2000 Manual Transmission Grinding at Higher RPMs
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From: Gainesville
2000 Manual Transmission Grinding at Higher RPMs
Hello All, I just recently replaced my clutch, slave, and master cylinder in my 2000 3.0L 4x2 ranger and for about 3 days it drove really well, but now it is giving me a horrific grinding when i change gears while the engine is revved. If i wait a few seconds between accelerating and shifting and listen for the engine to come down i have no problem smoothly getting into gear. I truly have no idea where to go for this issue but am doing my best to avoid putting it in the shop so any help is greatly appreciated.
Is it easy to shift into 1st when you are stopped?
If so then clutch system is fine
If not then you need to re-bleed the system
You have an M5OD-R1 transmission
It has softer metal synchromesh "plates/gears" for all 6 hard metal gears: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and reverse
Output shaft/drive line is always spinning at rear wheel speed/RPMs, synchromesh "plates/gears" are attached to output shaft.
Input shaft is the clutch disc and always spinning at Engine RPMs unless clutch pedal is pushed down all the way.
So.........when you are stopped and push clutch pedal down, then push shifter forward to engage 1st gear, you are pushing the synchromesh "gear", now at 0 RPMs, against 1st gear, which "was" spinning at Engine RPMs, 700 RPMs at Idle.
So the synchromesh "gear" has to slow down 1st gear to 0 RPMs so you can engage it, RPM Matching is required to shift into any gear
The synchromesh "gears" have slots and tabs that will make a grinding noise if RPMs are not matched, when this happens it wears down the softer metal synchromesh "gear" so it will tend to grind even more as it wears out.
It reads like at least 2 of your synchromesh "gears" are worn down, only fix is a rebuild, but you can just use your gas pedal to Match RPMs better yourself
This is not at all a common issue with the M5OD-R1(M5R1) transmission.
So transmission must have been abused in the past, forced shifting with or without clutch on the effected gears.
When you shift gears you should push lightly on the shift arm and you can "feel" the synchromesh "gear" match RPMs for the gear selected, and it will engage when RPMs are Matched.
If you want faster shifting then you need to learn how to RPM match using the gas pedal, prior to synchromesh "gears", you had to double clutch and use the gas pedal to RPM match to shift gears.
If so then clutch system is fine
If not then you need to re-bleed the system
You have an M5OD-R1 transmission
It has softer metal synchromesh "plates/gears" for all 6 hard metal gears: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and reverse
Output shaft/drive line is always spinning at rear wheel speed/RPMs, synchromesh "plates/gears" are attached to output shaft.
Input shaft is the clutch disc and always spinning at Engine RPMs unless clutch pedal is pushed down all the way.
So.........when you are stopped and push clutch pedal down, then push shifter forward to engage 1st gear, you are pushing the synchromesh "gear", now at 0 RPMs, against 1st gear, which "was" spinning at Engine RPMs, 700 RPMs at Idle.
So the synchromesh "gear" has to slow down 1st gear to 0 RPMs so you can engage it, RPM Matching is required to shift into any gear
The synchromesh "gears" have slots and tabs that will make a grinding noise if RPMs are not matched, when this happens it wears down the softer metal synchromesh "gear" so it will tend to grind even more as it wears out.
It reads like at least 2 of your synchromesh "gears" are worn down, only fix is a rebuild, but you can just use your gas pedal to Match RPMs better yourself
This is not at all a common issue with the M5OD-R1(M5R1) transmission.
So transmission must have been abused in the past, forced shifting with or without clutch on the effected gears.
When you shift gears you should push lightly on the shift arm and you can "feel" the synchromesh "gear" match RPMs for the gear selected, and it will engage when RPMs are Matched.
If you want faster shifting then you need to learn how to RPM match using the gas pedal, prior to synchromesh "gears", you had to double clutch and use the gas pedal to RPM match to shift gears.
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