tranny grinding when shifting into second gear
#1
01-17-2016
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: San Berdo, CA
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tranny grinding when shifting into second gear
Hi guys, having a problem with shifting into second gear, I drive an 04 ranger edge manual 5 spd tranny. When shifting from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd, my gears are grinding and I have no clue why. I just recently replaced my clutch, pilot bearing and slave cylinder with all new fluids for it. Plz help
#2
01-17-2016
Synchromesh gear is worn out on second gear.
The rear wheels are connected to the transmission output shaft, so if wheels are turning so is output shaft in transmission.
The input shaft is connected to the engine and the gears in the transmission, it can be disconnected from engine using the clutch.
When you shift from one gear to another you are moving what is called a Dog Gear.
There is a dog gear between 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, 5th/reverse
The 3 Dog gears are connected to output shaft so spin at output shaft speed/rpm
When you move the shifter to 1st you are pushing the dog gear towards 1st gear synchromesh, this is a softer metal that spins 1st gear to match dog gear rpm, and dog gear engages the slots in 1st gear, you are now in 1st gear.
If rear wheels were stopped, 0 rpm then the synchro had to slow down 1st gear(input shaft, clutch disc) to 0 rpms, this is why it can be hard to shift into 1st when stopped.
When you shift into 2nd same thing happens, shifter pushes dog gear towards 2nd gear's synchro to match dog gears rpms with 2nd gear rpms, if synchro isn't working then you will get grinding noise as dog gear tabs force 2nd gear slots to match rpms so dog gear can engage 2nd gear.
So doesn't matter if you are going from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd, 2nd gear synchro is gone.
You can try RPM matching, that's what people did before synchromesh, or just skip shifting to 2nd if you don't need to.
Fixing a synchro requires full transmission disassembly.
Why it failed might be found on disassembly but unknowable at this time.
Trans should run OK but no crystal ball here, failed synchro could be a sign of more trouble to come.
It would have nothing to do with clutch replacement, although worn out clutch causes it to be harder to shift, harder to shift causes more wear on synchros
The rear wheels are connected to the transmission output shaft, so if wheels are turning so is output shaft in transmission.
The input shaft is connected to the engine and the gears in the transmission, it can be disconnected from engine using the clutch.
When you shift from one gear to another you are moving what is called a Dog Gear.
There is a dog gear between 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, 5th/reverse
The 3 Dog gears are connected to output shaft so spin at output shaft speed/rpm
When you move the shifter to 1st you are pushing the dog gear towards 1st gear synchromesh, this is a softer metal that spins 1st gear to match dog gear rpm, and dog gear engages the slots in 1st gear, you are now in 1st gear.
If rear wheels were stopped, 0 rpm then the synchro had to slow down 1st gear(input shaft, clutch disc) to 0 rpms, this is why it can be hard to shift into 1st when stopped.
When you shift into 2nd same thing happens, shifter pushes dog gear towards 2nd gear's synchro to match dog gears rpms with 2nd gear rpms, if synchro isn't working then you will get grinding noise as dog gear tabs force 2nd gear slots to match rpms so dog gear can engage 2nd gear.
So doesn't matter if you are going from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd, 2nd gear synchro is gone.
You can try RPM matching, that's what people did before synchromesh, or just skip shifting to 2nd if you don't need to.
Fixing a synchro requires full transmission disassembly.
Why it failed might be found on disassembly but unknowable at this time.
Trans should run OK but no crystal ball here, failed synchro could be a sign of more trouble to come.
It would have nothing to do with clutch replacement, although worn out clutch causes it to be harder to shift, harder to shift causes more wear on synchros
#3
01-17-2016
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: San Berdo, CA
Posts: 27
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That makes alot of sense, thanks for that
Synchromesh gear is worn out on second gear.
The rear wheels are connected to the transmission output shaft, so if wheels are turning so is output shaft in transmission.
The input shaft is connected to the engine and the gears in the transmission, it can be disconnected from engine using the clutch.
When you shift from one gear to another you are moving what is called a Dog Gear.
There is a dog gear between 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, 5th/reverse
The 3 Dog gears are connected to output shaft so spin at output shaft speed/rpm
When you move the shifter to 1st you are pushing the dog gear towards 1st gear synchromesh, this is a softer metal that spins 1st gear to match dog gear rpm, and dog gear engages the slots in 1st gear, you are now in 1st gear.
If rear wheels were stopped, 0 rpm then the synchro had to slow down 1st gear(input shaft, clutch disc) to 0 rpms, this is why it can be hard to shift into 1st when stopped.
When you shift into 2nd same thing happens, shifter pushes dog gear towards 2nd gear's synchro to match dog gears rpms with 2nd gear rpms, if synchro isn't working then you will get grinding noise as dog gear tabs force 2nd gear slots to match rpms so dog gear can engage 2nd gear.
So doesn't matter if you are going from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd, 2nd gear synchro is gone.
You can try RPM matching, that's what people did before synchromesh, or just skip shifting to 2nd if you don't need to.
Fixing a synchro requires full transmission disassembly.
Why it failed might be found on disassembly but unknowable at this time.
Trans should run OK but no crystal ball here, failed synchro could be a sign of more trouble to come.
It would have nothing to do with clutch replacement, although worn out clutch causes it to be harder to shift, harder to shift causes more wear on synchros
The rear wheels are connected to the transmission output shaft, so if wheels are turning so is output shaft in transmission.
The input shaft is connected to the engine and the gears in the transmission, it can be disconnected from engine using the clutch.
When you shift from one gear to another you are moving what is called a Dog Gear.
There is a dog gear between 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, 5th/reverse
The 3 Dog gears are connected to output shaft so spin at output shaft speed/rpm
When you move the shifter to 1st you are pushing the dog gear towards 1st gear synchromesh, this is a softer metal that spins 1st gear to match dog gear rpm, and dog gear engages the slots in 1st gear, you are now in 1st gear.
If rear wheels were stopped, 0 rpm then the synchro had to slow down 1st gear(input shaft, clutch disc) to 0 rpms, this is why it can be hard to shift into 1st when stopped.
When you shift into 2nd same thing happens, shifter pushes dog gear towards 2nd gear's synchro to match dog gears rpms with 2nd gear rpms, if synchro isn't working then you will get grinding noise as dog gear tabs force 2nd gear slots to match rpms so dog gear can engage 2nd gear.
So doesn't matter if you are going from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd, 2nd gear synchro is gone.
You can try RPM matching, that's what people did before synchromesh, or just skip shifting to 2nd if you don't need to.
Fixing a synchro requires full transmission disassembly.
Why it failed might be found on disassembly but unknowable at this time.
Trans should run OK but no crystal ball here, failed synchro could be a sign of more trouble to come.
It would have nothing to do with clutch replacement, although worn out clutch causes it to be harder to shift, harder to shift causes more wear on synchros
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