OK here is the lowdown. I have had this little 1992 Ranger with an I-4 engine for about 10 days. Well on the way to work I heard and felt a growl, pulled over, and the engine locked down (crap engine just toasted). Well thank goodness it was not that. After pulling the tranny off hoping the clutch had gone it turns out the front input shaft bearing had gone. I pulled the top shift cover off and saw the bearing in shambles. I have removed the bearing except the inner and outer race so there seems to be no input shaft or bearing house damage.

I just need to know if anyone else has had this problem, any problems they ran into changing this out (yes I am mechanically inclined), and where would be the best place to purchase this (at a resonable cost) and the oil guides and troughs for this. I did see a good parts breakdown of this on Therangerstation.com.

I did see the problem that took out the bearing. The oil guide that troughs the oil to the bearing had melted some time in the past so either the bearing got hot and melted this plasitc guilde or the guild melted and allowed the bearing to crap out due to no oil.


Thanks,


Phil

 

With this transmission (looks to be the M5OD-R1) I continue to see info asking about "5th-rev mod"?

Phil

 

i think your talking about the pilot bearing.

if you are, i would just call ford and order a new one, im sure any autoparts store could order the part also.

 

The pilot bearing would be the one in the bell housing but not in the transmission. The one I am talking about actually supports the input shaft and is the front most bearing when you open the trans. housing up from top. The pilot I have changed in the past when I did clutch changes on other vehicles.

Thanks,

Phil

 

OK. I ahve my transmission back in and the truck back on the road. I ordered parts from a Ford dealer that was about 20% cheaper than my local dealer even with me paying shipping.

I changed out both the upper power bearing that supports the upper power shaft (the one that goes into the clutch from the transmission) and the lower bear(C/S bearing that supports the front fot eh shaft that transmits the power from the gear mesh tot he drive shaft output). I also changed out small support itmes like seals and such. I did notice wear onthe primary upper gears in the transmission though, but not enough to warrant changint the entire gear cluster out. Maybe a 15% loss of surface. The gears mesh well now to the point that they wine a little in 1 and 2. I expect this as the bearing change made the gears mesh as tight as they did when new.

One trick I should have used for those who may bneed to do this.

The lower bearing inner race had seized onto the bottom shaft and when I disassembled the bearing (it was destroyed so I ahd to cut into the outer race to remove rollers so I could get the puller inside). Once that was done I removed the rollers and then the outer race. My point is to not remove all the rollers and the outer race. Pull just enough of the rollers to get the puller inand the pull the outer race and use the rollers to remove the inner race at the same time. Since I did not think the inner race would be a problem I did nto do this and spent about 100 man hours using a drimel, chisels, and torch to remove the inner race that had seized.

PLoftin

 

OK. I have my transmission back in and the truck back on the road. I ordered parts from a Ford dealer that was about 20% cheaper than my local dealer even with me paying shipping.

I changed out both the upper power bearing that supports the upper power shaft (the one that goes into the clutch from the transmission) and the lower bear(C/S bearing that supports the front of the shaft that transmits the power from the gear mesh to the drive shaft output). I also changed out small support itmes like seals and such. I did notice wear on the primary upper gears in the transmission though, but not enough to warrant changing the entire gear cluster out. Maybe a 0.005" loss of surface. The gears mesh well now to the point that they wine a little in 1 and 2. I expect this as the bearing change made the gears mesh as tight as they did when new.

One trick I should have used for those who may need to do this.

The lower bearing inner race had seized onto the bottom shaft and when I disassembled the bearing (it was destroyed so I had to cut into the outer race to remove rollers so I could get the puller inside). Once that was done I removed the rollers and then the outer race. My point is to not remove all the rollers and the outer race. Pull just enough of the rollers to get the puller in and then pull the outer race and use the rollers to remove the inner race at the same time. Since I did not think the inner race would be a problem I did not do this and spent about 100 man hours using a drimel, chisels, and torch to remove the inner race that had seized.

PLoftin

 

Sounds like you had fun, What exactly is the 5th - reverse mod? I can't think of anything, since they're not near each other, at least not anything I've done.