Trying to fix the 4x4 and getting all the parts from a new motor and control module to find out whats bad. There seems to be many different part numbers for the motorcraft TM101 control module. Is there really and difference in these between these if they look exactly the same?

 

2001-2005 Rangers or Mazda B-series used the same 4x4CM, 2006 and up were different

2000 and lower were also different

I think 2001/2 explorer sport also worked if looking for used

Just check the compatible years and you will be fine

Only 1 part number, 1L5Z-7E453
At the end of above number is "-" AB, AC, AD....ect, these are software revisions which won't effect operation, if buying new or "refurbished" it should be as least AD, but a used AB will work fine

Ford part numbers work like this:
1L5Z-7E453-AD
1 = 2001 and would be the first year this part was changed or used
L5 = Ranger or Mazda B-series
Z = electrical

7E453 = actual part number for a 4x4 controller but for ANY MODEL, not Ranger specific

AD = software revision

 

Ok great just what I was looking for. Its actually for a 04 that I bought for a parts truck but I'm trying to fix it up to sell so I don't want to throw money at with new OEM parts.

 

Replaced the 4x4 module with the one from my other truck, tested the switch for the varying voltages for the 3 positions which is functioning, and replaced the case motor. And yet it still will not shift. All of the fuses are ok. Is there another component to the 4x4 system I am missing?

 

No, it only has the 3 components and the wiring of course

Do the 4x4 lights on the dash come on with the key, thats just a bulb test, but helpful to know they work
When you select 4high on the switch is there any noise, like a Click from behind the radio(4x4CM)?
Or do 4x4 lights flash at all
No click means the 4x4cm didn't get the signal to change or its bad, the relays to operate the shift motor are inside the 4x4cm

Have you tried it with shift motor OFF the transfer case, to see if motor works

You can hook up the two shift motor wires to 12v/ground to see if it moves and then ground/12v(reverse wires) to see if it moves the other way

Motor wires are pretty obvious only two that go to the motor, other 5 or 6 goes to the contact wheel

 

The 4x4 lights on the dash come on with the key turned then go out. I tested the 4x4 module in my other truck and it works just fine. Probed the switch without the module plugged in and it read 0V, plugged it back in and got the respective voltages for the positions so power is going to the module. Im looking at the plug for the shift motor and it appears some of the pins are in the wrong position compared to the old shift motor, I'll have to order another and make sure its the correct one. If the original motor was bad shouldn't it have made the 4x4 lights flash on the dash?

 

Re-orientated the wires on the plug so they match with the old motor, still nothing. Unplugged it and check for power at the plug underneath the truck and am getting 12v on a few of the sensor wires.

 

Shouldn't be any change in wiring from 2001 to 2005, at shift motor??

I don't think contact wires used 12volts, so you may have repinned it incorrectly

Read here as well: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...wiring-147969/

Here are 2 diagrams
Fuse numbers changed, but wire colors and purpose stayed the same

Is the shift motor plug round or square?

 

I looked at my order and it was for the wrong year. I re-pinned it exactly as the stock motor was setup, I wouldn't think these position circuits wouldn't be any different when all of these motors look exactly the same.

I unplugged the motor to check to see if I was getting power so I probed the truck side power of the plug. I was getting battery voltages on all but one of the pins excluding the two wires for the actual motor. I don't think its the wire harness that is the problem.

The problem has to be somewhere in between the module and the motor, but I can rule out the motor once the new one arrives.

 

Only 1 wire on the truck side should have voltage with key on, pin 6, from pin 4 on 4x4cm
Probably 5volts
The yellow/white stripe wire

Then that voltage is sent back to 4x4cm on 1 of the other 4 wires when contact wheel turns to one of its 4 positions, 2wd, 4h, neutral, and 4l
Thats how the 4x4cm "knows" when to stop the shift motor, when the correct contact is closed for the selected "gear"

Pictures here of the contact wheel and contacts: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-motor.123542/

 

Did a little more testing today. I probed the pins on the plug and at the module. Im getting battery voltage on all of the sense pins except for pin 6 / motor 1. I think I can rule out the motor as being the culprit here and my problem lies somewhere in the wire harness. There were mice in this truck and maybe they had a nice time chewing on some wires otherwise I have no idea where the issue is.

