Hey guys

I'm replacing the clutch in my 2011 2.3 RWD due to slave cylinder failure. The local supplier has a deal on a non-self adjusting kit with slave cylinder for $140. My truck has a self adjusting pressure plate (unsure if it's the original clutch). Do I have to replace this with a non-self adjusting kit or can I use a conventional pressure plate? Price difference is a little over $100.

While not financially limited by $100, this truck is my daily beater - minimal operating costs are my main objective with it.

Thanks

 

You need to use the self adjusting type, if you went with the non-self adjusting type, then your clutch pedal would eventually run out of travel as the clutch wore down.

 

Did earlier models come with the non-self adjusting type? Just wondering why they would sell this one

 

Possibly, I'm not too sure about earlier trucks, I do know that some here have replaced theirs with the wrong type and down the road they run into problems.
It's safe to assume that before the LUK clutch was developed, that there is lots of stock a round from the old design that just happens to fit a truck that requires the self adjusting type.
The picture shows what the self adjusting type looks like with the yellow springs.

 

Just to close the loop - I replaced the OE self adjusting clutch with a conventional non self adjusting pressure plate el cheapo eBay kit. No issues. Clutch picks up at the very bottom of the pedal stroke now as expected, so make sure you bleed the system perfectly - took me at least 3 tries in and out of the truck.

In hindsight I should have just replaced the friction disc alone and reused the OE pressure plate since I was trying to be as cheap as possible. Next time if there is one, no idea what brand slave cylinder they sent me so there might be...

 

You won't have issues at first, but as the clutch disc wears down, there is nothing to take up the slack as it wears, so now the only way to deal with the adjustment is to re-bleed the system.
In the old days one could adjust the linkage in the pedal travel, and/or master cylinder travel, but not in this system, it's supposed to be adjusted automatically in the pressure plate.

 

You would have had to use a hydraulic press or jack to reset self adjusting(SAC) pressure plate back to its "new" location, it can be done
If you put in a new disc without doing that it wouldn't disengage, ever

SAC plate moves closer to the flywheel as disc wears down, that's the self adjusting part

But good work, yes the non-SAC does work fine, but very close to the floor to disengage, then it will move farther and farther up the pedal travel as disc wears down, until it starts to slip
SAC keeps disengage/engage at the same spot in pedal travel through out the life of the disc

Never seen anything that would make me think one way is better than the other, as far as disc wearing out

 

For next time John, or if someone else runs inti this thread.
The LUK clutch kit is 111.79.
Also looked at your personal info, you're born in 1920, very imoressive ! good for you !
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1446677&jsn=12
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993

 

I run a conventional clutch, absolutely no issues in over 85k. The OE clutch was fine when I tore the truck down at 150k, but due to a slave cylinder failure, I wasn't going to chance contamination.

If you have to "re-bleed" a hydraulic clutch to get it to properly disengage, then it wasn't fully bled the first time around. That would lead to suggest it is being introduced to air.

I would only suggest flushing the fluid out once every few years, but that is more for brake fluid hydroscopic properties, and less on the clutch system itself.