I've tried searching to no avail.

My truck has been parked for the winter. I usually start it up every week at the most every two weeks, and take it for a drive. I let it run for a while and always check all the fluids.

Well today I get in and go to put it in first gear and magically I have no clutch. The pedal went all the way to the floor. It seems to have a bit of resistance only the last little bit, but thats it. Will not let me shift into gear at all. I have no clue what the issue is. The little reservoir by the brake reservoir is full. Do I have air in the lines or some other issue? How did air get in..its not like the clutch ran dry?

 

mine does the same thing when the temp gets below -20, i just let it warm up & its fine

 

let it warm up for like 15 minutes...still nada..

 

Have you tried to bleed it?

 

crap.. that sucks, you can try bleeding the slave but im no transmission guy, wish i was more help to ya

 

I havent tried bleeding it. Guess thats next weekend. All i had to do was move my ranger so i can work on my CRV. I tried to move the damn ranger and poof. no clutch! this weekend the CRV and its cat converter were top on the list...next weekend i'll do the ranger..atleast its free! hopefully thats the only problem! Is the bleeder valve 1/4 inch? just so i can make sure i have some tubing for it?

 

either 1/4" or 8mm I think. Havent had to touch mine since I replaced the slave a few years back. On the plus side though, when mine took a dump, I got really good at shifting w/o using the pedal, stoplights and traffic were kind of a bitch... good times only having one vehicle.

 

cool..thanks man..i hope its just a bleed it needs and not the slave that crapped out

 

I have a 2008 and mine did the same thing. You think your reservoir is full but did you pull out the little rubber condom out first before checking the level. The o rings in the slave cylinder are a problem. When its cold out your slave will actually leak. Pull the rubber boot out of the side of the trany take a flash light and look for fluid leaking inside. Between the trany and motor should be damp also. Mine was doing it for a long time i just kept topping it up until one day it just wouldn't hold any fluid. The fluid (brake fluid) contaminates the clutch material and my clutch had a very bad shutter after all the fluid leaking on it. I ended up calling ford to make sure the part was redesigned. I ordered a full clutch kit including slave. Not a fun job doing a clutch but works like new now.

 

5/16 wrench is what i always used on the bleed screw. You'll probably be able to just crack it open and let some fluid come out and it'll bleed enough to move. I've never pump bled a slave cylinder even after replacing it and never had any issues.

 

Im gonna start hating this truck!

So, i tried to get the clutch hard line off going into the slave, i even bought the little tool and no luck. The white tab for the "quick connection" would not budge!

I folded and took my truck into the mechanics. I told him the ranger is common for a shitty slave cylinder...he called me back saying i need a new clutch. I think he just tried to bleed the slave..not even looking at the master...i still think i just have air in the master. Have you guys heard of someone needing a clutch at 130,000 KM? thats like what....80,000 miles. I peeled the little boot of the tranny and all i see is a rusty clutch...not soaked with dot3 or anything..im not loosing any fluid.


a few days ago when i started the truck and first noticed this, there was a grinding noise...are these indications of needing a clutch?

Im generally easy on the truck...only towed with it a few times...i really doubt i need a new clutch at 130,000KM. Can anyone chime in and tell me what i should be looking for?

any help would be appreciated!

 

Bite the bullet and get a clutch job.
Clutch,pressure plate,pilot bearing,slave cylinder with throwout bearing.
Have the flywheel resurfaced.

 

You gonna pay for it?

I'm just asking if it sounds right that I need a clutch so early.

 

I believe there is a little fork style tool to get that unhooked.

 

Depends on how you drive it? You probably don't NEED a clutch, but if its gonna be open to replace the slave cylinder, why the hell not replace it? I know I don't like doing a job twice. I've seen clutches last from 50,000 and i've seen them go 0ver 300,000 miles.

 

Well I really doubt it's the slave or the clutch. I really think its just air in the master cylinder. I have the little fork coupler tool. Still can't get it off. If I could just get the damn white retainer clip depressed and that line out I'd bench bleed the MC and take that doubt out of my head. I just don't want to go ahead and do a clutch job if it's not necessary.

Anyone have any tips for gettin the white retainer clip on the coupler depressed? Could I release pressure or anything???

 

I have a 2001 3.0 ranger and after 3 winters up in Fairbanks and 90,000 miles I had the same issues. Slave cylinder was the fix. replace the clutch, resurface the flywheel, all that stuff. You may want to look into the rear main on the engine too if you are dropping any oil. With all those parts replaced you should be good for another 70k-100k miles.

 

On the fire wall infront of the steering wheel there is a small reservoir that holds dot3 brake fluid, for your clutch. Fill it up and that should fix your pedal problem. When it happens again add more dot3. This will hold you off for months until you can get it fixed. Mine did the same thing.

 

Just because you don't see any fluid loss doesnt mean the slave is not leaking. I think I've had to explain this 1000x now in different threads.

 

Make any headway yet? Were you trying to separate the clutch line from the slave because a regular bleed woukldnt take or did I miss something?

 

^exactly

I've tried everything to get this damn line out..it will not budge! I have no pedal...not even a bit of resistance..nothing!

i tried reverse bleeding the system tonight, just disconnected the reservoir and sucked back the dot 3 with a pump..still nothing. Im not sure if that would have bled the hardline or the MC...either way...as mentioned, i just wanna bench bleed the damn MC so i can rule out that as a problem...and then if i need to replace the slave then i'll just do the clutch as well..i cant believe this stupid brass fitting! piece of ****.

 

Gotcha, Ive never needed anything more than a small flathead screwdriver to sepaprate that line. All I can suggest is to use an air nozzle to blow any debris out around that plastic ring. When you finally get that line out, theres a slick video on youtube that explains how to properly bleed a ranger master cylinder. I'd also suggest you upgrade to synthetic DOT 3.

 

Here's the youtube video:
These guys at Perfection are great! Very helpful. Don't be afraid to give them a call.

For disconnecting the line from the slave, you have to work your way around the whole thing the best you can. I made the tool myself and it worked like a charm. Popped right off. I have a 2008 also with only 50,000 miles! Kinda surprised I'm having clutch trouble already.
I've bled the master, and it worked for about a week, then noticed fluid on the pushrod so replaced the master thinking it was leaking. Still having trouble. So it must be the slave. Waiting to hear back from the garage on an estimate. Might try to do it myself though.

 

If your two wheel drive and have a free weekend, its a nice project for the average diy-er. 4wd... might be a little bit more tricky, but still do able. Ive had to drop mine so often for various reasons over the years that I can take the tranny and clutch out and back in right about 3 hours.

 

Got a tutorial?? I think I might have to drop the tranny.

Still can't get the damn thing off