I haven't been able to find someone with a similar problem and I don't know what could be wrong at this point.

I rebuilt a 5R55E and after re-installing it shifting into reverse does nothing (engine revs but wheels don't move), but sometimes shifting into D,1, or 2 will cause the rear wheels to spin in reverse. Other times it just does nothing, as if I am in neutral. I checked the transmission range sensor but that was not it. I took it back out to check the oil pump but everything looked fine there too. Any one had this problem before?

 

Welcome to the forum

The reverse spin if wheels are off the ground is just the rear end being an OPEN differential

Reads like you have no internal pressure
All automatics run on pressure, it is what engages the clutches and brakes to select the ratios.
Pressure is made by torque converter spinning the Front Pump in the transmission, the outside of torque converter is bolted to the engine, so spins at engine RPMs and the front pump is also connected to the outside of torque converter's shaft, so also spins/pumps at engine RPMs, when you raise RPMs you raise pump speed and internal pressure, if pump is working, so if raising RPMs cause movement but no movement at idle RPMs then internal pressure is too low

When installing an automatic trans you must place torque converter on to the transmission's input shaft and then rotate torque converter while push it into bell housing, it will slide in 2 or 3 times and "click" into the front pumps tabs.
Then you must make sure torque converter doesn't slide forward during the install and become disengaged from the pump alignment.
Failure to do this will break the front pump when installing trans.

The computer and solenoids have nothing to do with transmission going into "gear", so range sensor is not important in that respect
The computer control and solenoids are for smoother shifting and better fuel economy.
Although if solenoid valves/seals are leaking then you lose Pressure, and trans can't "go" if Pressure drops to low
Reverse needs the highest pressure, about 175psi
Forward needs 140psi or so

 

Thanks for the help! I'm fairly certain the oil pump and torque converter are engaged, I felt at least 3 clunks when installing the torque converter and took extra care when installing it back in the truck to make sure it didn't slide back out.

The truck is off the ground on jack stands but both rear wheels are spinning in reverse at the same time. I think that means the output shaft of the transmission is rotating the wrong direction. If that's correct could there be a missing band/ clutch being applied?

Sounds like I need to check the internal pressure and then find the leak.

 

Maybe one-way clutch input sprang

 

I know enough about automatic transmissions in general to stay away from them whenever possible.

I know even less about a modern transmission.

I personally have done some work to them fixing leaks, repairing codes from solenoids , adding shift kits in old 3 speed transmissions and that sort of stuff.

However my Dad was a expert when it came to rebuilding transmissions.

I used to work with him at his shops over the years when I was a kid washing parts for him and helping with the grunt work.

One thing I noticed while watching him many times putting a transmission back together, he was able to use dried compressed air to test that each section would engage before installing the valve body.

Was there a way to do this on the transmission you rebuilt?

How confident are you that the transmission was assembled properly and no hard parts were worn beyond specification?

I cannot imagine doing all that work getting it bolted back up not being 100 percent positive that the transmission was in perfect working order.

The possibility of that oh **** moment is what kept me away from getting into rebuilding Automatics.

If I was forced into rebuilding a transmission I would at least want it tested with a transmission Dyno before i installed it.

Does any of your local transmission shops offer that service for your transmission without having them rebuild it for you?

 

This is the first transmission I've ever worked on, idk how to use compressed air to test it but I imagine that it'd be possible on this transmission.

This being the first transmission I've worked on I can't say for sure I put it all back together right but I sure thought I did!

None of the shops I know of around me offer a transmission dyno. Is that something a local shop would have?

 

I have no clue if any of my local shops or anyone with a dyno would use it on a transmission that was rebuilt out of someones home or garage.

Did you replace the torque converter and flush the cooler and lines?

How much total fluid did you get back in the transmission and cooler?

What was the original problem and symptoms before the rebuild?

What transmission kit did you use ?

What if any hard parts were replaced ?

What did you use for a service manual to rebuild this transmission with?

How did you clean the gasket material off the valve body and transmission case?

How did you ensure the transmission hard parts and case etc were perfectly clean before reassembly?

How clean was the environment you were working in?

What precision measuring equipment did you use to verify the condition of the hard parts?

Did you pre lubricate the internal parts with transmission fluid right as you were installing them?


The questions could be endless here.

But lets start with these questions and hopefully we will get lucky along the way.