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Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 09-21-2010
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Clutch

How many miles should a clutch last in a truck? Truck is well taken care of, not beat. Just curious. Also can a clutch be adjusted? Thanx
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2010
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70 to 100k is not uncommon if driven right. And no the clutch is not adjustable if your's is slipping the only cure is replacement..
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Old 09-21-2010
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Thanx 87, ok...as you probably already know, I'm no motorhead..I'm a Chef..lol..but how difficult would it be for a novice like me to replace a clutch...I mean unfortunatly this is not Beef Bourguignon.lol..but on a scale of diffulculty...you know what I mean.
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Old 09-21-2010
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This is pulled from ehow.com just ask if any of this does not make any sence.
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions.Things You'll Need:
Clutch kit (includes clutch disk and pressure plate)
Clutch-alignment tool (if not included in clutch kit)
Screwdriver
Metric wrench set
Jack

It does not say this but disconect your batt before getting started.

Remove the Old Clutch
1.1
Remove the exterior parts, including the floor shifter inside the cab of your Ranger.

2.2
Disconnect the exhaust pipe. Note i did not have to do this on my ranger. I think this is only for the V6.

3.3
Remove the interior parts--the parts under the hood. This includes the starter, which is attached to the transmission bell-housing.

4.4
Disconnect the drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder.

5.5
Use a jack to raise one side of your truck.

6.6
Using a metric socket set, undo the transmission cross-member and bolts, which will allow you to remove the transmission from your Ranger.

7.7
Remove the pressure plate and the worn clutch disk.

8.8
Inspect the clutch flywheel. If the flywheel shows significant amounts of wear or is damaged in any way, you should replace it.

Install the New Clutch
9.1
Install your new clutch disk and pressure plate using a clutch-alignment tool.

10.2
Put the transmission back into your Ranger, and reconnect the cross-member and all related bolts.

11.3
Reconnect all interior parts under the hood, including the starter, drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder. Make sure you bleed the slave cylinder when you reconnect the hose.

12.4
Reconnect the exhaust pipe and re-install the shifter inside the cab.

13.5
Drive your Ranger slowly in a controlled environment, such as a parking lot, to make sure the new clutch is installed properly and is in good working condition.

Take things EASY for 500 miles to allow the new clutch a proper breakin time.
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  #5  
Old 09-21-2010
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Thats a good start there 87, thanx
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Old 09-21-2010
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No problem man! Good luck.
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Old 09-21-2010
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One MAJOR omission :
The slave cylinder also should be replaced.
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Old 09-21-2010
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clutches are not adjustable PER SAY!! if you have a SELF adjusting clutch then yes....also depends on difficulty if you have a fork and bearing set up or a hydraulic clutch...look under there towards front of tranny on drivers side and see if you have two hard lines goin into the side of tranny through a big hole then its hydraulic.....there not really much harder to do its just gettin them bled out properly that can be the hard part....if it is hydraulic theres a HOW TO vid on youtube....
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Old 09-22-2010
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Good thread.

Anything else that "should/could" be done at the same time as clutch?
*why slave cylinder?
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Old 09-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inspector View Post
Good thread.

Anything else that "should/could" be done at the same time as clutch?
*why slave cylinder?
well its kinda like a headlight bulb they should last for a few yrs but when one burns out you might as well replace both...same as this when you replace clutch you might as well have flywheel turned and replace the rear main seal while its all out and the slave cylinder...it would suck if a few mnths after the rear main started leaking or slave or master quit on ya...so might as well replace it all while its out and easily accesable!!
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hozII View Post
clutches are not adjustable PER SAY!! if you have a SELF adjusting clutch then yes....also depends on difficulty if you have a fork and bearing set up or a hydraulic clutch...look under there towards front of tranny on drivers side and see if you have two hard lines goin into the side of tranny through a big hole then its hydraulic.....there not really much harder to do its just gettin them bled out properly that can be the hard part....if it is hydraulic theres a HOW TO vid on youtube....
Bleeding the clutch is easy all you have to do is find a hose that will fit over the nipple on the bleeder screw and dip the other end into a bottle of brake fluid loosen the bleeder screw a couple of turns until you see fluid going down the tube. Pump your clutch peddle a few times let sit for 10 - 20 mins tighten the bleeder screw and drive away.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
One MAJOR omission :
The slave cylinder also should be replaced.
Good one i forgot about that! Also while the system is apart change the clutch fluid!
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  #12  
Old 10-27-2010
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I have a '96 ranger that my dad bought brand new in '96. In '98 I learned to drive on it. That clutch lasted until 70k miles. My dad later gave it to me and I still have it with 190k on the clock. That 2nd clutch still works great. So you should be able to get well over 100k per clutch if driven properly.
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  #13  
Old 10-28-2010
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My truck has 115k miles on the original clutch, still no slippage, slave feels like its starting to go so i'll replace everything once something dies. Buddy of mine has 150k miles on his tempo with the original clutch.
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2010
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125k on my clutch. I learned how to drive on it and I wore it out pretty bad. The slave was on it's last legs though. My buddy finally killed it one day in a parking lot.

Minus the slave I coulda pulled another 15k outta that clutch easy.
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