Ok the 03 Ranger that I just bought to restore and donate to the wolf sanctuary has a trans issue. When I shift into reverse or drive it slips it acts like its going to try to move like moves a inch then the rpms increase and it doesn't move I can rev up to redline and it won't move. Does this in drive and reverse. When I try to go to 1 it won't go to 1 it stops at 2 like there's no 1 to go to shifter is like at the end of movement hits a wall. So I can't get to 1st manually with the shifter. Now I put it in 2 and it moves as it should 2 works fine but when I go to 2 and it goes in gear its rough like when you go to 2 and give it gas it slams hard into gear.

Now knowing you can go to drive from 2 while moving I pulled out on the road in 2 and when I got up some speed shifted into drive and it went through the rest of the gears fine even went into overdrive. I've only rebuilt 1 automatic transmission the infamous Christler A604 and it was a pita so I don't know much about automatics I prefer stick. I think not sure but doesn't reverse and 1st use the same setting there's just a reverse idler gear that reverses the rotation of the mainshaft using 1st So to the auto trans experts what could be causing this and why can't I select 1st with the shifter?

Fox

 

You have a 5R44E automatic transmission, used in Rangers from 1985 to 2011, as A4LD(1985-1994), then 4R44E(1995-2000) then 5R44E(2001-2011)

You should have P R N D 2 1
Count the detents as you shift ignore the display

So from P there are 4 detents(R N D 2) then 1

If there are only 3 then yes you have a shifter problem which is actually not uncommon with Ford column shifters
Look at the cable in engine bay where it comes out of the firewall, sheath can split causing limited cable travel
There are a few parts under the dash that can loosen up, but shifter will "feel sloppy" or loose

Google: Ranger column shifter loose



Overdrive sprang(one-way clutch) is most likely the problem, in needs to hold in D or R to get engagement but coast clutch overrides that in 2nd or 1st
Thats a guess, you are there I am not, transmission shop would be best to diagnose

If it is OD sprang then that means a rebuild
With this trans you should replace Pump(use Ford model only), forward sprang and OD sprang also OD drum if out of round , and of course bands and clutches, when doing a rebuild

 

Counted detents goes from P to R N D 2 no 1 nothing seems to be binding the shifter or cable and shifter feels solid doesn't feel sloppy. Would the OD sprang cause the rough shift when put in 2? The shift feels like if it were a manual it would be like reving the engine and slamming into gear without using the clutch that's what it feels like when put in 2.

 

Can't say on the firm shift to 2nd unless the RPMs are high, are they high?

On the drivers side of transmission is the shift linkage and the DTR(digital transmission range) sensor, it tells computer what gear you have selected, so it knows what solenoids to use.
I would expect P07?? codes if this was the issue
DTR is adjustable so mark where it is now, unplug the wires and then remove it
Put shifter arm back on, see if you can now shift to 1st

If not block a tire so truck can't roll, engine off ,shift trans to Reverse, turn key off
Unhook the shift cable from transmission shift arm
Put the shifter arm back on and move it through its detents to see if 1st is back
If not problem is inside trans

If 1st is back then cable/shifter problem

 

Went for a drive down the road started in 2 when I got some speed I shifted to drive it went through the other gears fine then when I went to turn around I left it in drive come to a stop so trans should have been in 1st.I pulled out still in drive and it went ti was slipping but after it shifted to 2nd if worked fine. Don't know what this means but thought I'd post it maybe it offers another clue.

 

I asked on the hayabusa forums too someone said about solenoids failing. Could this be an issue?

 

So have you tried RonD's suggestion yet? He's trying to help you trouble shoot you problem.

You need to work on ONE problem at a time.

Once you have eliminated a linkage problem, then work on the hard shift.

 

I disconnected the shifter from the trans the trans gear selector can go to 1 counting clicks. Problem is the shifter in the cab can not go one more down where 1 would be the shifter hits the end of the cutout in the column before it would get to 1. But the trans gear selector does go to 1 just the shifter can't go down that far because of the column cutout for the shifter.

