Help me decide what LS/Locker to get for my 31-spline explorer axel.

I am not 100% sold on weather I really need a full locker or not. Money is a consideration also. I don't really want to drop $700+ on a detroit locker or an ARB or something like that. I am pretty sure the axel has an open diff in it now which is just not going to cut it so thats coming out and it is getting re-geared also.

What are my real choices ?

I am assuming the ECTED is big money and out of my price range but who makes it and what a good price for one ?

 

auburn ectecd, or eaton e locker

DO it

 

Get a locker now so you won't regret it later......now that that's been said, see if you can change out my 28 spline spider gears in my Elocker for 31 spline and buy it! If you contact Eaton they should be able to tell you. the carriers should be the same, but I'm not sur if you could switch them out.

 

auburn ectecd, or eaton e locker

DO it

bth are good electrics and the eaton is a lil more hardcore

 

Concidering I am not sure what you mean can you look into it ?

 

What makes the eaton better ? i thought the ECTED was better because it was a LS to locker and the elocker was open to locker

 

I'm looking into the AussieLocker. It's simple and it's cheap (relativly). It doesn't have all the features of say an Eaton, but yea..

www.aussielocker.com

 

Yeah thats not bad $230. Looks about the same as an ez-locker

 

detroit is un-beatable and reliable. only 500 for an 8.8. I'd never run a different locker on any of my axles.

 

ben what is your axle code from your doorjam?? that will tell what you have in there

 

Lincoln locker! (weld the diff!) or run a spool

 

Whiskey tango foxtrot?

He is looking for a locker to put into the xploder axle he is going to swap in...

 

yeah and he wants my stock axel

 

i know its a ford T-lok LS and 4.10 gears and a 8.8 28 spline, but i can get the door jam code for you in the morning

 

where is a good place to get an ected ?

 

Like most automatic lockers, the Detroit has certain disadvantages for a daily driver.

I got my Ected from a guy on eBay who also has a store. He gave me a great price on it, the rebuild kit for my 8.8, etc.

You asked about gears back in January and I gave you this information then, here it is again:

Jeremy Ayers, J.T. Parts and Accessories (Specializing in Differential Parts and Service)
Phone: 425-879-6192
email: jtsdifferentialsaxles@comcast.net
Website: http://www.ringpinion.biz

 

[bangs head on table]

oh yeah I still have his email. I should aks me. i wonder if he would give me a deal on the ected if i get the R&P's from he also.

 

That's what I found. Plus, you save a bit on shipping -- though it's one honking heavy box, lol.

 

John are you going to help me with the install ? Maybe in a month ?

 

WOW ! $1100 for the ECTED, R&P front and rear, and install kits

 

I haven't priced stuff lately -- is that good? Sounds like it to me.

 

if you wanna do it cheap weld them gears together

 

Sounds good...i think
Figure gears usually run $150-$200 x2 (~$400)
Master kits i think ~$100 x2 ($200)
if that's two ECTEDs that'd be sweet! but figuring it's one, that leaves ~$500 for the ECTED.
$1100. Guess that's about right.

Maybe look at getting an open/locked elec locker for the front too :) Then you'd have selectable lockers F&R with an open front and limited slip rear when deactivated. Now'd be the time to do it.

 

That would be an awesome setup.

Yes, Ben, I can help you. We might even get lucky on the shimming of the pinions and not have to press the bearings off again. Actually, theres a trick to doing the setup taking the old bearing off and sanding the inner radius to make it fit loose enough to put on and off by hand, and using the old one for finding pinion depth. A micrometer verifies the differenece between the old and new bearing depths, in case of differences.

Do you have adequate air? Impact guns make it easier and I can borrow some big ones to make doing the crush sleeve easier.

Also, what is your current gear ratio? Need to check the "carrier break" on the front dana 35 to see if we need a different carrier for 4.56 gears.

A bench grinder comes in handy also, if you have one. We may need to grind a bit behind the splines of one of the 31 spline axles to get it in the Ected far enough to get the c-clip on. Also, the center pin needs a flat ground on 1/2 it's length to let it pull out far enough once the 4.56 gear is on there to get the c-clips on (rear axle only).

 

Hmm...c-clip this c-clip that...
sounds like it's time to experiment with a c-clip eliminator kit

I haven't seen the install directions to know how they actually work; if it eliminates the c-clip or just adds something to keep the wheel from falling off when an axle breaks. should be avail thru summitracing.com. Moser (MSR) & Strange (STR) both make them.

Summit part #s

MSR-9300 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.400 in. Diameter Seat, Stock Axles, Ford, 7.5/ 8.8 in., 10-Bolt, Kit

MSR-9333 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.533 in. Diameter Seat, Ford/ Mercury, 7.5/ 8.8 in., 10-Bolt, Kit

STR-A1092 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, Stock Axles, Drum Brake, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit

STR-A1090 C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, Strange Axles, Drum Brake, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit

Don't know about the seat diameter. And the second Strange part listed requires you run Strange axles...which would probably be stronger than stock also

EDIT: Oh, and for those too lazy to go look, these run ~$150.