31-spline diff choices
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,623
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From: Kennett Square, PA
You would need the bigger one for the 31 spline -- it has bigger axle bearings.
However, those two drum brake types don't show which is for the 31 spline axle.
Nice to know they're out there. I won't do that though until I convert to discs in the rear.
However, those two drum brake types don't show which is for the 31 spline axle.
Nice to know they're out there. I won't do that though until I convert to discs in the rear.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 580
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From: San Antonio, TX
Nope...there's two ways (well, maybe more) to get a 31 spline 8.8.
1. Explorer rear (forget the years prob 96-00 or around there). Will get you disc brakes, but is also spring under so you need to weld perches on top of the axle. And the shock mounts I think are mounted differently. Maybe a few other changes.
2. And the easier of the two (but does have a catch) would be to find a Ranger Fx4 which has a 31 spline 8.8 but has drums. Good news is it's more of a direct swap. I think the brakes are a little different though so things like the e-brake would be nice to grab with it. Also longer u-bolts (tube is larger) and i think there might be something else with the springs attaching to the axle tube. But the catch is there was a recall on these axles. That info is floating on here somewhere. I think build date after 5/02 or something like that is ok. Just double check the post on that.
1. Explorer rear (forget the years prob 96-00 or around there). Will get you disc brakes, but is also spring under so you need to weld perches on top of the axle. And the shock mounts I think are mounted differently. Maybe a few other changes.
2. And the easier of the two (but does have a catch) would be to find a Ranger Fx4 which has a 31 spline 8.8 but has drums. Good news is it's more of a direct swap. I think the brakes are a little different though so things like the e-brake would be nice to grab with it. Also longer u-bolts (tube is larger) and i think there might be something else with the springs attaching to the axle tube. But the catch is there was a recall on these axles. That info is floating on here somewhere. I think build date after 5/02 or something like that is ok. Just double check the post on that.
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,623
Likes: 6
From: Kennett Square, PA
If you want the same width and bolt pattern, those are the only two ways, I do believe.
Most everything bolts up on the FX4. It has 10" rear drum brakes, which many Rangers also do -- but the backing plate everything bolts to is different. e-brake is fine.
But I did a full rebuild on my FX4 -- all bearings, seals, and put the Ected and 4.56 ring an pinion in, new brake parts also. Still want those explorer discs though. Looking for the right donor to come along.
I just got done taking apart all the suspension stuff from my to-be front axle, a 1979 F-150 Dana 44. I'm going to use the suspension in it's entirety, and I found a neat thing that makes it a bit easier which I'll post about at some point with pics.
Gotta' run for now though.
Most everything bolts up on the FX4. It has 10" rear drum brakes, which many Rangers also do -- but the backing plate everything bolts to is different. e-brake is fine.
But I did a full rebuild on my FX4 -- all bearings, seals, and put the Ected and 4.56 ring an pinion in, new brake parts also. Still want those explorer discs though. Looking for the right donor to come along.
I just got done taking apart all the suspension stuff from my to-be front axle, a 1979 F-150 Dana 44. I'm going to use the suspension in it's entirety, and I found a neat thing that makes it a bit easier which I'll post about at some point with pics.
Gotta' run for now though.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,256
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From: Fairbanks, AK
I was just looking at www.purplecranium.com and they have some uber cool full diff covers (8.8" is $125) and you can get them powdercoated in just about any color you want for about 25 bucks extra.
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From:
Originally Posted by n3elz
That would be an awesome setup.
Yes, Ben, I can help you. We might even get lucky on the shimming of the pinions and not have to press the bearings off again. Actually, theres a trick to doing the setup taking the old bearing off and sanding the inner radius to make it fit loose enough to put on and off by hand, and using the old one for finding pinion depth. A micrometer verifies the differenece between the old and new bearing depths, in case of differences.
Do you have adequate air? Impact guns make it easier and I can borrow some big ones to make doing the crush sleeve easier.
Also, what is your current gear ratio? Need to check the "carrier break" on the front dana 35 to see if we need a different carrier for 4.56 gears.
A bench grinder comes in handy also, if you have one. We may need to grind a bit behind the splines of one of the 31 spline axles to get it in the Ected far enough to get the c-clip on. Also, the center pin needs a flat ground on 1/2 it's length to let it pull out far enough once the 4.56 gear is on there to get the c-clips on (rear axle only).
Yes, Ben, I can help you. We might even get lucky on the shimming of the pinions and not have to press the bearings off again. Actually, theres a trick to doing the setup taking the old bearing off and sanding the inner radius to make it fit loose enough to put on and off by hand, and using the old one for finding pinion depth. A micrometer verifies the differenece between the old and new bearing depths, in case of differences.
Do you have adequate air? Impact guns make it easier and I can borrow some big ones to make doing the crush sleeve easier.
Also, what is your current gear ratio? Need to check the "carrier break" on the front dana 35 to see if we need a different carrier for 4.56 gears.
A bench grinder comes in handy also, if you have one. We may need to grind a bit behind the splines of one of the 31 spline axles to get it in the Ected far enough to get the c-clip on. Also, the center pin needs a flat ground on 1/2 it's length to let it pull out far enough once the 4.56 gear is on there to get the c-clips on (rear axle only).
