New to the ranger world, and I’m not finding much help searching forums or google for advice on this. I just purchased a 1999 Ford ranger 4x2 with the 2.5 and automatic transmission. The truck has a weak reverse, and seems to only properly shift when you turn o/d off on the shifter. When just in drive it seems like the entire trans is weak, barely moves. O/d light doesn’t seem to be flashing or anything, CEL bulb doesn’t work/is removed in the truck. I’m waiting to get my hands on a scanner to check for codes but until then, does anyone have any insight? Thanks!

 

I'm not on the welcoming committee, but WELCOME!
How many miles on your '99?
Check your trannie fluid level.
Also, in my experience, wiping the dipstick on a white rag mightn't reveal all that much insight.
Your filter could indeed be clogged even if "some red color" is seen on the rag.
Pretty sure all the '83-'11 Ranger autos take MerconV now.
Awaiting your scan.

 

Still have not had the time to get the scanner from a friend. Truck has right at about 149,500 miles. Fluid doesn’t smell burnt, is slightly discolored but not black. A tad over full, but not by much. Thanks for the welcome! This morning attempting to back into a parking space reverse was all but non existent. When I purchased the truck I was told there “was no fourth gear, and reverse is weak, you have to drive with O/D switched off” with O/D on, it basically does nothing. Revs up real high, slightly inches forward, similar to how reverse acts. With O/D off, it will shift 1-4, and in fourth it gets jerky at cruising speed. My assumption is a faulty torque converter or front pump, but I hate to jump to conclusions.

 

Welcome to the foum

Yes, you have a pressure issue, but not likely the pump
And doesn't read like torque converter either

All automatics run on ATF pressure, pressure is what holds the clutches and bands(brakes) in place
Need 120psi for forward gears and 160psi for Reverse, which is why automatics often lose Reverse first when there is a pressure issue

The pump sends all its pressure to the Valve Body
The valve body has "valves", lol, that route this pressure to the clutches and bands to select the different "gears"

At 150k miles I wouldn't expect the clutches and bands to be worn out but........................I would expect that trans fluid to have been changed recently since previous owner was having issues with this transmission and that is usually the FIRST thing people do, change fluid and filter
So while fluid is a good indicator for slipping clutches and bands(burnt smell) new fluid won't have that as much

It would probably be worth while to change/rebuild the Valve Body as that can be done in the vehicle and is not all that expensive
And draining the fluid and checking the pan for metal bits will tell you more, metal bits mean transmission needs to come out for full rebuild

A new/rebuilt valve body might cure the issue and its not a waste of money because if it doesn't cure it you need it for a rebuild in any case

You have a 4R44E transmission, its same as 4R55E or 5R44E/55E, as far as diagnoses and most parts
But if shopping for new/used transmission it needs to be a 4R44E from a 1995 to 2000 4cyl Ranger 2.3l/2.5l or Mazda B2300/2500
1994 and earlier used A4LD
2001 and up 2.3l 4cyl trans won't fit your 2.5l

 

Update on pulling codes. Got the scanner on it tonight and the only codes it is throwing are P0401 (EGR) and B1932 (SRS fault) and P1000. Would low pressure not cause some sort of warning?

 

Only certain type of OBD2 scanners can "see" transmission codes, you have to look up the model you used to see if it can read transmission codes, P0700-P0803

And no, no pressure sensors

Slow or no Reverse usually means low pressure
Forward gears can slip or "flare" with low pressure
That's about the only warning there is, because unlike an engine there is not much you can do when an automatic transmission starts to go down

 

We use a Matco Maximus lite . It is capable of reading trans codes. But thank you, was not sure if there was any sort of codes that it may possibly throw. I’ll start with the valve body. If it ends up being anything beyond we will just pull and rebuild. Thanks for the help everyone!