 

Sure you can replace the Valve body, separator plate and solenoids, and its not a waste of money since you would need these for the rebuild
But no I do not think you have a solenoid problem as such, no engagement in R or D points to mechanical problem, the fact it can engage in 2nd kind of confirms the OD Sprang problem

Automatics are not all that complicated but...................there are interdependent systems which makes saying "this is the problem" almost impossible
Check the codes, if its solenoid issue you will have codes

 

If the OD Sprang is the problem would it still be able to shift through the rest of the gears? I can move from 2 to D when at about 10mph and it will go through the rest of the gears. Would it still be able to shift those gears with the OD Sprang bad?

 

Yes, once you are moving, via coast clutch, it can keep moving usually and if solenoids are OK it will shift to other gears

Test info here: http://up.picr.de/30024877jv.pdf

You can't test OD sprang, but when you pull off the pan there should be some metal in the fluid from the sprang parts

 

One more quick question before I go in to the trans.PO said it did this he changed the filter and fluid and it started working for a while then stopped again.

 

I wouldn't put any weight to what a seller says about past issues, it may be correct it may not

New filter and fluid can help slipping issues but not going into gear is usually a mechanical issue unless filter was completely clogged

 

Ok if I go to U Pull It what years could I pull a trans out of its an 03?

 

2002 to 2011, if 3.0l engine then 2002 to 2008(3.0l was dropped after 2008)
must match engine size and 2WD or 4x4 which ever you have, no conversion possible

5R44E or 5R55E are model numbers not what they fit, well 5R55E was only made for 4.0l engine, but 2WD or 4x4 still applies

Like Ranger is a model Ford makes, "Ranger" doesn't tell you if its regular or extended cab, or 4cyl engine or V6 engine, or 2WD or 4x4, its a model number

 

The 03 with auto is a 2.3L its my 99 XLT 5 speed that's the 3.0L.

 

Need to get a trans from another 2002+ 2.3 duratec then. No other engine shares that bell housing. And like ron said, has to be same drive type (2×4 or 4x4) they are not interchangeable.

 

+1 to MrPoopy's info

The 2.3l Duratec engine only came in 2WD Rangers

So 5R44E from a 2002-2011 Ranger with 2.3l engine, or Mazda B2300 2002-2010, same 5R44E

 

Ok I'll rebuild the trans since I've only rebuilt 1 auto trans what should I all replace in the 5R44E? Also how do I go about the shifter? I can unhook it and the trans will go to 1st but with the shifter attached there's no more room in the cutout on the column to go where 1st would be. Can I adjust this so the shifter will go to 1st?

 

Google: ford ranger loose shifter
even though your column shifter doesn't feel loose the problem will be there, lots of videos to see whats what on the shifter
My guess is PO had a loose shifter and fixed it by getting rid of 1st shifting

In a full automatic rebuild you need soft parts, clutches, bands and seals, also hard parts, front pump(Ford brand only), new forward sprang(one-way clutch), new OD sprang, and maybe OD drum if out of round
Also new separator plate with bonded gasket
adding shift kit is popular when working on valve body

 

What will a shift kit do on a automatic? I'm a manual guy.

 

It gives the 5R44E better shifting according to people that used it, I too am a manual guy, lol

 

I've followed you for a long time and respect you as an expert. But I have used a shift kit on a 5r44e. It does nothing because the 5r44e has adaptive shift control. The computer will simply re-adjust to soften the shifts. I understand that kits like the superior shift kit do other things that may extend the life of the trans though. But do not expect a real change in performance because the computer won't allow it. It will always adapt to factory settings.

 

Good info, thanks

 

Question not related to trans. My 99 has a gauge cluster that doesn't have the tach. Will the cluster from the 03 with a tach be plug and play and everything work? Also most auto parts suppliers don't expect a home mechanic to rebuild a auto trans so do you know where I can get all the parts to rebuild the trans? Another thing how hard is it to convert a 4X2 to a 4X4?