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,623
Likes: 6
From: Kennett Square, PA
Check to see any "gotcha's" in 4.88. That is a HONKING thick ring gear, brother, just so you know. I'm thinking that one is going to be tough, especially in the c-clip rear.
I'll help you, but I'm not looking forward to it, lol!
How long can you have the truck down -- this stuff doesn't go quickly.
I'll help you, but I'm not looking forward to it, lol!
How long can you have the truck down -- this stuff doesn't go quickly.
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From:
Originally Posted by sawred
Sounds good...i think
Figure gears usually run $150-$200 x2 (~$400)
Master kits i think ~$100 x2 ($200)
if that's two ECTEDs that'd be sweet! but figuring it's one, that leaves ~$500 for the ECTED.
$1100. Guess that's about right.
Maybe look at getting an open/locked elec locker for the front too :) Then you'd have selectable lockers F&R with an open front and limited slip rear when deactivated. Now'd be the time to do it.
Figure gears usually run $150-$200 x2 (~$400)
Master kits i think ~$100 x2 ($200)
if that's two ECTEDs that'd be sweet! but figuring it's one, that leaves ~$500 for the ECTED.
$1100. Guess that's about right.
Maybe look at getting an open/locked elec locker for the front too :) Then you'd have selectable lockers F&R with an open front and limited slip rear when deactivated. Now'd be the time to do it.
They make a D35 ected now. I think it just came out. I think $1100 is enough on stuff maybe later I can get a front ected if i feel the need.
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From:
Originally Posted by sawred
Nope...there's two ways (well, maybe more) to get a 31 spline 8.8.
1. Explorer rear (forget the years prob 96-00 or around there). Will get you disc brakes, but is also spring under so you need to weld perches on top of the axle. And the shock mounts I think are mounted differently. Maybe a few other changes.
2. And the easier of the two (but does have a catch) would be to find a Ranger Fx4 which has a 31 spline 8.8 but has drums. Good news is it's more of a direct swap. I think the brakes are a little different though so things like the e-brake would be nice to grab with it. Also longer u-bolts (tube is larger) and i think there might be something else with the springs attaching to the axle tube. But the catch is there was a recall on these axles. That info is floating on here somewhere. I think build date after 5/02 or something like that is ok. Just double check the post on that.
1. Explorer rear (forget the years prob 96-00 or around there). Will get you disc brakes, but is also spring under so you need to weld perches on top of the axle. And the shock mounts I think are mounted differently. Maybe a few other changes.
2. And the easier of the two (but does have a catch) would be to find a Ranger Fx4 which has a 31 spline 8.8 but has drums. Good news is it's more of a direct swap. I think the brakes are a little different though so things like the e-brake would be nice to grab with it. Also longer u-bolts (tube is larger) and i think there might be something else with the springs attaching to the axle tube. But the catch is there was a recall on these axles. That info is floating on here somewhere. I think build date after 5/02 or something like that is ok. Just double check the post on that.
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From:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Up to 94 they are drums.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Long Beach CA
Originally Posted by Ranger1
Drums don't hurt my feelings any the front tires do most of the stopping. So basically a 92ish explorer axel is the same as a FX4L2. Both 31-spline both drums. Right ?
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From:
Originally Posted by rngprerunner
Yes, but why go drum when you can have disks? The 92' exploder axle is still wider, the perch's are still spring under and need to be relocated, it will still need new shock mounts, it will take the same amount of work to fit a drum axle in as it will to fit a disk axle. Just something to think about.
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From:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Hey, it's better than no axle change, and the explorer discs will bolt right up if you get some later. You will just need to redo the brake lines is all. If you can have it cheap, go for it.
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From:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Check to see any "gotcha's" in 4.88. That is a HONKING thick ring gear, brother, just so you know. I'm thinking that one is going to be tough, especially in the c-clip rear.
I'll help you, but I'm not looking forward to it, lol!
How long can you have the truck down -- this stuff doesn't go quickly.
I'll help you, but I'm not looking forward to it, lol!
How long can you have the truck down -- this stuff doesn't go quickly.
John do you want to do the gears at my place or yours ?
Do you think the C-clip elimanator is needed or at least a good idea ?
C clip eliminators do not make the axle any stronger, just retain the shaft/wheel should you break a shaft.
I talked to Eaton, they see no reason why the diff spider gears would not work, though I am waiting on confirmation from one of thier engineers. Problem is that you msut buy the new spider gears, and I'm not sure how much that would cost.
I talked to Eaton, they see no reason why the diff spider gears would not work, though I am waiting on confirmation from one of thier engineers. Problem is that you msut buy the new spider gears, and I'm not sure how much that would cost.
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From:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Definitely at yours.
The c-clip eliminator is a good idea for a lot of reasons, if you want to go to the trouble.
However, at this time I'm not running one.
The c-clip eliminator is a good idea for a lot of reasons, if you want to go to the trouble.
However, at this time I'm not running one.
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From:
Originally Posted by buckgnarly
C clip eliminators do not make the axle any stronger, just retain the shaft/wheel should you break a shaft.
I talked to Eaton, they see no reason why the diff spider gears would not work, though I am waiting on confirmation from one of thier engineers. Problem is that you msut buy the new spider gears, and I'm not sure how much that would cost.
I talked to Eaton, they see no reason why the diff spider gears would not work, though I am waiting on confirmation from one of thier engineers. Problem is that you msut buy the new spider gears, and I'm not sure how much that would cost.
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