you will be for then fine with this locker..

 

Why is this?

 

The reason I am not a fan is because when you lift a tire in the air all of the power will go to that tire and when it finally does get traction there goes you axle shaft.

 

thats how a open diff works, all the power is sent to the tire with the least traction, so if a tire is in the air it has no traction and it will spin. A L/S isnt very good for offroad because it just a multiplyer. So if a tire is off the ground you have 0 traction, so the l/s will try to multiply that to the other side. 0 times anything is still 0 so you will not get any power on the other end either.

 

Front locker will work great for you. That is what I have stock suspension and front locker (powertrax), i've wheeled hard and had no breakage, only problem i've had (after 3 years) is the power steering pump cries some times when in 4low with the 33" tires and trying to turn. But onces the stock 31's are back on and daily driving is resumed can't tell the locker is there and power steering pump works just fine. Well worth the money and now instead of gasing it to make it up a hill, I can just crawl up it will no problems.

 

The aussie just came in the mail =]

Damn this thing is tiny!!!

 

yea i know!
i got mine, and i was like, theres a locker in there??

my plans to install it tomorrow went down the drain

 

All this front-end locker talk has got me thinking about one too. Can it be installed with out having to remove a ball joint? I feel like I could easily do it if I don't have to fool with ball joints - or maybe it's more that I don't want to have to fiddle with a ball joint if I don't have to........I'm not tooled for them just yet, it's a hassle to go rent tools, etc, etc.

 

You do not have to remove a balljoint or A-arm. However, you must disconnect the upper ball joint from the knuckle (just a pinch bolt) and move the knuckle outward to remove the half shaft.

 

thats what she said...

 

It sure is and has to be to fit in the carrier. It's roughly 3" in diameter compared to the 7.5" ring gear in the picture.

 

The hardest part I thought was removing the ring gear, and that was only because I had 4:10 gears, which you should too, if you have the fx4.

 

ok guys, i have the locker in the diff, but it started raining, so the diff didn't go back in the truck,

what measurments do i need? i dont have the paper on me, im hoping someone that has done it will chime in on this..

aussie locker btw

 

You need the instructions that came with the locker. It is just too involved to explain here.

 

When you pull the carrier, do you need to reset the gear backlash and such?

 

gumby claims he has never messed with it and has been completely fine, this is with several different axles.

i trust him.

 

hmmm good to know!

 

as long as everything you take out goes back in the same way your pattern and measurements should not change. just make sure to not mix up shims or drop them or lose them as that will mess up your numbers.

 

and that would suck..

 

no shims came out

crapp i dont wanna measure this crap but i need to :( i want to test it before it gets dark :p

 

exactly.
when doin work for other people, i commonly double check the pattern and backlash after re-installation, jus to be sure. but like beard said, for a simple carrier removal/swap, i have never seen one be out of spec when reinstalled.

 

im lovin mine...

i need a better, day time video.

 

I think he was talking about measurements within the locker itself, not the R&P setup. According to the manufacturer, there are some installed clearances that need to be measured/confirmed before using the Aussie locker.

 

Aussie Aussie Aussie! Oi oi oi!

 

so, hypothetically, when would i know if i left something out?

i ran it yesterday for an hr and a half and had no problems.. so im guessing i did my first locker correctly lol