Edit: Also checked in my working truck, all sense pins have battery voltage, only when the motor is turning do they show 0v. Tested in 2 and 4hi. Every pin on the problem truck has voltage except for motor 1.

 

That doesn't make sense to me
At the shift motor pin 6 should have voltage but not pins 1, 2, 3 and 5, these 5 wires are the contact wires
(pins 4 and 7 are for moving the shift motor, so not part of this, these should BOTH be Grounds with key on, just FYI)

The 4x4cm needs a way to tell the position of the shift rod, so it "knows" what "gear" its in when key is turn on, and which way to move the shift rod when a new "gear" is selected, and when to stop moving the shift rod when that "gear" position has been reached
Its a simple on/off, contact open or closed system

It could be a pull down system, so when say 3 and 6 are connected 3's voltage is "pulled down" so 4x4CM "knows" shift rod's position is at 3
In that case then yes 6 should be different that 1, 2, 3, and 5

 

Moved the position of the new motor to be in the same spot of the old motor and had a small victory. The motor did move but in the wrong direction, had the motor wires reversed. Flipped the wires around and tried to power the motor to realign again and the motor wouldnt move. Took off the case and spun it by hand and plugged it back into the truck. Now the modules relay clicks but the motor wont spin.

 

Pull shift motor off and open the hood
Use 2 jumper wires from battery to power/ground the motors two wires, 12v/ground then ground/12v it should move in both directions

There is an internal STOP that prevents the motor from turning the shift rod 360deg, as seen in the link above showing the disassembled motor
It only turns 270deg

 

So I got the the correct part number today and followed the instruction on it which said not to apply power until it was mounted. Did that and the module just clicks like before on and off. Shows 4x4 when the key was first turned and switching to 4x4 it went off and never came back on. I was able to move the transfer case manually so I know thats not locked up.

 

Got another replacement. Jumped the power wires to moves the key hole into the correct position. Bolted it onto the transfer case and it worked...only 5 times before it gave me issues again. The key hole on the motor was in the spot where it was when I got it out of the box, its trying to move past the 2wd direction until it binds up.

 

OK, so the contact plate is out of adjustment

In this picture: https://imgaz2.staticbg.com/thumb/la...5ce73cf6fb.jpg

You can see the 3 screws that can be loosened so you can adjust the contacts so they are in the correct position for 2WD, 4H and 4L for YOUR transfer case

If its rotating to far clockwise then turn contact plate counter clock wise a bit

 

I tried to apply power to the motor again to get it re-positioned but its not turning anymore. Could it be burnt up or just jammed?

 

Jammed, it should have a thermo-coupler like a power window motor has, when motor hits a stop its amp load goes up and heats up the thermo-coupler which cuts power, it instantly cools off and reconnects, so no waiting time

But if mechanism is jammed then motor heats up when power is applied in either direction

 

I've let it cool down and applied power for both directions, wont budge. Im nervous about taking it apart since getting the brushes and spindle to stay in place when it gets put back together is tricky due to the magnets.

 

Leave the motor on, just open the contact wheel area, everything comes out, motor stays, its just a worm drive setup, like an odometer worm drive

Take pictures as you pull things apart so you can get the alignment close on reassembly
With everything out you will see the motor's worm drive and it should turn now when powered up in either direction, test it both ways

If it doesn't turn then motor is bad

 

I took the motor off anyways, removed the encoder wheel and the gear, it was hard to get out so it was definitely jammed. Put it all back together after testing the motor, threw it on the truck and its working now. I don't know what I did but hopefully it remains working until this thing is sold and its not my problem anymore.

 

Good work