Hello friendos,

I've got a 2009 Ranger 2.3L 2wd and I picked up a 2010 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 to swap the 8.8 into my 09.
There is a good amount of these done from what I gather and my question is related to the brake lines. My 09 has 3 channel ABS and drum brakes, its only got the one brake line going to the splitter. The 2010 has all the fancies and has two rear brake lines going to disc. Am i going to need anything to splice all the lines to make them fit together?
I haven't found much information on if I'm going to need anything to make the brake lines work for the 2009 Ranger once the axle is swapped over, this might be a dead question and could bolt right up but I wont be able to do the swap for like two weeks so I just want to be as prepared as possible.
Any info helps.

 

Update for those that care. The axle swap was a success, the brake lines needed a little marmalade and a twisty bend and they worked out.
However due the 8.8 diff being equipped with disc brakes and 4 channel ABS, the truck now sets a C1229 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Coherency Fault, likely due to the tone ring in the diff from the 7.5 being a different frequency then the wheel bearing tone rings on the 8.8 abs sensors. if anyone has run into this and had a solution I



would appreciate any info.

 

You only hooked up one rear wheel sensor correct?
Can't hookup both

I didn't think the ABS units had a pulse count Range, but maybe they do
As far as I know ABS just looks for sudden drop in pulse count indicating possible lockup on that wheel, in the front it may compare the two wheels pulse count but on the rear there would be no reason to compare it to anything

On the true 4 wheel ABS, which was added for Traction Control System, there would be comparison between two rear wheel pulse count

 

Hey thanks for the reply.
Correct. I cut my rear sensor that sits on the ring gear and spliced it to the left rear wheel speed sensor pigtail of the 2010, verified i had the correct signal and signal return wires corresponding with each other. I didn't have enough time to watch the live data of the rear to see if its spinning faster or slower then the front signals. I feel like it should be fine, the ring gear and the wheel would spin at the same rate. unless the tone ring at the end of the axle has more/less teeth then the tone ring on the ring gear you are correct it shouldn't matter. Here is the only useful information my workshop manual has to say about that code. Normal Operation

When the ignition is turned to the RUN position, the ABS module carries out a self-test by sending a reference voltage through the wheel speed sensors and their circuitry to determine if the sensors are functional. As the teeth on the wheel speed sensor ring move past the wheel speed sensor, a signal proportional to the speed of the sensor ring is generated and sent to the ABS module. While the vehicle is in motion and traveling at speeds greater than 5 km/h (3 mph), the ABS module continually monitors and compares the wheel speed sensor signals to each other and to other module inputs.

If the ABS module detects an erratic reading from the wheel speed sensor, the appropriate DTC will be set. These DTCs can be set by damaged tone rings, mismatched wheel and/or tire sizes, driving the vehicle on one or more deflated tires or an excessive sensor-to-tone ring gap.

If i scroll through the diagnostic the first steps are to verify that the rear tires are the same size as the front tires. The second step is to compare the wheel speed sensor signals.
Has anyone changed the tone rings on the end of the axle? I cant be the only one who has swapped a newer 4 channel ABS diff into and older one.

 

The ring gear tone wheel would have had many more pulses per mile than a wheel sensor

I just find it odd that the 3 sensor setup would compare front wheels to rear

And yes, I have read of this swap but not about getting a code is long as only one rear wheel sensor was used, but maybe they just left that part out, lol

You can get units like the Dakota digital SGI-100BT: https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....od/prd1192.htm
These can change the pulse count, mostly used for speedometer interfaces, but would work for this

Could the ABS sensor you are using be erratic in some way?
Is it possible to try the other sides sensor?

 

Thanks for that link,
I'm currently spliced into the left rear sensor, it didn't code on the 2010 at all but I can definitely try the RH sensor and see if there is any changes.