Clutch problem when hot
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 493
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From: Walworth, NY
Be aware of the exhaust bolts from hell.....you have to remove the y pipe and it can be a HUGE PITA!
My 01 I wound up breaking the studs, took about 3hrs to torch them out.
Got smart on the 04 and heated the nuts first, had no problems.
Did a 93 a week ago and it was a NIGHTMARE! Nothing was getting the nuts/studs out, so I wound up breaking them. Had to torch/plasma a new hole in the manifold to get bolts in. Not a fun job....
My 01 I wound up breaking the studs, took about 3hrs to torch them out.
Got smart on the 04 and heated the nuts first, had no problems.
Did a 93 a week ago and it was a NIGHTMARE! Nothing was getting the nuts/studs out, so I wound up breaking them. Had to torch/plasma a new hole in the manifold to get bolts in. Not a fun job....
hmmm. i wonder what gears i have now then and how much it would cost to get me some better ones.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2
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From: Merida
The same symptons for my 97 ford ranger xlt extracab 2WD
Hi pcollins , I was follow the answers in the post, and I would like to know if you fix the problem. As the title says i have the same problem with my truck. 15 min truck cold working well , after that the problem with the shift begin. I've have already changed the clutch kit including slave cylynder. After one month the problem begin again , then I replace the Master cylynder , ther was not any improvement . when I bleed the system there was many air on it. I have to mention that the original tranny was replaced for a second hand one , 6 months before. I would like to known where is the problem , and if is related with the second hand tranny?
Thanks in advance
OM
Thanks in advance
OM
I did a quick search for this but no results, so i'll ask here. Its a 97 ford ranger XLT w/M5OD tranny. 4x4
Basically, we replaced the slave last year and throwout bearing. At one point, the system was fully bled with air (yea, we were a bit stupid at that time). My problem is, when the truck is cold (first 15-20 mins of driving) it shifts fine, and the clutch spins down fine. once it gets hot, after a longer drive, or if i'm shifting alot, it won't fully disengage. and this is only when its hot.
could this be a master/slave problem? i have bled the living **** out of the system, so i don't see how there is air. i even fought getting the master out and in for 4 hours to bench bleed it (something i'll let the dealer replace if i have to). at the moment i just bought a full clutch kit, comes with plate, clutch disc, pilot, throwout bearing, and a slave cylinder. before i tear this all apart, is there anything that could be an issue? i really don't see how the slave could be bad, its only a year old. is it worth mentioning that the clutch pretty much engages right off the floor? i'm stumped with this one....thanks for any help!!!
on a side note, this is the second ranger forum i'm on, and i hope to be as active on this one as the other. I'll never own another ranger (not big enough) but i do like the one i have now, as its all i can afford.
Basically, we replaced the slave last year and throwout bearing. At one point, the system was fully bled with air (yea, we were a bit stupid at that time). My problem is, when the truck is cold (first 15-20 mins of driving) it shifts fine, and the clutch spins down fine. once it gets hot, after a longer drive, or if i'm shifting alot, it won't fully disengage. and this is only when its hot.
could this be a master/slave problem? i have bled the living **** out of the system, so i don't see how there is air. i even fought getting the master out and in for 4 hours to bench bleed it (something i'll let the dealer replace if i have to). at the moment i just bought a full clutch kit, comes with plate, clutch disc, pilot, throwout bearing, and a slave cylinder. before i tear this all apart, is there anything that could be an issue? i really don't see how the slave could be bad, its only a year old. is it worth mentioning that the clutch pretty much engages right off the floor? i'm stumped with this one....thanks for any help!!!
on a side note, this is the second ranger forum i'm on, and i hope to be as active on this one as the other. I'll never own another ranger (not big enough) but i do like the one i have now, as its all i can afford.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 92
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From: stockton ca
Anyone else bite the bullet and buy an oem slave? I got about 40,000 out of the one from my ebay kit before I was bleeding it everyday, eventually it crapped out altogether (That was fun getting home). I figured I had the best luck w/ the stock slave, so I replaced the master and the slave w/ oem, still going strong 6 months later and Ive yet to bleed it so far. Might save money short term w/ a cheap kit, but do you want to drop the trans every year? I sure as hell dont.
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Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 493
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From: Walworth, NY
I have a parts master slave in there right now, been in there over a year. Knock on wood. Its really hit or miss with these things. If it happens again tho then yes, i'll be going with an OEM one, as the original slave lasted 130k miles.
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 59
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From: Ontario
if you machine the flywheel it is a good idea to install a flywheel spacer to compensate for the material removed.
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