I purchased my 2002 Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4 about a month ago. When I first got it, things were hairy. Very slow going from P into 1, 2 or D. No problems going into R. Some slipping between 2-3 and leaks! Since then, I've done quite a bit. First was the leak, which from first looks was just the gasket between the tranny and the extension housing. Once I got to it, I found somebody had busted an ear off the housing, so I replaced that housing with a refurbished one. The next thing I did was replace the valve body gaskets, filter and fluid. I still had some slipping and lost my speedo, so I checked the OSS sensor and found it was barely plugged in. Got it fully plugged and the slipping vanished. She shifts perfectly smooth 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, OD and everything. The one remaining issue is going from P into 1, 2 or D. I have to use the accelerator and it will finally slam in, but I don't like that. No issues going from P to R, slides right in fine. So I guess I'm narrowing it down to either the Shift Interlock Solenoid, or the EPC solenoid. But I'm still unsure and was wondering if anyone had some input as to what they think. No flashing OD light either. Any help is much appreciated!

 

Well I purchased all new solenoids last night. EPC, TCC and all 4 shift solenoids. Plus the replacement bracket, just for good measure. Going to swap the new ones in this weekend. All my research is telling me this is a possible cause for my issues. I'd really like to know more definitively, but it's all I've got to go on for now. If anyone has suggestions on other things to check while I'm in there, I'm all ears. No burnt smelling fluid or particles in the pan last time I dropped either so I believe everything else is in good condition. I also called up a tranny shop, and of course over the phone he immediately jumps to bad clutch plates and a full rebuild for $2000. I really don't see the possibility of my symptoms being caused by this, since my shifts between gears are flawless. But then again, I just started learning about transmissions over the last few weeks. It just didn't sit well with me that he jumped right to a rebuild without wanting to explore other possibilities. I'll be sure to post my results either way. Fingers crossed!

 

Well, I swapped all the solenoids and still have the same issue. Does anyone possibly have any explanation as to what is going on here? I would hate to have to throw in the towel on this tranny. There has to be some explanation. Once it's in D, the shifting is flawless. So my assumption is there is some information not being relayed properly to get it from P into D, 1 or 2. Still shifts into R with no problem whatsoever. I checked my shifter cable linkage, and the gears are being selected properly so I am stumped. Could a bad shift interlock solenoid cause me to lose some gears, but not all? I don't know enough about the function of a solenoid to make a proper guess. I called a mechanic I trust to price me out a salvaged tranny for a full swap. But I'd still like to know what's going on here. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

 

 

I ended up doing a full tranny swap. Couldn't waste any more time or money. Was able to get the swap for $1900 total, and it came with a 2yr/24k warranty so I can't complain. Runs perfect now.

 

I’m about to do the same but I just can’t stand spending $2000 on a $5000 truck

 

that sucks man. I got mine for a steal at $1400 so I wasn't too upset about it. But at least you'll know it's good for awhile .

 

I get the not wanting to spend the money, but you can't look at it as putting $1,000 into a $500 truck or insert any amounts you want, thats not what you are doing.

If trans cost $2,400 and you drive it for 24 months then it was $100 a month to use that vehicle, if you couldn't use it without the repair.
Less than most "car payments" and if trans lasts 48 months then $50 a month

So look at it in those terms if you are using it as a daily driver

If you are buying a vehicle to flip to make some money THEN you goofed, lol, and should pay just so you remember to check trans better the next time.
"we learn from failure, not success", very few learn much from doing it right, but doing it wrong stays with you a long time
Some think I know a lot, well I don't know if that is true or not but I do know I have made lots of goofs, lol.

 

For all automatics you want trans fluid to be at the FULL line.

Heat is what kills all automatics, which is why you should always install a 2nd trans cooler, best $60 you will ever spend on a vehicle.

So Full fluid level means more fluid to carry away and dissipate heat