its fine" so I went home. MY girlfriend at the time really wanted the car because it was a nice car (body and interior) and when I checked the next day he said all was well. We bought it, and maybe put 2000 miles on it before I had to limp it to a buy here pay here that gave me scrap prices for it. So I know exactly what you mean about the issues Ford had with this transmission. I'm not 100% on the a4ld being in that mazda, and I wish I could remember in detail how it died. I do remember that it was shifting hard, and probably slipping (this was before I even knew what that was).
I was wrong, appears that Mazda used the GF4A-EL transmission, either way when I read about the A4LD I smacked my forehead and wished I wasn't so impulsive but I've got it, its out there and I like it, although it needs a lot of work, I think the motor is strong, and the body, doesnt look bad. I'll see if I can find some pictures on the PC to share.
Dropped the pan. The fluid didnt look as bad as I thought. There was no chunks or anything like that in the pan or on the magnet. but there was that really fine black stuff that ive seen in every filter change video I've watched and the person always says is normal. Wasn't really that dirty in the pan but there is ALOT of mud and dirt (earth dirt) under that truck. I havent taken the filter off yet, I'm still cleaning the gasket off and cleaning up the underside of the pan, so I dunno what the inside looks like but honestly I expected a lot worse. This doesnt look that bad compared to some of the fluid in the videos ive watched. Heres to hoping!
My latest burnt up slushbox (auto) was an AOD and when I dropped the pan, the fluid looked new but there was a lot of black particulate in the pan. The OD was burnt out of that trans.
This will probably be a crap-shoot for you. Just do whatever you think is best after doing your research. Whatever puts your mind at ease.. And just enjoy the truck for as long as the trans lasts.
As for a manual trans swap, the best way would really be to get an entire manual truck for the swap. That way you know you've got everything you'll need. It can be done by gathering parts over time, but you're more likely to be missing small parts/nuts/bolts that you'll end up needing. The manual swap should be well documented on this site or TheRangerStation. You'd need the trans/bellhousing/shifter/clutch master cylinder and the entire pedal assembly. There might also be transmission crossmember differences as well. A driveshaft yoke might be required along with a different length driveshaft. I'm not fully up to speed on all of the differences, and it's been a long time since I messed with factory parts (either manual or auto) in a late 80's to early 90's Ranger/BII. My last experience was a V8/T5Z swap in my 87 Ranger.
the same question I had to ask thanks for all replies it also helped a lot now i am using the 4R44Es and 5R55Es, 9.3quarts 2WD, 9.8quarts 4WD 4x4s had a deeper oil pan. But I took 3 or 4 quarts. I had to use in a towing truck of new york towing services near me, thanks to all again.
UPDATE: So she's still "trucking". The shifting got a little smoother, and I've had absolutely no decline in the operation of the transmission. No slipping or anything, so it seems stable. Fluid still looks good and new. Interestingly enough, the filter was aftermarket, indicating it's been changed in the past. The truck has lots of OEM stuff on it, the solenoid/starter that I just changed were OEM, which kinda just supports what I was told about the mileage. I wish I had the ability and the funds to overhaul the seals, gaskets and suspension, at 103k that motor has a lot of life left in it. Maybe I'll get skilled enough to do it one day.
I was on here updating yet another thread, so I figured I'd stop in on this one.
danelwayne: I'm glad it helped you out, I was really nervous at first, but it all worked out. Congrats!
